Whistler village is a tourist destination in its own right, more cosmopolitan than quaint. A mix of locals, tourists, and expats frequent Whistler. Families experience snow for the first time, party animals enjoy the night scene, and wine connoisseurs revel in high end dining. In short, there’s something for everyone. 

Our carefully curated travel guide has been loving put together after several seasons skiing in Whistler, along with frequent trips to this all-season getaway just 1.5 hours from Vancouver. Enjoy our favourite places to eat vegetarian and vegan, stay and play!

Skiing!

Skiing in Whistler is awesome. With over 200 runs and 8,171 acres of terrain you will not get bored. As both a beginner and intermediate skier we fully enjoyed the slopes, views and variety of runs. The gondola ride up is meditative; trees capped in thick layers of icing sugar snow give way to rocky outcrops and abstract white slopes. Skiing down feels both exhilarating and relaxing, gently gliding or taking more challenging runs, swooping between trees or weaving across wide open terrain.

Umbrella Bar

The Umbrella Bar is my favourite place for a drink with a view in Whistler. It’s a great place to be after a day of skiing, but don’t feel you can’t participate if hitting the slopes was not for you. Located halfway up Whistler Blackcomb Mountain next to the Roundhouse Lodge you can take the Whistler Village Gondola up (which is a must do anyways for the views), and perch yourself on the edge of world, 6000 feet up.

Vodka Ice Bar

Ever since I first read about the concept of a Vodka Ice Bar in a travel magazine it’s been something I wanted to do, so I was so excited the first time we got to do this! The Vodka Ice Bar is situated in Bearfoot Bistro restaurant, but you can book vodka experiences separately (although the restaurant is really good as well). First of all you are given a big fluffy parka complete with hood to keep you comfortable in the subzero ice room. The room is kept at -32 degrees which takes out any bite from the vodka. You get to choose four different vodkas to sample and the whole experience is very cool! You can also arrange to sabre champagnes in the wine cellar if that’s more to your liking.

Scandinave Spa

I can’t believe it took us so long to go to the Scandinave Spa. We came with friends and had such a great time but it would be just as enjoyable as a solo experience. This tranquil setting is made up of hot and cold pools, icy waterfalls, hot saunas, and several relaxation rooms with hammocks, lounge chairs and amazing views. It was so relaxing sitting in a cozy robe, watching the tops of the evergreen trees sway after soaking in the hot pools. A few things to note – It can get quite busy here, but if you have extended health benefits you can make a reservation with an RMT masseuse and skip the wait. Otherwise plan for it to take a little time to get in to the pools only. The spa is restricted to no talking, no phone, and 19+ yrs, which only adds to the peaceful vibe.

Lost Lake

Lost Lake is gorgeous in both the Summer and Winter. In the summer the docks are filled with people sunbathing and swimming. In the winter it’s perfect for a brisk walk and chance to get in tune with nature. Ask your hotel if there is a shuttle service and you might be able to get a ride.

Peak to Peak Gondola

The Peak to Peak Gondola stretches 3.03 km, spanning from Whistler Mountain to Blackcomb Mountain. When it was first built the gondola held the record for the longest continuous lift, now it remains the highest at 436 meters above the ground. If you’re patient, wait for the glass bottomed gondola for even better views of the valley below…way down below.

More Ways to Have Fun:

• Mountain climb on the Via Ferrata Tour
• Zip line through the old growth forests
• Go Mountain Biking during the summer 
• Drive a luxury supercar up the Sea to Sky highway
• During the summer visit the 130-metre Cloudraker Skybridge
• The Vallea Lumina multi media night walk 
• Annual Wanderlust Yoga Festival (On pause 2020, hopefully to return 2021)

Vegan and Vegetarian Dining

What would a travel food blog be without a few recommendations for dining?

Whistler Village

• Naked Sprout | Healthy organic wraps, bowls, and juices
• Green Moustache | Creative, nourishing and plant-based juices, meals and deserts.
• Alta Bistro | Fine dining, very vegan friendly with options rotating on the menu
• Tandoori Grill | Indian curries to warm you up
• Bearfoot Bistro | Fine dining, happy to accommodate vegans
• Harajuku | Offers vegan ramen and sushi rolls
• La Cantina | Selection of veggie tacos
• Mallard Lounge | Located in the Fairmont Hotel in the Upper Village, the Mallard Lounge has a great ambience, large windows, fireplaces, live music and an awesome vegetarian menu. From vegetarian pates with crispy lentils and taro root chips to fried artichoke sandwiches with eggplant bacon, it’s hard to choose what to order. The cocktails are fabulous as well – A Duck in the Fog comes in a little lantern carrier and when you open the door smoke swirls out from around the cocktail, revealing your beverage and making you the envy of all the other tables.
• La Bocca – A selection of Pastas, Pizzas and appies such as Arachini balls in the heart of the village. A mix of vegetarian and non-vegetarian dining.
• La Brasserie – Offers vegetarian brunch options and vegetarian poutin among their mixed menu, also located long the Village stroll next to La Bocca. Good for people watching.

Creekside

• BReD | Organic vegan breads and pizza doughs (to make at home – perfect for your airbnb!)
• Creekbread | Pizza place with a vegetarian and vegan options.
• Aura | Go for the Meatless Monday three-course vegan menu, with wine pairing available
• Raven’s Nest | Vegetarian restaurant located at the top of Creekside Gondola

Function Junction

• The Velvet Underground Cafe | A new local favourite for vegetarian
• Functional Pie | Serving vegan pizza with sausage and mozzarella!
• Green Moustache | Second location, vegetarian juices and nourishing meals.

Accommodation

Choose a hotel in Whistler’s Upper Village or in the main Village, both close to gondolas and a 10 min walk apart. Otherwise find an airbnb or rental for a cozier experience.

• Fairmont Chateau Whistler | A luxurious option in the Upper Village. The Mallard lounge is always good for a drink by the fire with live music in the evenings.
• Four Seasons | This hotel has the best pool and jacuzzis in my opinion.
• The Westin Resort and Spa | Located in a central location beside the gondolas, the hotel’s ski valet is a real treat – bringing your skis and boots right onto the slopes!

Getting There

From downtown Vancouver it’s a very scenic 1.5-2hr drive along the Sea to Sky highway. Stop along the way at Porteau Cove, Shannon Falls, The Chief, or Alice Lake to enjoy the mountain scenery.

In the summer arrive in style and take the floatplane from downtown Vancouver harbour, landing in Green Lake, just 3 km north of Whistler. 

Whistler draws many visitors year round as a world-class ski resort, with a variety of all-season attractions. Whether you are coming to ski, mountain bike, pamper yourself, or dine at gourmet restaurants, Whistler offers fantastic memory making experiences. Welcome to our corner of winter paradise.

This vegetarian travel guide for Banff and Lake Louise outlines our favourite places to eat, stay, shop and explore. Scroll down for all the details and we hope this can be a great resource for you as you plan your travels. 

Our first visit was in early spring, and the evergreen trees lining the drive of the Fairmont Banff Springs were heavy with snow. The valet who came to greet us were smartly dressed in thick wool coats. From high in our room we overlooked the river and snowcapped mountains, and the warm pools beckoned us to join the merrymakers soaking their muscles and sharing stories of hiking canyons, skiing, and climbing the nearby mountains.

• Fairmont Banff Springs | Staying at the Fairmont Banff Springs is like staying in a museum. The “castle in the sky” first opened its doors in 1888, welcoming guests from around the world including Marilyn Monroe and Winston Churchill. The hotel boasts a onsite spa with hot pools, an elegant lobby, sweeping mountain views, and multiple dining outlets to satisfy your thirst and hunger. Only a short walk into town (or catch the hotel’s car service), you can also hire snow boots, among other winter equipment, to walk the nearby trails along the Bow River.

View from the Royal Penthouse Suite

• The Fairmont Lake Louise | Lake Louise is located within the Banff National Park, less than an hour drive from the town of Banff. I’ve been told its a lovely experience to book a room at the Fairmont Lake Louise for the weekend, curl up in one of the bay windows with a book, and look out over the lake. We can attest to the wonderful feeling as you sit in the Lakeview Lounge enjoying a glass of wine, musing about how pretty the scenery is. There is excitement in the air, as if each guest knows they’ve found a special place on earth.  

Where to Eat – Vegan & Vegetarian

BANFF

• Nourish | Hands down, our favourite vegetarian spot in Banff is Nourish. Good cocktails, a large selection of bitters and caesars made with in-house worcestershire sauce, great daily specials, and vegan ‘Glow Food‘ cheese made right here in Banff. This cozy spot is decorated with Edison style light bulbs, paper mâché, projection art and local paintings. Our recommendation would be to start with the Nachos, voted best Nachos since 2016, overflowing with 29 ingredients and accompanied by a strawberry salsa. The ravioli makes an excellent main to follow. After chatting with the bartender he shared with us his favourite part of Banff was the people.

Everyone’s a similar age group and you meet a lot of international travellers and interesting people.

Nourish Restaurant

• Wild Flour Bakery | Proudly local, Wild Flour is a great organic cafe that offers vegan sandwiches and a selection of freshly baked treats straight out of their stone hearth oven.
• Stock | Located within the Fairmont Banff Spring lobby, Stock is a good option for grab and go or a casual sit down meal. Choose from warming soups, avo toasts, exotic lattes, and fresh pastries. Check out the futuristic display fridge with fresh sprouts and greens, and challenge your mate to a game of giant scrabble. 

Stock at the Fairmont Banff Springs

• Three Ravens | A highly rated fine dining restaurant in Banff with modern decor and great views which offers a selection of vegan and vegetarian options, if you can look past the otherwise mainly meat and fish based offerings.
• Sky Bistro | More for the view than the vegetarian selection, though they do have a few vegetarian dishes to choose from, Sky Bistro is a pretty special place for date night at the top of the mountain with a romantic gondola ride to get there.
• Juniper Bistro | Another spot with a wonderful view and some vegetarian/vegan options available.

LAKE LOUISE

• Fairmont Lake Louise – Lakeview Lounge | Stunning views from cozy plush chairs or sit outside on the patio on a sunny day, this is the spot to enjoy a glass of wine take in all the beauty of Lake Louise.
• Ice Bar | For a novel experience during the winter Ice Magic Festival order a drink from the Fairmont’s open air ice bar and watch the hockey players skate around the lake.

Lakeview Lounge at Fairmont Lake Louise

Lake Louise frozen over during the winter

• Rocky Mountain Soap Company | Gorgeous collection of soaps and other skin care products. Choose a box and fill it with four of your favourite handmade soaps for great gifts all year long.
• Branches Marketplace | Just a super cute little shop with local and handmade items to peruse.
• Amaryllis Crystal Garden | The place in Banff for all your precious stones and crystals, take a wander and see which stones you are drawn to. This is one of the reasons you gotta pack light!
• Banff Tea Company | Local store selling loose leaf tea with delicious blends like Mama Bear and Banff Trail Mix.

Get Out & Explore!

• Ambraham Lake | Abraham lake is a bit of a drive from Banff (2 hours and 15 min) and off the beaten track, but this is a special sight which draws photographers from far and wide. Look to go in February or March when the lake freezes over and giant bubbles are trapped in the ice creating a gorgeous winter scene. 
• Johnston Canyon Hike | A popular hike near Banff that runs through the canyon, along the river, up to multiple waterfalls and lookout points. Gets very busy with tour buses so plan your trip accordingly.
• The Fairmont Banff Springs Golf Course | A challenging course with gorgeous mountain scenery and exceptional views of the hotel, if you’re lucky you might see some elk sighting during your round.
• Skiing at Sunshine Village, Lake Louise Ski Resort, and Mt. Norquay | Our favourite mountain was Sunshine Village for a day of skiing in the Rockies, and Lake Louise offered steeper slopes for more of a challenge. 
• Banff Upper Hot Springs | Just the ticket for a soak after a day of hiking, skiing, rock climbing and river rafting, or let’s be honest… even after a day lounging around your hotel in a robe. 

Fairmont Banff Springs Golf Course

Elk Sighting in the springtime 

The iconic champagne houses, including Veuve Clicquot, Tattinger, and Pommery, are situated in the town of Reims. Ruinart is the oldest of the champagne houses, established in 1729, and is known for its blanc de blanc, a pure blend of Chardonnay grapes.

We decided to catch the train in the morning and visit two champagne houses. The trip was easy, we settled into our pre-assigned seats and soon were swaying along the tracks as the train sped through golden fields and open skies.

Once we pulled up to the train station I had read how important it was to quickly get in line at the taxi line up just outside the train station doors. It was true. There was a long line up already when we arrived.

Surrounded by tall stone walls, we pulled into the driveway of Maison Ruinart and were greeted by a friendly guard. All guests booked on a tour have their name on the list, no walk-ins allowed! Luckily, due to our advanced planning, we were invited to enter the gates and join a few fellow couples in the salon, elegantly decorated with renaissance paintings and some comfortable plush sofas.

Our chic french guide greeted us and started our visit by speaking about the history of Ruinart, pointing out the portraits of the founders. It was after Louis XV issued a decree allowing champagne to be distributed by bottles, and not just barrels, that Ruinart’s champagne gained popularity as business gifts to the cloth buyers, distributed through Dom Ruinart’s brother’s network as a cloth merchant.

Our first stop was a room filled with art – a modern tablescape with melting chandeliers by Dutch artist Maarten Baas; one of France’s earliest advertising posters with a woman provocatively showing off her shoulder by Czech illustrator Alphons Mucha; a replica of Louis XV’s commissioned “Le Déjeuner d’Huîtres” oil painting depicting an oyster feast in full swing with many of Ruinart’s recognizable round shaped champagne bottles.

This painting happens to be the first known piece of art to showcase champagne – can you look carefully and figure how they knew it was champagne featured at the party?

Finally someone in our group noticed the cork flying over the table, a telltale sign of the bubbles pressurized into the wine.

Throughout the entire tour our guide’s descriptions were interesting, engaging and thought provoking… she really knew her craft!

At this stage our guide offered the group a warm blanket as the cellars – les crayères – would be quite cold once we dropped 38 feet below ground, to an even temperature of 11-degrees Celsius. It was this attention to detail that really elevated the experience and made us feel taken care of and appreciative of the luxury in this world prestigious champagne house.

Down the steps we went into the cool dark tunnels, lit with a warm glow along the stairwell. Once we reached the lower level we could see through a window into the production facility as they corked each bottle.

Champagne has a two part fermentation process. Once the first fermentation is complete the neck of the bottle is frozen to create an ice plug, trapping the collected lees sediment. The plug is popped out before quickly re-corking the bottle for a second ferment to create those beautiful fine bubbles.

We were led through the dark halls of the cellars where rows and rows of champagne bottles were gently resting. A quiet setting with dim lighting is just what the champagne needs to mature into its wonderful flavor. As we walked deeper into the caves the bottles of champagne grew larger, and the rows grew deeper, grouped by various cuvée.

In one of the main cathedral-like chambers, the champagne bottles rest at an angle in large wooden trestles shapes like an M, where they are rotated or ‘remuaged’ a quarter turn, 2-3 times a day, to help the lees particles slowly make their way into the neck of the bottle. Madame Veuve Clicquot is credited with inventing the riddling rack. Premium cuvée continue to be rotated by hand.

The history of the cellars is fascinating. Originally old chalk quarries, the walls and large dome shaped rooms are all chiseled by hand. During World War I the main Ruinart house was tragically destroyed and so the offices were moved into the cellars, creating an underground bomb shelter where work could continue.

France’s champagne houses have a history of strong women entrepreneurs. In 1919 André Ruinart passed away leaving his widow Charlotte to run the estate. This is a similar tale to that of Madam Veuve Clicquot who had a huge influence on establishing and innovation in the champagne industry (and some say was rumored to have murdered her husband!). There must have been huge competition and drama between the champagne houses, this setting would make an exciting novel I’d like to read.

Finally we emerged into the sunlight and walked back across the grounds taking in the vast and elegant building and its perfectly manicured landscape. We re-gathered in the salon to savor some of the delicate champagne that had been resting in the caves just days prior..

Our host presented us with a choice of blanc de blanc or rosé, with two cuvées to sample. As we sipped, she joined us and described the flavor profiles, taking us through what to look for on the pallet and the subtle differences.

The blanc de blanc is Ruinart’s signature champagne, made entirely from Chardonnay grapes. It glows with a pale golden yellow color and very fine bubbles. The rosé, created since the 18th century, blends Chardonay with the addition of Pinot Noir.

This was a lovely way to experience the champagnes and we discussed as a group what we thought of each one, which we preferred, and where everyones’ travels had taken them. Finally our tour was complete and we couldn’t resist stopping into the store to bring a few bottles home with us, creating a very special memory of our visit to the one and only champagne region.

Sails & Spices Travel Tips

• Getting Around – When arriving at the train station be prepared for a long line up at the taxi stand. We took a taxi to get around and once we were done our tours, called one from the champagne house to get back into the town square where the train station was.
• Lunch – The champagne houses can be quite far apart and it’s a bit of a walk along the main road to get from place to place. We decided to book two tastings and in between it was a challenge finding somewhere for lunch. Next time I would pack a picnic if there isn’t ample time to find a restaurant. Note the main town square has lots of restaurants (although not a ton of vegetarian or vegan options – we settled for a veggie burger).
• Dress – It does get chilly down in the caves and there is a fair bit of walking, so dress accordingly for your comfort.
• Language – We took the tour in French and probably understood 80% of it, but  being immersed in the French language added to the atmosphere and we felt we probably got a better tour in the guide’s native language.
• Book in advance! It’s no surprise the tours book up quickly especially in the summer time. We simply booked online.

Before I arranged this trip I had no idea the champagne region was so close to Paris. It turned out to be a very easy day trip from Paris. We were back in time for dinner and were thrilled to have experienced the Champagne region of France. What an experience!

Enjoying Your Champagne

• Serving – Serve your Champagne cold, between  7 to 10 °C / 45 to 50 °F. Chill your bottle in a bucket of water and ice for 30 minutes, or take your champagne out of a cold fridge for ~10 minutes before serving.
• Storing – For long term storage, champagne prefers a cool and dark location, with a consistent temperature of approximately 55 deg-F . Lay your bottles on their side so the cork doesn’t dry out. Only store your champagne for up to a couple days in a fridge before serving, or chill with ice.
• Pairings – Champagne pairs beautifully with most lighter meals. Brie cheese, strawberries and almonds are all classic pairings. Rich, buttery and salty foods will contrast nicely with the champagne’s light bubbles. Try our Spring Asparagus Risotto to enjoy with your next bottle.
• If you are looking to throw a cheese a wine party – don’t miss our comprehensive guide to The Ultimate Cheese and Wine Pairing Party. 

If you love wine, we would highly recommend a visit to the Champagne region, just outside of Paris.

Isle of Skye

When we received the invitation to visit Scotland for a dear friend’s wedding, we couldn’t resist the adventure. We were eager to explore stone castles and cobblestone streets and photograph scenic landscapes. The idea of little local pubs filled with fine scotches and live bands playing in front of the wood fire sounded like a perfect getaway. 

Sandy Bell’s In Edinburgh

Pretty soon we had plans to start in Edinburgh and drive through the countryside to Isle of Skye, where we stayed on a local sheep croft. To conclude the trip we reunited with our friends for a traditional Scottish wedding complete with kilts and Cèilidh dancing, close to St. Andrews – home of the original golf course.

Our Scotland travel guide is a collection of our best research, personal experiences, and referrals for places to see, stay and eat (vegetarian!) covering Edinburgh to Isle of Skye.

Scotland’s incredible countryside had us pulling over every 5 minutes wanting to take another photograph. Visiting in October gave us gorgeous tones of gold and orange and we even spotted a beautiful buck with large antlers walking peacefully by the marsh. To our delight we also counted many hairy cows who were happy to pose for photographs.

The Highlights

• Edinburgh | Spend a few days in the capital, exploring one of Europe’s oldest cities. > VIEW THE CITY GUIDE 
• Stirling & Callander | Two nice options for a quick stop, walk around, and refuel at a cafe.
• Glen Coe | Great hiking trails combined with charming B&Bs and pubs made this small town a great overnight destination.
• Eilean Donan Castle | The views of this picturesque castle can easily be enjoyed from the warmth of your dry car in the parking lot.
• Isle of Skye | Dramatic landscapes on this remote island set the stage for smokey whiskeys, stunning photography and moody scenery. The ultimate destination! > VIEW THE CITY GUIDE

On the Road – Points of Interest

Stirling & Callendar

Stirling is nice for quick stop after an hour of driving on the way to Glen Coe from Edinburgh. Small shops and cafes offer an opportunity to refill before the second leg of the journey. Stirling’s attractions include monuments, castles, as well as the site of the 1297 Battle of Stirling Bridge. If it’s not too early for a tipple of whisky, stop in at the Deanston Distillery.

Callendar is another quaint town that makes a pleasant stop along the drive with a few gift shops and nearby hiking trails.

Glen Coe

We chose Glen Coe as our place to spend the night on the way to Isle of Skye. Although it is possible to drive straight from Edinburgh to Isle Of Skye, it’s usually a nicer journey when you can go slow.

Stay:
Heather Lea Bed and Breakfast
RiverBeds Luxury Wee Lodges

Eat:
The Boots Bar, The Clachaig Inn

Glen Coe is a tiny little town nestled in the valley of several big mountains. By far our highlight was the vegetarian friendly pub, The Boots Bar, that our B&B recommended to us.

The Boots Bar appeared in our headlights after driving a few minutes down a dark and windy road. We dashed in from the wet and cold and were welcomed with a hot roaring fire, live music, and friendly locals hanging out with their dogs while enjoying dinner and playing pool. The menu include 4-5 veggie options, as well as local beer, fruit wines and ciders. Clachaig Inn also offers special whisky Master Classes if you decide to stay longer.

The Boots Bar, Glen Coe

Eilean Donan Castle

Eilean Donan Castle makes a pretty stop that’s easy to get to along the drive to Isle of Skye. The Castle is surrounded by a beautiful lake and mountains, and the scene changes depending on the tides and the clouds.

Isle of Skye 

And after you make the windy drive past a million beautiful sights, bridges, lakes and waterfalls, you finally get to Isle of Skye, where everything has a little bit of that special glow. VIEW THE CITY GUIDE

What are your plans for visiting Scotland? If we were to change anything we probably would have spent more time in Isle of Skye since there is so much to explore and it takes a while to get there. Let us know your experiences!

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Victoria Street, Edinburgh

A picturesque city with plenty of history, Edinburgh makes a great jumping off point to start your trip to Scotland. While in the capital, visit the castles and monuments, explore the Royal Mile in Old Town, and make New Town your destination for shopping and cocktails.

Victoria Street, Edinburgh

Edinburgh Castle

Visit:

• Castlehill | The oldest part of Edinburgh is Castlehill, located on the upper side of the Royal Mile. The wide cobblestoned street leads right up to the castle, between shops selling woolen scarves and bag pipers dressed in tartan.
• Edinburgh Castle | The Castle is one of Edinburgh’s most popular sites, if you are interested in touring the grounds and taking a peek at Scotland’s crown jewels, get there for 9:30 when it opens, or the bell ringing at 1:00pm. Even just walking right up to the castle along the Royal Mile, and crossing the draw bridge is a great way to experience the city.
• Arthur’s seat | Hiking up to Arthur’s seat will give you panoramic views, especially during sunrise.
• National Monument | This is Scotland’s monument to fallen soldiers, set high on Calton Hill with great views and greek inspired structures.
• Victoria Street | A colourful and highly photographed street with interesting shops in the historic Old Town.
• Scott Monument | A striking Victorian Gothic monument, found in the Princes Street Garden. Climb up the narrow curved stairs in the tower for great views of the city.

Castlehill

The view of the Edinburgh Castle, Balmoral clock tower, and Scott Monument from the National Monument hill.

Vegetarian Eats & Drinks:

• Start your day with breakfast at Urban Angle, a small organic cafe, or Valvona Crolla for yummy italian pastries.
• We came across Sandy Bell’s while we were walking down Candlemaker Row, and stayed for the friendly vibe and selection of beers and ciders on tap. The Scottish folk band that was playing made the whole experience.
• For a tasty treat visit The Baked Potato Shop in Old Edinburgh serving vegetarian baked potatoes, soups and salads.
• Hula juice bar and gallery is a good stop to get your vitamins for the day.
• For an excellent plant-based dinner visit David Bann and enjoy innovative vegetarian and vegan dining.
• Great for picnics, I.J Mellis Cheesemonger is a small shop on Victoria Street with a wide array of Scottish Cheeses.

I.J Mellis Cheesemonger

Sandy Bell’s

Stay:
The Glass House
Sheraton Grand Hotel & Spa

The Glass house is a beautiful boutique hotel built up from an old church, with an outdoor rooftop garden and exclusive whisky tasting experiences. The Sheraton Grand Hotel has nice castle view rooms, and the One Spa is incredible, offering eight stages of hot saunas, rain showers, and indoor and outdoor pools. With this blissful treatment you’ll be fully relaxed and ready for your holiday!

We were in Edinburgh in the fall and there were lots of pubs and shops to hideaway during the chilly weather and soak in the local atmosphere. Take the time to explore, wander around, and on a clear day take advantage of the views from some of the many lookout points.

This exciting two week itinerary in Portugal will have you relaxing on magnificent beaches, sightseeing medieval cities, exploring quaint towns, and reveling in old world wines paired to plant-based cuisine. Hire a car for the gorgeous coastal roads and start the adventure through one of Europe’s best kept secrets.

Your Portugal getaway awaits,

Boa viagem!

Two Weeks in Portugal

1. Lagos | (1 hour drive) Arrive into Faro airport and take the drive to Lagos
2. Lagos | Enjoy Lagos’ beaches by boat with one of the many boat trips along the coast through the rocky grottos. Explore the walled old-town of Lagos with alfresco dining and a lively nightlife.
3. Lagos | Suntan & picnic on the dramatic beaches around Lagos or explore the Algarve Coast by car
4. Lisbon | (4 hour drive) Head north up the coast, taking plenty of stops along the windswept West Coast beaches until reaching Lisbon. Enjoy dinner and drinks in the charming Alfama or Bairro Alto neighborhoods of Lisbon.
5. Lisbon | Sightsee for the day around Lisbon visiting centuries-old churches, grand monuments and quaint plazas. Take the tram to the historic seaside town of Belem and sample the famous Pasteis de Belem.
6. Lisbon | Plan a day trip to the whimsical Pena Palace and Moorish Castle in in Sintra.
7. Obidos | (1 hour drive) Spend the night in Obidos, a charming medieval town set inside the stone walls of a grand castle.
8. Douro Valley | (5 hour drive) Drive to the scenic Douro Valley, where the roads wind through mountain passes and serpentine valleys filled with heritage vineyards, set along the gorgeous Douro River.
9. Douro Valley | Sip magnificent wold-world wine in the finest Quintas of the Douro Valley.  Enjoy a chef-prepared locally grown lunch set in a spectacular vineyard overlooking the Douro river
10. Douro Valley | In the morning, ride a Rabelo boat up the Douro River.  Spend the afternoon relaxing poolside. Wine and dine with a muilt-course wine pairing, served in an 18th century manor.
11. Porto | (3 hour drive) Drive to Porto in the morning and wander the colorful town to admire exquisitely tiled churches, an acclaimed bookstore and a picturesque train station.
12. Porto | Walk over a world-famous bridge and take the Teleferico de Gaia to Vila Novo de Gaia to visit the Port Cellars for their informative tours and delicious Port wine tasting.
13. Fly home from the Porto Airport
14. Your Choice | One extra day to spend how you choose 

A Vegetarian Guide to Lagos

A charming and lively beach town on the Algarve Coast, Lagos is popular with students and tourists drawn to the dramatic coastal caves and secluded beaches. The perfect place to start the trip and rest on the beach to get into vacation mode.

Stay: Pick an AirBnB rental in the center of the old town.
Read Your Complete Vegetarian Guide to Lagos

Lisbon City Guide

Get out on foot with your camera and explore this lovely city of neighborhoods, bringing together a collection of wine and tapas bars tucked among historic buildings on old cobbled streets.

Stay: Fontecruz Lisboa, Autograph Collection
Read Your Complete Guide to Lisbon City

Pastries and Parapetes in Belem

Just a quick 20 minute tram ride from Lisbon, Belem is a charming seaside destination with stunning architecture and delicious local pastries that the crowds come flocking for. Cafes selling various Pasteis de Belem can be found all over Portugal but the original flakey custard pastries hail from a small cafe in Belem, where the recipe has been kept top secret since 1837!

Day Trip: Ride Tram 15 to Belem and delight in the original Pasteis de Belem. 
Read Your Complete Guide to Belem

Pena Palace in Sintra

A short day trip from Lisbon, this fairy tale land feels miles away. A crumbling stone Moorish Castle counterbalances the over-the-top and whimsical Pena Palace set atop the hills within a vast 200 hectare forest.

Day Trip: Visit the beautiful Pena Palace
Read Your Complete Guide to Pena Palace in Sintra

Sipping Ginja in Obidos

Stay: Praia D’El Rey Marriott Golf & Beach Resort
– OR – Pousada Castelo Óbidos Historic Hotel
Read Your Complete Guide to Sipping Ginja in Obidos 

A Wine Lover’s Dream in Douro

Read Your Complete Guide to the: Douro Valley

A Romantic Weekend in Porto

Porto’s magnetism pulls at you with its old world charm. Gorgeous architecture transforms simple bookstores, cafes, churches and train stations into marvels just waiting to be discovered. In Nova de Gaia, large wooden barrels of Port wine float down the river on old Rabelo boats.  They arrive from the nearby Douro Valley to be cellared for years (if not decades) before being enjoyed in one of Porto’s many wine lodges.

Stay in Style: InterContinental Porto – Palacio das Cardosas
Read Your Complete Guide to Porto City

Route Map

The entire route is approximately 12-14 hours of drive time from Lagos to Porto. It’s worth it to take the scenic route up the west coast from Lisbon.  Stop along the way at the dramatic Arrifana beach, in Aljezur to explore a tenth century castle, see the expansive curved beach in Odeceixe, and visit the brightly painted town of Porto Covo.

Based from Lisbon you can visit Belem, Sintra, the Boca do Inferno in Cascais, and even Comporta as great day trips. Obidos is charming stopover on the way to the Douro Valley and Porto, where the dramatic scenery really shines… just when it seemed the trip couldn’t get any better!

Portugal is a remarkable european destination, benefiting from warm and friendly locals truly happy to share their charming towns with culture-seeking travelers.

Let us know in the comments if you are researching a trip to Portugal, we would love to hear about your plans!

If you’ve already checked it off your travel wish list, what part of Portugal did you enjoy most?

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A quick search for Vancouver sight-seeing, day trips, or Vancouver suspension bridges inevitably yields Capilano Suspension Bridge as one of the city’s must-see.  It’s certainly impressive, but our vote for the best suspension bridge in Metro Vancouver is in Lynn Canyon, easily accessible by transit or car in the District of North Vancouver.  Since there is no entry fee to Lynn Canyon Park, save yourself the whopping $42.95 (2017) charge to visit the Capilano Suspension Bridge and get high above the tree tops with your need-to-know guide to the Lynn Canyon Park & Suspension Bridge.

Twin Falls at Lynn Canyon Park, North Vancouver

Overview

Lynn Canyon Park, home of the Lynn Canyon Suspension Bridge, first opened in 1912 and boasts over 600 acres of forest trails, swimming holes, and gorgeous natural landscape waiting to be explored.  With a forest of west coast evergreen trees averaging 80-100 years old a mere 25 minutes from the city, a day trip to Lynn Canyon Park is city escapism at its finest.

Numerous trails connect the Lynn Canyon Suspension Bridge with 30 Foot Pool, Twin Falls Bridge, and the Ecology Centre.  See them all within an hour’s walk.  For those looking to head out a little further afield, the 48km Baden Powell Trail flanks the east side of the park and provides a challenging yet simple to navigate out-and-back hike of any duration you choose.

Lynn Canyon Park Trail Map

Walk Up from Twin Falls Bridge

Getting There

15km by road from downtown Vancouver, Lynn Canyon Suspension Bridge is accessible by car via the Lions Gate Bridge or the Second Narrows Bridge to Vancouver’s North Shore. There is free parking on site, though on busy days you may need to park outside the main park’s entrance and walk in.

For those without a vehicle, catch the SeaBus across beautiful Vancouver Harbour to Lonsdale Quay, and hop on the #229 or #228 bus to Lynn Valley Centre – a 15 minute walk from the Lynn Canyon Park’s main entrance.  If you would rather save your steps, the #227 bus will connect you from Lynn Valley Centre to the Lynn Canyon Park’s main entrance so your walking shoes are ready to go inside the park.

Vancouver SeaBus from Downtown to North Vancouver

Hours

The park is open summers from 7:00am to 9:00pm PST, spring and autumn from 7:00am to 7:00pm PST, and in the winter from 7:00am to 6:00pm.

As with any forested outdoor activity, be sure to keep your visit well within dawn-to-dusk hours.

Lynn Canyon Suspension Bridge

Lynn Canyon Suspension Bridge

The park’s main attraction, the Lynn Canyon Suspension Bridge, remains a locals’ true hidden gem.  It’s narrow, springs a little with each step, and gives breathtaking views of the waterfalls and forests below.  You will be 50m (164ft), or about 16 stories, above the raging river so take your camera and get ready to capture some incredible shots!

Lynn Canyon Park North Vancouver

If the suspension bridge is your only priority in Lynn Canyon Park, it is easily accessible off the paved parking area for those visitors who are less mobile.

What to Bring

The trails at Lynn Canyon Park are a combination of wood plank boardwalk and dirt trail.  Wear your day hikers as Vancouver is notoriously rain-city, so the trails may be wet.  We believe there are no bad days, only bad gear, so with a decent rain coat and shoes you’ll be set no matter what the day’s weather brings.

There are numerous swimming holes in Lynn Canyon, though we’re talking mountain-top runoff and very fresh water… so it tends to be chilly!  Even so, on a summer’s day a crystal-clear fresh water swim just can’t be beat so pack a towel, picnic, drinking water and snacks and you’ll have everything you need to enjoy a full day in west coast paradise.

Any of the accessible swimming locations are a minimum 15-20 minute walk from the carpark / suspension bridge.  Mind the signs pointing out the swimming locations and do not jump a fence.  It’s incredibly steep in some locations with unforeseen drop offs.  Stay safe, and enjoy the park!

Learn

The Lynn Canyon Ecology Centre offers young visitors of any age the opportunity to learn about the variety of plants and animals they may see in the park.  There are numerous galleries to explore and with only a $2 suggested donation for entry, is easy on the pocket book.

Après

No doubt you’ll be ready for a bite after your visit to the Lynn Canyon Suspension Bridge, so we’ve compiled a few of our favourite North Shore vegan and vegetarian friendly hotspots for a great post-hike meal on your way back to the city.

• Tao Organics Café.  Raw/Vegan.  210-150 Esplanade West, North Vancouver
• Burgoo.  Soups/Stews/Comfort Foods.  3 Lonsdale Ave, North Vancouver
• The Workshop.  Vegetarian Japanese. 296 Pemberton Ave, North Vancouver
• Bluehose Market & Cafe.  Organic/Local. 4342 Gallant Ave, North Vancouver

Did we miss your go-to veggie friendly restaurant?  Be sure to let us know in the comments below.

Baden Powell Trail Marker

We hope you enjoy your day at the beautiful Lynn Canyon Suspension Bridge as much as we do!  It’s a locals’ hidden gem, and unlike the Capilano Suspension Bridge, visiting is completely free.  So grab your shoes and camera and head out for a gorgeous west coast adventure just half an hour from the city lights.  Bon voyage!

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If you have a little extra time, be sure to drive along country roads through the small villages along the way, stopping and visit the crafts and farmer’s markets. There are gems just waiting to be discovered that can change your perspective of a destination and how you see the world.

Chichen Itza is an expansive collection of Mayan ruins in the Yucatán, Mexico, dating back to 600 A.D. We spent the day exploring this ancient Mayan society.  We could spend hours just walking around the base of the impressive the step pyramid, El Castillo, and appreciating the detailed stone carvings at the Great temple of Warriors. With this much history, having a guide or guidebook can really help you understand the symbolism and significance behind the architecture.

Visiting Chichen Itza is an easy day trip from Cancun and the surrounding areas, but to help make the most of your visit we’ve outlined our top tips to know before you go.

Temple of the Warriors

El Castillo

Getting There

• Set the alarm and head out early! The Chichen Itza ruins open at 8am ~ and is located in the central standard time zone, which is conveniently 1 hour behind Cancun time only half of the year, so double check your time zones.  It’s recommended to be a few minutes early if you really want to beat the crowds. If traveling in a group, once you arrive have one person park while the another gets in line at the ticket booth.
• To give you an idea of the crowds, every year over 1.4 million people visit the Chichen Itza Mayan Ruins; a UNSECO World Heritage site and a New Seven Wonder of the World.
• If you’re driving from Cancun, it’s a two and a half hour (200km / 125mi) drive on the toll highway. From Playa Del Carmen, Chichen Itza is a comparable (180km / 111mi). There are two tolls for a standard car in each direction $67pesos and $267pesos ($632pesos return trip ~ 2017).  Fill up with gas before you go and be sure stay within the speed limits.
  • Sails & Spices Note: There is plenty of highway patrol, so the route is quite safe.  Even so, at dawn and dusk some industrious folks have been known to fake a vehicle breakdown or flat tire to lure in a tourist or two and relieve them of a few dollars.  Don’t bother to stop, local authorities can assist any drivers that have broken down.
• If an early morning wake up call while on vacation isn’t your idea of a good time you can also spend the night near the ruins, like in the bungalows at The Lodge, and take a leisurely 10 minute walk over in the morning.

El Castillo Serpent

El Castillo

Mesoamerican ballgame

What to Bring to Chichen Itza

• Your camera! The ruins make for stunning photos, particularly at sunrise.  Many of Mexico’s top attractions do not allow tripods, monopods, or any “filming” without a government permit.  As long as your camera is handheld, you’ll be fine. 
• Chichen Itza is a sprawling site with limited shade.  On a sunny day remember to bring lots of water, your hat, and sunscreen!  There aren’t any hills to climb, but as the site is large it’s best to wear some good walking shoes.
• There is so much history behind the ruins that having a guidebook or hiring a guide will help paint a vivid picture of the ancient city.  Guides may be hired at the front entrance though prices will vary.
• On site vendors sell all manners of high quality artisan souvenirs including masks, pottery and jewelry so bring cash if you want bring some handmade crafts back with you.  An ATM is located just outside the main gate.

Nearby Attractions

After a day of walking in the hot sun, stop for a refreshing swim at one of the nearby cenotes on the way back to your hotel.  Two recommendations are Cenote Il Kil or Cenote Samula, and both are on the google map below.

Continue Exploring Mexico’s Tastes and Sites

Explore more of Mexico’s great culture!  Catch a sunrise at the incredible sea-side ruins of Tulum, explore local Mexican cuisine at the Ritz-Carlton Culinary Center, or reminisce on a trip for your taste buds with one of our favorite Mexican recipes:

• Visiting The Ancient Ruins of Tulum
• The Ritz-Carlton Cancun’s Culinary Center 
• Vegan Ceviche Recipe
• Squash Tacos with Homemade Tortillas Recipe

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Lagos Portugal is a European traveler’s ultimate beach paradise.  When I first arrived into Lagos as a backpacker in my early twenties I was taken aback by its beauty.  Set against a dramatic backstop of sandstone cliffs, mystical grottos, white sand beaches and turquoise waters, this laid-back fishing town is the perfect place to relax outside of the typical European hustle and bustle.  When I returned nearly ten years later, I could confidently conclude that Lagos is a true gem. 

While Lagos has long been both a backpacker’s beach-party stop and a favourite family-friendly hidden gem for sun seeking UK holiday makers, it remains a relative European beach side secret for those in the know.  Though most who happen upon the gorgeous Portuguese Algarve focus their time in either Faro or Albufeira, you will be well rewarded to head a little further west to enjoy the stunning beaches, friendly locals, and reasonable prices offered in sunny Lagos.

The cobbled and walled city centre is car-free and rife with small shops and cafes.  With not a single chain restaurant in the pedestrian town centre, Lagos treats you to the locals’ hospitality all the way.  Town squares with late night summer dances, sunny sangria patios, and phenomenal beaches are all yours to explore.  Here is your vegetarian guide to Lagos…

 GETTING THERE

Easily accessed by either a rental car or charter coach from Lisbon or Faro, our favourite way to arrive in Lagos is by train from Lisbon, via Tunes. The 4.5 hr trip winds through the lush Portuguese hillsides along routes inaccessible by road.

 VEGETARIAN FOOD & DRINKS

Walk the cobbled streets of Lagos at dusk and you may start to question if you’ll ever find something to eat besides Peri Peri chicken or fish of the day. Yes, you may need to expand your horizons past ‘traditional’ Portuguese food to find something vegan or vegetarian in this town, but there are still plenty of delicious places to eat, drink, and soak up the magic of Lagos. Here are some of our favorite vegan and vegetarian friendly restaurants, bars, and cafes in town.

Don’t forget to check out the map at the end of the post to help plan your trip and find out what’s located near your hotel. 

• Nah Nah Bah | Come for the decadent “World’s-Best” Nah Nah Bah Burgers, stay for the great reggae vibes. Ask to swap any of the burgers with a house-made vegan patty. A chill-out atmosphere with strong cocktails & great company. The place to watch the Portuguese national football matches. (pictured below)
• Mama’s Table | You’ll need to be enjoying the world famous atmosphere of the Rising Cock Hostel or its Guest House to get a seat at Mama’s Table for breakfast, but for those do you’ll be treated to handmade crepes and Tika Tika Tea, made with love by Mama herself.  Luckily for those who aren’t, we’ve got the recipes straight from Mama… though I doubt you have a lemon tree in your backyard!
• Beats & Burritos | Mexican food made with fresh ingredients. Easy to customize vegetarian or vegan with a build-your-own menu.
• The Green Room | Casual Mexican joint with fun indoor/outdoor atmosphere. Good cocktails & hot sauces. No credit cards.
• Maharaja Tasty Indian | Very tasty Indian food with great outdoor seating along the cobblestoned streets. (pictured below)
• Restaurant Kohinoor | Another delicious Indian restaurant! Always a great vegetarian option.
• Croissanteria 29 | A must stop for a quick breakfast or lunch, this tiny cafe serves unforgettable croissant sandwiches straight out of the oven.
• Mimar Snack & Wine Bar | This casual hang-out serves homemade meals, pastries, wines & tapas.
• Meu Limao | A good place for happy hour drinks and sangrias, with a solid selection of vegan and vegetarian tapas. Sidewalk seating next to the St. Anthony Church makes for great people watching. (pictured below)
• Bora Cafe | Try this tiny indoor/outdoor cafe for healthy breakfasts, lunches and juices. Gluten-free, vegan and vegetarian options available.
• Cafe do Mar | Although not the best option for vegetarian food, this place simply can’t be beat for it’s fantastic oceanside view while enjoying a cocktail. Stop in for a cold drink on the way up from Praia Dos Estudantes.

Meu Limao

Maharaja Tasty Indian

Nah Nah Bah

BEST BEACHES IN LAGOS

This is the reason you came to Lagos! These beaches are some of the most stunning in the world. Start near town at Praia dos Estudantes, and from there walk along the cliffs hitting one beach after another and taking in the beautiful views. The natural beauty of the Algarve Coast is one of a kind.

• Praia dos Estudantes | One of the best beaches, this small sandy beach is located right near town. It’s quick and easy to get to, but not too overcrowded. When you need to cool down, stop at nearby Cafe do Mar for a drink with a gorgeous view.
• Praia do Pinhão | A dramatic beach set against towering cliffs. Very photogenic spot. You can swim and walk through the caves from Praia dos Estudantes.
• Praia Dona Ana | Voted “best beach in the world” by Conde Nast Traveller Magazine. As you can imagine, Dona Ana gets very busy on the weekend.
• Praia de Camilo | A small and beautiful beach that gets busy in the afternoon, this was one of our favorites. During low tide you can explore the nearby caves and formations. Be prepared to climb a lot of steps, but it’s worth it!
• Praia de Pinheiros | A little harder to get to, this small, secluded beach is sheltered from the wind and has calm open waters.
• Ponta da Piedade | This is a popular place south of Lagos for people to gather on the cliff and watch the sunsets. It’s about a half an hour walk from Lagos or you can take a boat trip and get up close to the cliffs formations. Look for the tunnel to joining beaches.

Praia dos Estudantes

View of Praia do Pinhão

EXCURSIONS

One of the best ways to see the Algarve Coast is by boat. You could rent a ski boat, go kayaking, or even take sailing lessons for the day. Here are our top picks for boat activities in Lagos.

• Algarve Boat Rentals | Rent a ski boat or charter a sail boat. Go in the morning when there are less people and be sure to bring your boating license.
• rusailing | Get out on the ocean by take sailing lessons for the day.
• Days of Adventure | Take a boat trip to see dolphins in the wild or a kayak tour of the grottos. #1 on Trip Advisor.
• Algarve Freedom Kayaks | Go on a kayak tour to see the caves and visit a secluded beach where you can swim and snorkel.

THE MAP

Click on the arrow on the top left corner to hide/unhide the list of locations on the map.

We hope you get a chance to visit this gem on the coast of Portugal for a truly relaxing holiday!

PORTUGAL CITY GUIDES

If you are planning a trip around Portugal, check out the rest of Sails & Spices Portugal City Guides:

• Sipping Ginja in Obidos
• Lisbon City Guide
• A Wine Lover’s Dream in Douro Valley
• Pena Palace in Sintra
• Pastries and Parapetes in Belem
• A Romantic Weekend in Porto

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In this travel guide we share all our favorite sights in the city to help plan your perfect weekend away.  Check out the interactive map at the end of this post with all our recommendations!

There is so much to see and do in Porto. As a suggested itinerary, start by sightseeing the many landmarks in the city. In the afternoon, enjoy the views and walk over the Dom Luis I Bridge to Gaia. The gondolas, Teleferico de Gaia, are definitely worth the ride down, even if you are a little scared of heights.

On this side of the river you can arrange tours to visit the cellars, or Port Lodges, where Port is aged. In our opinion, the best way to enjoy the evening is with some glasses of Port wine and cheese pairings along the waterfront. Muito Romantico!

Our Favorite Sights in Porto

Church of Santo Ildefonso | One of the most beautiful blue-tiled churches in Porto.

Lello Bookstore | Rumored to be a source of inspiration for Harry Potter, this bookstore is so famous you’ll need a ticket to get in.

Sao Bento Railway Station | This train station is worth a visit just to see the stories and history depicted on all the hand painted tiles.

Liberdade Square | Porto’s central square surrounded by beautiful buildings and close to many other sights in the city.

Capela de Santa Catarina | Another beautiful church featuring stunning tile work.

Torre dos Clérigos | Climb the steps for an unmatched 360 degree view of Porto from inside the tower.

Ribeira District | A riverside neighborhood across from Gaia with cobbled streets and colorful houses.

The Porto Cathedral | Fantastic views of the city from the cathedral walls.

Best Port Cellars to Visit

Once the Port wine is harvested and bottled in the Douro Valley, it’s brought to Porto to be aged in the cellars. Traditionally, the Port wine barrels were carried down the Douro River in Rabelo boats.

The Port Lodges are located in Vila Novo de Gaia. There are many to choose from, some offer a great cellar tour, while others feature the best riverfront patio for Port wine tasting and watching the world go by.

• Sandeman | Cellar tours & a beautiful riverside patio with delicious Port cocktails and cheese pairings.
• Grahams 1890 Lodge | An impressive, historic lodge with cellar tours & a tasting room. By reservation only.
• Churchill | A short and informative cellar tour & a garden patio overlooking the river.
• Ramos Pinto | Popular tour with tasting included, indoor seating only.

Since we were there to celebrate my birthday, we decided to sit on the sunny patio and order the 30 year old reserve Port and a cheese plate to share. Porto is a great place to visit for any special occasion!

Sails & Spices’ Favorite Places

Porto is one of Portugal’s most popular cities and it’s easy to see why. During our visit the city’s charm won us over and left us wanting more time to enjoy this beautiful place. We will be back! Is Porto on your wish list of cities to visit?

Portugal City Guides

We highly recommend visiting the Douro Valley from Porto, it makes a great day trip or you can even go for a few nights. In this post A Wine Lover’s Dream in the Douro Valley we share tips & photos of one of the most beautiful wine regions in the world!

If you are planning a trip around Portugal, check out the rest of Sails & Spices Portugal City Guides:

• Sipping Ginja in Obidos
• Lisbon City Guide
• Pena Palace in Sintra
• Pastries and Parapetes in Belem
• A Vegetarian Guide to Lagos

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