On Lonely Planet’s Best-in-Travel Top 10 Countries to Visit in 2018, Portugal is an explorer’s dream. Leave the research to us!
This exciting two week itinerary in Portugal will have you relaxing on magnificent beaches, sightseeing medieval cities, exploring quaint towns, and reveling in old world wines paired to plant-based cuisine. Hire a car for the gorgeous coastal roads and start the adventure through one of Europe’s best kept secrets.
Your Portugal getaway awaits,
Boa viagem!
Two Weeks in Portugal
- Lagos | (1 hour drive) Arrive into Faro airport and take the drive to Lagos
- Lagos | Enjoy Lagos’ beaches by boat with one of the many boat trips along the coast through the rocky grottos. Explore the walled old-town of Lagos with alfresco dining and a lively nightlife.
- Lagos | Suntan & picnic on the dramatic beaches around Lagos or explore the Algarve Coast by car
- Lisbon | (4 hour drive) Head north up the coast, taking plenty of stops along the windswept West Coast beaches until reaching Lisbon. Enjoy dinner and drinks in the charming Alfama or Bairro Alto neighborhoods of Lisbon.
- Lisbon | Sightsee for the day around Lisbon visiting centuries-old churches, grand monuments and quaint plazas. Take the tram to the historic seaside town of Belem and sample the famous Pasteis de Belem.
- Lisbon | Plan a day trip to the whimsical Pena Palace and Moorish Castle in in Sintra.
- Obidos | (1 hour drive) Spend the night in Obidos, a charming medieval town set inside the stone walls of a grand castle.
- Douro Valley | (5 hour drive) Drive to the scenic Douro Valley, where the roads wind through mountain passes and serpentine valleys filled with heritage vineyards, set along the gorgeous Douro River.
- Douro Valley | Sip magnificent wold-world wine in the finest Quintas of the Douro Valley. Enjoy a chef-prepared locally grown lunch set in a spectacular vineyard overlooking the Douro river
- Douro Valley | In the morning, ride a Rabelo boat up the Douro River. Spend the afternoon relaxing poolside. Wine and dine with a muilt-course wine pairing, served in an 18th century manor.
- Porto | (3 hour drive) Drive to Porto in the morning and wander the colorful town to admire exquisitely tiled churches, an acclaimed bookstore and a picturesque train station.
- Porto | Walk over a world-famous bridge and take the Teleferico de Gaia to Vila Novo de Gaia to visit the Port Cellars for their informative tours and delicious Port wine tasting.
- Fly home from the Porto Airport
- Your Choice | One extra day to spend how you choose
A Vegetarian Guide to Lagos
A charming and lively beach town on the Algarve Coast, Lagos is popular with students and tourists drawn to the dramatic coastal caves and secluded beaches. The perfect place to start the trip and rest on the beach to get into vacation mode.
Stay: Pick an AirBnB rental in the center of the old town.
Read Your Complete Vegetarian Guide to Lagos
Lisbon City Guide
Get out on foot with your camera and explore this lovely city of neighborhoods, bringing together a collection of wine and tapas bars tucked among historic buildings on old cobbled streets.
Stay: Fontecruz Lisboa, Autograph Collection
Read Your Complete Guide to Lisbon City
Pastries and Parapetes in Belem
Just a quick 20 minute tram ride from Lisbon, Belem is a charming seaside destination with stunning architecture and delicious local pastries that the crowds come flocking for. Cafes selling various Pasteis de Belem can be found all over Portugal but the original flakey custard pastries hail from a small cafe in Belem, where the recipe has been kept top secret since 1837!
Day Trip: Ride Tram 15 to Belem and delight in the original Pasteis de Belem.
Read Your Complete Guide to Belem
Pena Palace in Sintra
A short day trip from Lisbon, this fairy tale land feels miles away. A crumbling stone Moorish Castle counterbalances the over-the-top and whimsical Pena Palace set atop the hills within a vast 200 hectare forest.
Day Trip: Visit the beautiful Pena Palace
Read Your Complete Guide to Pena Palace in Sintra
Sipping Ginja in Obidos
– OR – Pousada Castelo Óbidos Historic Hotel
Read Your Complete Guide to Sipping Ginja in Obidos
A Wine Lover’s Dream in Douro
A Romantic Weekend in Porto
Porto’s magnetism pulls at you with its old world charm. Gorgeous architecture transforms simple bookstores, cafes, churches and train stations into marvels just waiting to be discovered. In Nova de Gaia, large wooden barrels of Port wine float down the river on old Rabelo boats. They arrive from the nearby Douro Valley to be cellared for years (if not decades) before being enjoyed in one of Porto’s many wine lodges.
Stay in Style: InterContinental Porto – Palacio das Cardosas
Read Your Complete Guide to Porto City
Route Map
The entire route is approximately 12-14 hours of drive time from Lagos to Porto. It’s worth it to take the scenic route up the west coast from Lisbon. Stop along the way at the dramatic Arrifana beach, in Aljezur to explore a tenth century castle, see the expansive curved beach in Odeceixe, and visit the brightly painted town of Porto Covo.
Based from Lisbon you can visit Belem, Sintra, the Boca do Inferno in Cascais, and even Comporta as great day trips. Obidos is charming stopover on the way to the Douro Valley and Porto, where the dramatic scenery really shines… just when it seemed the trip couldn’t get any better!
Portugal is a remarkable european destination, benefiting from warm and friendly locals truly happy to share their charming towns with culture-seeking travelers.
Let us know in the comments if you are researching a trip to Portugal, we would love to hear about your plans!
If you’ve already checked it off your travel wish list, what part of Portugal did you enjoy most?
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Lagos Portugal is a European traveler’s ultimate beach paradise. When I first arrived into Lagos as a backpacker in my early twenties I was taken aback by its beauty. Set against a dramatic backstop of sandstone cliffs, mystical grottos, white sand beaches and turquoise waters, this laid-back fishing town is the perfect place to relax outside of the typical European hustle and bustle. When I returned nearly ten years later, I could confidently conclude that Lagos is a true gem.
While Lagos has long been both a backpacker’s beach-party stop and a favourite family-friendly hidden gem for sun seeking UK holiday makers, it remains a relative European beach side secret for those in the know. Though most who happen upon the gorgeous Portuguese Algarve focus their time in either Faro or Albufeira, you will be well rewarded to head a little further west to enjoy the stunning beaches, friendly locals, and reasonable prices offered in sunny Lagos.
The cobbled and walled city centre is car-free and rife with small shops and cafes. With not a single chain restaurant in the pedestrian town centre, Lagos treats you to the locals’ hospitality all the way. Town squares with late night summer dances, sunny sangria patios, and phenomenal beaches are all yours to explore. Here is your vegetarian guide to Lagos…
GETTING THERE
Easily accessed by either a rental car or charter coach from Lisbon or Faro, our favourite way to arrive in Lagos is by train from Lisbon, via Tunes. The 4.5 hr trip winds through the lush Portuguese hillsides along routes inaccessible by road.
VEGETARIAN FOOD & DRINKS
Walk the cobbled streets of Lagos at dusk and you may start to question if you’ll ever find something to eat besides Peri Peri chicken or fish of the day. Yes, you may need to expand your horizons past ‘traditional’ Portuguese food to find something vegan or vegetarian in this town, but there are still plenty of delicious places to eat, drink, and soak up the magic of Lagos. Here are some of our favorite vegan and vegetarian friendly restaurants, bars, and cafes in town.
Don’t forget to check out the map at the end of the post to help plan your trip and find out what’s located near your hotel.
- Nah Nah Bah | Come for the decadent “World’s-Best” Nah Nah Bah Burgers, stay for the great reggae vibes. Ask to swap any of the burgers with a house-made vegan patty. A chill-out atmosphere with strong cocktails & great company. The place to watch the Portuguese national football matches. (pictured below)
- Mama’s Table | You’ll need to be enjoying the world famous atmosphere of the Rising Cock Hostel or its Guest House to get a seat at Mama’s Table for breakfast, but for those do you’ll be treated to handmade crepes and Tika Tika Tea, made with love by Mama herself. Luckily for those who aren’t, we’ve got the recipes straight from Mama… though I doubt you have a lemon tree in your backyard!
- Beats & Burritos | Mexican food made with fresh ingredients. Easy to customize vegetarian or vegan with a build-your-own menu.
- The Green Room | Casual Mexican joint with fun indoor/outdoor atmosphere. Good cocktails & hot sauces. No credit cards.
- Maharaja Tasty Indian | Very tasty Indian food with great outdoor seating along the cobblestoned streets. (pictured below)
- Restaurant Kohinoor | Another delicious Indian restaurant! Always a great vegetarian option.
- Croissanteria 29 | A must stop for a quick breakfast or lunch, this tiny cafe serves unforgettable croissant sandwiches straight out of the oven.
- Mimar Snack & Wine Bar | This casual hang-out serves homemade meals, pastries, wines & tapas.
- Meu Limao | A good place for happy hour drinks and sangrias, with a solid selection of vegan and vegetarian tapas. Sidewalk seating next to the St. Anthony Church makes for great people watching. (pictured below)
- Bora Cafe | Try this tiny indoor/outdoor cafe for healthy breakfasts, lunches and juices. Gluten-free, vegan and vegetarian options available.
- Cafe do Mar | Although not the best option for vegetarian food, this place simply can’t be beat for it’s fantastic oceanside view while enjoying a cocktail. Stop in for a cold drink on the way up from Praia Dos Estudantes.
Meu Limao
Maharaja Tasty Indian
Nah Nah Bah
BEST BEACHES IN LAGOS
This is the reason you came to Lagos! These beaches are some of the most stunning in the world. Start near town at Praia dos Estudantes, and from there walk along the cliffs hitting one beach after another and taking in the beautiful views. The natural beauty of the Algarve Coast is one of a kind.
- Praia dos Estudantes | One of the best beaches, this small sandy beach is located right near town. It’s quick and easy to get to, but not too overcrowded. When you need to cool down, stop at nearby Cafe do Mar for a drink with a gorgeous view.
- Praia do Pinhão | A dramatic beach set against towering cliffs. Very photogenic spot. You can swim and walk through the caves from Praia dos Estudantes.
- Praia Dona Ana | Voted “best beach in the world” by Conde Nast Traveller Magazine. As you can imagine, Dona Ana gets very busy on the weekend.
- Praia de Camilo | A small and beautiful beach that gets busy in the afternoon, this was one of our favorites. During low tide you can explore the nearby caves and formations. Be prepared to climb a lot of steps, but it’s worth it!
- Praia de Pinheiros | A little harder to get to, this small, secluded beach is sheltered from the wind and has calm open waters.
- Ponta da Piedade | This is a popular place south of Lagos for people to gather on the cliff and watch the sunsets. It’s about a half an hour walk from Lagos or you can take a boat trip and get up close to the cliffs formations. Look for the tunnel to joining beaches.
Praia dos Estudantes
View of Praia do Pinhão
EXCURSIONS
One of the best ways to see the Algarve Coast is by boat. You could rent a ski boat, go kayaking, or even take sailing lessons for the day. Here are our top picks for boat activities in Lagos.
- Algarve Boat Rentals | Rent a ski boat or charter a sail boat. Go in the morning when there are less people and be sure to bring your boating license.
- rusailing | Get out on the ocean by take sailing lessons for the day.
- Days of Adventure | Take a boat trip to see dolphins in the wild or a kayak tour of the grottos. #1 on Trip Advisor.
- Algarve Freedom Kayaks | Go on a kayak tour to see the caves and visit a secluded beach where you can swim and snorkel.
THE MAP
Click on the arrow on the top left corner to hide/unhide the list of locations on the map.
We hope you get a chance to visit this gem on the coast of Portugal for a truly relaxing holiday!
PORTUGAL CITY GUIDES
If you are planning a trip around Portugal, check out the rest of Sails & Spices Portugal City Guides:
- Sipping Ginja in Obidos
- Lisbon City Guide
- A Wine Lover’s Dream in Douro Valley
- Pena Palace in Sintra
- Pastries and Parapetes in Belem
- A Romantic Weekend in Porto
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In this travel guide we share all our favorite sights in the city to help plan your perfect weekend away. Check out the interactive map at the end of this post with all our recommendations!
There is so much to see and do in Porto. As a suggested itinerary, start by sightseeing the many landmarks in the city. In the afternoon, enjoy the views and walk over the Dom Luis I Bridge to Gaia. The gondolas, Teleferico de Gaia, are definitely worth the ride down, even if you are a little scared of heights.
On this side of the river you can arrange tours to visit the cellars, or Port Lodges, where Port is aged. In our opinion, the best way to enjoy the evening is with some glasses of Port wine and cheese pairings along the waterfront. Muito Romantico!
Our Favorite Sights in Porto
Church of Santo Ildefonso | One of the most beautiful blue-tiled churches in Porto.
Lello Bookstore | Rumored to be a source of inspiration for Harry Potter, this bookstore is so famous you’ll need a ticket to get in.
Sao Bento Railway Station | This train station is worth a visit just to see the stories and history depicted on all the hand painted tiles.
Liberdade Square | Porto’s central square surrounded by beautiful buildings and close to many other sights in the city.
Capela de Santa Catarina | Another beautiful church featuring stunning tile work.
Torre dos Clérigos | Climb the steps for an unmatched 360 degree view of Porto from inside the tower.
Ribeira District | A riverside neighborhood across from Gaia with cobbled streets and colorful houses.
The Porto Cathedral | Fantastic views of the city from the cathedral walls.
Best Port Cellars to Visit
Once the Port wine is harvested and bottled in the Douro Valley, it’s brought to Porto to be aged in the cellars. Traditionally, the Port wine barrels were carried down the Douro River in Rabelo boats.
The Port Lodges are located in Vila Novo de Gaia. There are many to choose from, some offer a great cellar tour, while others feature the best riverfront patio for Port wine tasting and watching the world go by.
- Sandeman | Cellar tours & a beautiful riverside patio with delicious Port cocktails and cheese pairings.
- Grahams 1890 Lodge | An impressive, historic lodge with cellar tours & a tasting room. By reservation only.
- Churchill | A short and informative cellar tour & a garden patio overlooking the river.
- Ramos Pinto | Popular tour with tasting included, indoor seating only.
Since we were there to celebrate my birthday, we decided to sit on the sunny patio and order the 30 year old reserve Port and a cheese plate to share. Porto is a great place to visit for any special occasion!
Sails & Spices’ Favorite Places
Porto is one of Portugal’s most popular cities and it’s easy to see why. During our visit the city’s charm won us over and left us wanting more time to enjoy this beautiful place. We will be back! Is Porto on your wish list of cities to visit?
Portugal City Guides
We highly recommend visiting the Douro Valley from Porto, it makes a great day trip or you can even go for a few nights. In this post A Wine Lover’s Dream in the Douro Valley we share tips & photos of one of the most beautiful wine regions in the world!
If you are planning a trip around Portugal, check out the rest of Sails & Spices Portugal City Guides:
- Sipping Ginja in Obidos
- Lisbon City Guide
- Pena Palace in Sintra
- Pastries and Parapetes in Belem
- A Vegetarian Guide to Lagos
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Quinta Nova
We were on a mission to find the perfect stay in a European wine country. Our dreams of relaxing by the pool, overlooking rows of age-old vines, and getting to know the nuances of their fabulous wines were vivid… we just needed to know where.
Read on to learn how we decided on Portugal’s Douro Valley, and get our travel guide to the best Quintas & places to stay…
Casa Do Visconde De Chaceleiros
The European Wine Experience
Popular films like ‘Under the Tuscan Sun’ and ‘Stealing Beauty’ have created a fairytale of the Tuscan summer dream. The allure has proved infectious, and now over 40 million tourists flock to Italian Tuscany each year to explore the sunbaked landscape and enjoy its world renowned wines. France’s Bordeaux and Champagne are equally famous, and most deserving of their own dedicated and thorough exploration.
These are bucket-list trips to be sure, akin to a wine lover’s pilgrimage, but the savvy traveler will know to pick their dates carefully. During the high season the traditional locales of a European wine-lover’s dream can become both crowded and costly as you compete with all the other visitors chasing the same vision of paradise. These are gorgeous areas, famous for a reason and worth visiting in a lifetime, but there are other jewels still waiting to be discovered.
To the west is a true hidden gem… featuring equally complex yet lesser known old-world wines, served with the most generous of hospitality against a backdrop of incredible landscapes. Holding a prime location on Europe’s far west coast, Portugal delivers all the tenets of the authentic European vineyard dream, and it remains yours to discover.
Gateways to the region, Portugal’s capital Lisbon (a scenic 4 hour drive to the Douro Valley) and Porto (1.5 hours) are each impressive cities in their own right. Both are easily accessible from within Europe or major airport hubs around the world. If you need to mix water with your wine, tie in the Algarve on Portugal’s south coast for some absolutely incredible beaches. You will have yourself a dream holiday!
The Douro Valley
Famous for its Port, and increasingly recognized for its impeccable and complex table wines, the Douro Valley is a stunning landscape of old stone terrace vineyards built up from the banks of the winding Douro River. The grapevines are planted on steep hills of schist rock and grow under the hot Portuguese sun. The harsh terroir makes the vines struggle to break through the rock, resulting in a lower yield of more flavorful grapes. The harvest is still picked by hand each year as tractors cannot fit on the very narrow terraces, often wide enough for only one row!
A UNESCO World Heritage Site with a rich history, the Douro Valley has been perfecting its wines for the last three hundred years. In fact, it was the world’s first demarcated regulated wine region. This means true Port can only come from the Douro Valley, much like Champagne can only come from Champagne… so do not be fooled by unregulated port-style imposters.
The Douro wine region is made up of three sub-regions. The Upper Corgo is recommended if you are looking to visit a number of excellent wineries, or Quintas, in close proximity.
- Baixo Corgo (Lower Corgo) | The smallest region, producing early maturing, inexpensive ruby and tawny ports.
- Cima Corgo (Upper Corgo) | The largest region, centered by the town of Pinhao, featuring famous vineyards with many excellent ports.
- Douro Superior (Upper Douro or New Douro) | The least accessible region, with only a few wineries but some of the finest ports.
Port Wines
If you have ever enjoyed a great glass of Port as an aperitif, or to complete a meal with a selection of cheeses, you know the allure of this intensely flavored fortified wine.
Port wines are made from a number of grape varietals, vintages, and blends. To make Port, winemakers add a neutral grape brandy, aguardente, during the fermentation process. This addition stops the fermentation of the natural grape juice sugars and results in the Port wine’s distinct sweetness.
- White Port | Lightly golden, made from white grapes primarily from the upper slopes. Fruity and full-bodied. Aged for 2-3 years and can be dry or semi-sweet.
- Ruby Port | Beautiful ruby red color with strong notes of fresh fruit. Youthful, approachable and versatile with firm tannins. Aged no more than 3 years in barrels, ready to drink young.
- Aged Tawny Port | Amber or garnet in color. Rich and mellow with nutty and caramel flavors. Made from multiple vintages. Aged 3 years in smaller barrels where some oxidization can occur, then casked and aged for 10, 20 or 30+ years before being blended and bottled.
- Late-Bottled Vintage Ports or Reserve Port | Deep red color. A complex berry or plum taste. Single year vintage, aged 4-6 years in barrels.
- Vintage Port | Dark ruby color. Premium and complex, with character. Made from a blend of the finest grapes within a vintage year. Vintage years are only declared by the Port Wine Institute for outstanding regional harvests, typically every 3 out of 10 years. Aged 2 years in barrels, and 20-50 years in bottle.
Of course, true Port wine can only be labelled as such if produced entirely of grapes grown in the Douro Valley. The numbered label is a verification of authenticity, and is tightly controlled by the Port Wine Institute. If there is no numbered label, it isn’t Port wine.
The Douro Valley also produces an extensive range of great table wines (Douro Wines) which benefit from the same environment that make the exceptional and flavorful Port. Douro wines are quickly gaining notoriety and can account for 30-50% of the production of many Quintas.
Where to stay in the Douro Valley
To enjoy a week in Douro nothing is more fitting than staying in a gorgeous family manor where you can relax by the pool while enjoying amazing vineyard views. Each day your biggest choice will be which of the many Quintas nearby you’ll visit, before you finish the evening with a long multi-course dinner paired with local wines and shared conversations among new friends.
Casa Do Visconde De Chaceleiros
Casa Do Visconde De Chaceleiros, near Pinhao, is the perfect accommodation. An impeccable 18th century manor is set amongst beautifully manicured grounds filled with gardens, a pool with a view, tennis court, hot tub, sauna and, of course, a help-yourself bar.
Every evening, out of a magnificent chef’s kitchen, the charming staff serve a three-course meal complete with local wine pairings while you gaze upon the view from the second floor terrace. Vegetarians are generously accommodated with divine home-cooked Portuguese dishes that spare no effort. Dinner reservations are confirmed daily in advance, so if you wish to dine in for dinner on your first night it is best to confirm this when booking your stay. Many, as we did, will choose to dine in each evening.
The Deluxe Room is your choice for the ultimate getaway, though none of the accommodations will disappoint. Separate from the other guest rooms, the deluxe rooms feature two levels, a European queen sized bed, soaker bathtub with a view and a small private patio surrounded by lavender, rosemary, and vineyard views.
A Day of Wine Tasting
If you are in the Douro Valley then wine tasting is no doubt at the top of your to-do list. The vineyard views are stunning, and the selection of Port and Douro Wines is fantastic!
When considering your plans, we do not recommend driving the in Douro Valley if you plan on wine tasting! The roads to many Quintas are extremely steep and winding. Only one lane wide in many areas, and often featuring no guard rails to the valley below, the drive through Douro’s backroads can be quite exhilarating! Instead of going it alone, invest to spend the day with a private driver or a guide. Tastings in Douro are generous and unhurried affairs, so even though they are located seemingly close together, visiting two to three Quintas is rather ambitious for a single day.
Many of the best Quintas absolutely require reservations for tours and tastings. You may be accustomed to wine regions where it is possible to arrive at the tasting room counter at any time during business hours and be served. Since many Quintas are family-run and without large commercial tasting rooms, making a reservation in advance will ensure your experience is tailored for you and most memorable.
Where to visit in the Douro Valley
To help plan your day of tastings, we’ve included the names of some of the very best luxury wineries & restaurants (as well as the best boat tour) in the area:
- Rabelo Boat Tour (Tour) | Rabelo boats are the traditional vessels historically used to take the barrels of Port down the river from the Douro Valley to the city of Porto, where they are cellar aged. Short tours up the river are available from Pinhao with Magnifico Douro. Tours leave from the Magnifico Douro pier in front of the Vintage House hotel, and cost 10€ cash per person (2016).
- Quinta do Crasto | An incredible location for the most luxurious lunch with wine pairings. This was one of our favorites with its beautiful setting, delicious vegetarian food, and exceptional wines. Not only specializing in wines, Quinta do Crasto also grow their own incredible almonds and olives on site. Be sure to leave enough time during your visit to enjoy the impressive views from the turquoise pool, one of the best in the valley.
- Quinta Nova | Fantastic wine and port tastings, with three tasting experiences to choose from (24€-74€, 2016). The Quinta has a lovely view, and offers an onsite hotel and pool (for guests). Take advantage of the winery tour, sunset tasting served with appetizers, or a luxurious 3-course vegetarian meal.
- Quinta do Panascal | A small winery specializing in Port wines, with optional ‘reserve tastings’. Owned by the Fonseca brand which is internationally recognized for excellent Ports. For 7€ (2016) you can take the independent guided audio tour through the vineyards and enjoy three Port samples. It can get very hot in the summer, so good footwear and a hat is recommended.
- Quinta do Seixo | Sandeman’s award-winning winery offers tours of the impressive production facilities and welcomes thousands of visitors each year. Choose between tours like the Vau Vintage Tour where you can learn about the history of the winery and sample 5 wines in a private setting (€ 16.00 in 2016) or go on the Wineyard Tour and take a guided walk through the vineyard, learning about the 100-year old grapes and the unique terainne of the Douro Valley (€ 18.00 in 2016)
- Quinta do Popa | A small family run vineyard that comes well recommended. This vineyard is special because of the beautiful picnic baskets they offer that you can take out and enjoy in the vineyard with some wine and a nice view. This Quinta also offers beautiful lunch or brunch experiences with wine tasting. Bookings are essential for tastings and experiences.
- DOC (Restaurant) | A luxury high-end restaurant with the choice of elegant dishes or a chef’s tasting menu with wine pairings, located in a beautiful setting next to the river.
On the drive into the Douro Valley
- Quinta da Pacheca – This is one of the oldest wineries in the region and still family run. Make a reservation to take one of the informative tours to learn the history of the estate, visit the cellars, and taste the selection of wines. There is a boutique hotel on the property and some vegetarian options available in the restaurant.
- Six Senses Douro Valley (Hotel) | A luxury hotel suited for an outstanding stay. This unique property offers an organic garden, swimming pools, great views, spa, and an exquisite chef’s tasting experience.
An elegant lunch at Quinta do Crasto
One of the best infinity pools in the valley – Quinta do Crasto
September and October is harvest time in the Douro Valley and this is a great time to visit! Sign up for some truly unique experiences, such as hand picking grapes in the vineyards or pressing them in the winepress. Of course, plenty of incredible table wines and Ports will be on hand to reward your hard work.
Sails & Spices Port Pairing Tips
How could we talk about the beautiful Douro Valley and its delicious Ports without sharing some pairing tips to enjoy at home?
- White Port | Enjoy as an aperitif before dinner, mix with tonic and a sprig of mint for a refreshing summer cocktail, or try a fresh take on sangria with Portuguese White Port Sangria.
- Ruby Port or Late-Bottled Vintage Ports | Beautiful after dinner with berry deserts, complimenting with strong notes of fresh berry flavors. Excellent with a rich dark chocolate mousse or homemade brownie.
- Aged Tawny Port | Bring out the Tawny Port’s caramel and toasted nut flavors with cheeses, toasted nuts, spiced apple pie and vanilla ice-cream, or a caramelized crème brûlée.
- Vintage Port | The finest of all, a Vintage Port has the complexity of flavors and distinction to be savored alone. It may be traditionally paired with Stilton cheese, salted walnuts, or chestnuts and dark chocolate.
Final Words
If you are still considering where to spend your next wine holiday, Portugal’s Douro Valley is a hidden gem that’s been producing excellent wine and ports for centuries. Our time in Douro exceeded every expectation and we could not have been more spoiled by the Portuguese hospitality and generosity. The visit was truly special.
Let us know if you have any questions we can help answer, and if you’ve been to the Douro Valley please leave us a note in the comments with your top tips for our next visit!
Portugal City Guides
If you are planning a trip around Portugal, check out the rest of Sails & Spices Portugal City Guides:
- A Romantic Weekend in Porto
- Sipping Ginja in Obidos
- Lisbon City Guide
- Pena Palace in Sintra
- Pastries and Parapetes in Belem
- A Vegetarian Guide to Lagos
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Getting There
For the complete experience you will definitely want to catch the iconic tram 15 from Lisbon, which rattles and creaks its way along the well worn tracks to Belém. The trams can get very busy in the heights of summer, so if traveling in high season your best bet is to get on at the terminus station, Figueira Square. Even so there may be a shuffle as European tourists elbow their way on to find a seat.
- Tram 15 – A one way trip costs €2.85 (2016). The 15 line runs both the modern and historic trams.
- Alternatively (or on the way back) the cab ride costs around €10 (2016) and can save you some hassle.
- Note: On Mondays, the Jerónimos Monastery and Torre de Belém are closed and can only be viewed from the outside. On the first Sunday of every month these attractions are free!
Pastéis De Belém
Near the terminus of tram 15 you’ll find the world-rerenowned café Pastel De Belém. Take your time, find a seat, and order a coffee to enjoy with some of the most famous sweet custard tarts in all of Portugal.
These are no ordinary tarts! Pastéis de Belém are one-of-a-kind, a truly authentic delicacy, made from an ancient secret recipe. Only 3 people in the world know how to make them! The recipe is never written down, only memorized, and each day the ingredients are mixed together behind a locked door. The Pasteis de Belém are both patented and trade marked, so the similar custard tarts you find around Lisbon (i.e: Pastéis de Nata) are made from a replica recipe. Of course, we recommend you try each and determine the true winner for yourself. The Belém café is rumored to make more than 20,000 tarts a day, baked in an inferno oven at 750 degrees Fahrenheit, 400 degrees Celsius!
Pastéis de Belém were first made in the 18th century, by the French monks from the nearby Jerónimos Monastery. The monks relied on egg whites to starch their clothes and the nun’s habits, so left over egg yokes were used in French inspired cakes and pastries. The monks started selling the Pastéis de Belém to raise funds for the church, eventually selling the recipe to the nearby sugar refinery in 1837. To this day, Pastéis de Belém are made and sold in the exact same location, created from the traditional top-secret recipe.
Jerónimos Monastery
After your fill of sweet Portuguese pastries and coffee, you will have the energy to explore the rest of Belém!
As you walk west of the Pastéis de Belém, you will come across the Jerónimos Monastery. This is claimed to be one of Lisbon’s best attractions and a UNESCO World Heritage site. The monastery is beautiful with photogenic arches and a serene atmosphere, showcasing the late gothic Manueline style of architecture. The original church on the site was dedicated to Santa Maria, where monks would assist and pray for voyaging sailors.
If you plan on visiting multiple sites in Belém, consider a combination ticket to save a few Euros. On a budget, you can visit the attached church, where entry is free.
Padrao dos Descobrimentos
(Under Restoration – 2016)
The Padrao dos Descobrimentos (Monument to the Discoveries), is currently undergoing restoration so check on its the status during the time you visit. It is a beautiful site. The impressive monument celebrates the Portuguese Age of Discovery and was originally created for the 1940 Portuguese World Exhibition.
To get to the Padrao Dos Descobrimentos, take the underpass from the gardens of the Jeronimos Monastery gardens.
Torre De Belém
The unique Torre De Belém is completely surrounded by water at the mouth of the River Tagus. Elegant sculpted balconies and parapets make you feel like a prince or princess in a majestic ocean tower. The Torre De Belém is a short 10-minute walk along the waterfront from the Padrao Dos Descobrimentos.
A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the fort was built as military defensive in the 16th century on orders of King Manual I. Much prettier than your typical military fort, the architecture is built in the Portuguese Late Gothic Manueline style (much like the Jerónimos Monastery). Nautical details and opulence represent the successes and wealth Portugal had during the Age of Discoveries, expanding their overseas colonies and commanding trade routes that brought riches from Africa, Brazil and the Far East.
Belém and its sites represent discovery, adventure, and risks and rewards. Nowadays you can wander these impressive monuments to get a glimpse of Portugal’s many great achievements, of which we consider the delightful and world-famous Pastéis de Belém among its tastiest.
PORTUGAL CITY GUIDES
If you are planning a trip around Portugal, check out the rest of Sails & Spices Portugal City Guides:
- A Romantic Weekend in Porto
- A Wine Lover’s Dream in the Douro Valley
- Sipping Ginja in Obidos
- Lisbon City Guide
- Pena Palace in Sintra
- A Vegetarian Guide to Lagos
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If you are looking to savor the atmosphere of a small and historic village in Portugal, there is nowhere more picturesque and charming than Obidos. This quaint town is made up of a maze of cobblestone streets and white washed churches, surrounded by tall castle walls. Although a little touristy at times, there is a great ‘lost in time’ atmosphere that takes you back to a medieval era gone by.
As you pass through the cobbled entrance to the village, shops greet you selling pretty flower wreaths for your hair. Further along, children play in the center square, dressed like royalty with their princess dresses and crowns.
Ginja
Obidos is known for its Ginja (also called Ginjinha), a traditional Portuguese sour cherry liqueur. Made since 1890 by infusing sour Morello Cherries with Aguardente (Portuguese brandy), sugar, and cinnamon, Ginja is a sweet delight. Local custom serves it up in dark chocolate cups, the perfect accompaniment.
Following a local tip we were looking for Ibn Errik Rex (Son of Erik the King), which was recommended as the best bar to sample Ginja. It wasn’t hard to find, located at the end of the main street Rua Direita, just a few buildings before the church. The historic bar is decorated with ceramics and hundreds of tiny bottles hanging from the ceiling. Jeweled bottles of Ginja sit on the wooden tables, served by the glass along with a selection of tasty appetizers. The location is perfect to order one, or two, Ginjas and let minds wander to the clashes of Kings that saw Obidos taken from the Moors by the first king of Portugal all the way back in 1148.
After sipping our Ginja, we were ready to explore the rest of the town. One of the highlights was walking high atop the stone castle walls that surround the city. The walls are narrow, tall, and un-even in areas, but surrounding the tiny village perfectly adventurers are treated to glimpses into the life below and unbroken views out to the horizon.
During this trip we wanted to experience as much of Portugal as possible, visiting big cities like Lisbon and Porto, sunbathing by the Algarve Coast, and drinking the most amazing wine in Douro. It was also important to us to also see another side of Portugal, the small hilltop villages and their medieval history. Obidos, consistently ranked one of the top-1o walled cities in the world, was the perfect town for this, wooing us to fall in love with its Portuguese character and medieval charm.
Sails & Spices Tips
- Obidos can be visited as a day trip from Lisbon. Many tour operators operate round-trip bus service, however to avoid some of the tourist crowds it’s recommended to stay the night.
- For an exciting and novel experience, stay in the Castle’s refurbished luxury hotel, Casa das Senhoras Rainhas.
- If an overnight stay isn’t feasible for your itinerary, consider renting a car and driving yourself. Catch Obidos in the golden hour… the tour buses will have departed and you’ll be spoiled with a quiet town and stunning photos.
- Every summer Obidos hosts a Medieval Festival, where the town is truly transformed back in time. You can rent a costume to get into character, watch knight’s joust on horseback, and dine on a medieval style feast at this unique celebration.
PORTUGAL CITY GUIDES
If you are planning a trip around Portugal, check out the rest of Sails & Spices Portugal City Guides:
- A Romantic Weekend in Porto
- A Wine Lover’s Dream in the Douro Valley
- Lisbon City Guide
- Pena Palace in Sintra
- Pastries and Parapetes in Belem
- A Vegetarian Guide to Lagos
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Lisbon is a city of neighborhoods waiting to be discovered and explored. Panoramic views are around every corner. The city is spread across seven hills, giving stunning views over the red rooftops and plazas towards the Tagus River (Río Tajo) as it empties into the Atlantic ocean.
After walking up all those hills, there is no shortage of wine bars, tapas lounges, and terrace cafés to refuel you. You can explore by foot, tuk-tuk, or take the historic trams through the old winding and beautifully cobbled streets.
In this city guide we share our favorite attractions, wine bars & best vegetarian place to eat. Keep scrolling to the end of the post for a map with all our recommendations listed…
BAIXA
Baixa, Lisbon’s city center, is the first city in the modern age developed in a grid format, an update made during the rebuild after the devastating earthquake of 1755. Featuring several gorgeous squares of mosaic cobbles, fountains, and the bustle of vendors we found great joy in simply walking amongst the colorful buildings and admiring the details.
If your trip dates align, be sure to visit the market in Figueira Square on the last weekend of every month. Browse the paintings or crafts, while nibbling on fruits, local cheeses, fresh breads and cured meats. This was our first encounter with the deliciously sour, sweet, and refreshing liqueur called Ginjinha, or Ginja, served in small chocolate cups as is the tradition in Obidos.
While sangria is most often associated with the Spanish, do not be mistaken… Portugal will give them a run for their money any day! While walking among the market stalls we came across our new favourite… White Port Sangria. Mint and cinnamon? Who knew!
Figueira Square is also the terminus where you’ll get your best chance to catch the busy tram 15 to Belém and try the famous custard tarts, Pastéis de Belém. While tram 15 isn’t your only transport to Belém, it’s the most iconic. If you simply can’t make it, the historic Rossio Square is one location where you’ll find a café serving fresh Pastéis de Nata, based on a similar recipe.
If you’re anything like us, once you try one you’ll have to compare both… alternating back and forth throughout your stay to find the ‘true winner’. Good luck!
Praça do Comércio is a majestic square with the stunning and very photogenic Arco da Rua Augusta. Located by the river it feels like the gateway to the city. Tram 15 does stop in front of the Arch, but in high season you are likely to just watch it roll by, completely full.
While in town, check the calendar as there is often some manner of festivities taking place here. We were lucky to soak up some Euro 2016 action playing on a huge screen while locals and tourists alike ate, drank, and cheered their loudest “Força Portugal!”.
EDUARDO VII PARK
If the Praça do Comércio is the gateway arch to the bottom of city, The Eduardo VII Park at the top of the Avenue de Liberdade, is surely its crown with panoramic views over the whole city.
We recommend packing your walking shoes, picking an end and making your way from one to the other. You could begin at the arch you and walk past the outdoor cafes, flea market stalls and designer stores. At the top of Eduardo VII Park you will be rewarded with stunning views of Lisbon and the accomplishment of a nice hill climb. This is a great location to get a work out in, running up and down the park three to five times will get you breathing and your calves burning!
If that’s a bit over ambitious, take a tuk-tuk or taxi to the top and work your way back down with a glass of wine at the river as your reward.
ALFAMA
We found Alfama to be a charming neighborhood to explore and walk around, though be forewarned… It’s full of steep streets and cobbled stone steps. It is the oldest district in Lisbon, least affected by the earthquake of 1755, and boasts some gorgeous tiled homes, their fresh washing drying in the Atlantic breeze.
The shady open-air café next to the Monastery of São Vicente de Fora is a nice place to get a view of the city and the old Sao Jorge castle walls. Wine bars tucked along the streets have hundreds of wines lining the walls, and can be enjoyed by the glass or by the bottle. If you are lucky you might catch a small parade or other festivities winding through the streets in this quaint area, particularly in June when the patron saints like Santo Antonio are celebrated.
BAIRRO ALTO
Bairro Alto is a fantastic stop for happy hour and its vibrant nightlife. Start at the beautiful old church of São Roque and walk down the narrow and twisting pedestrian streets, passing the purveyors of wine and tapas.
You never know what you will find. One afternoon we found turned a corner to see a gorgeous yellow tram and a couple dozen folks laughing and drinking alongside the tracks. Well, poke your head through the half-height stone door beside them and you’ll find one-euro beers being served for alley-side enjoyment. We enjoyed our drinks and the atmosphere outside on the steps as the tram came and went every couple of minutes, navigating the steep climb on behalf of its weary passengers. (This charming street was known as the Bica Elevator, check our map at the end of the post for the exact location!)
Simply being is a lovely way to spend a relaxed late afternoon in Bairro Alto.
Best Wine Bars & Vegetarian Friendly Places to Eat
- Primo Basilico | Pizza with vegetarian & vegan options
- The Food Temple | A cozy find for some healthy vegetarian or vegan food
- Estrela da Bica | Low key with a bohemian vibe, good wine list, and lots vegetarian options
- Terra | Award winning vegetarian restaurant with a calm garden setting
- Jardim dos Sentidos | A charming restaurant with tasty and innovative vegetarian food and a beautiful garden
- BA Wine Bar do Bairro Alto | A tiny and trendy wine bar, worth making the necessary reservations to enjoy the huge selection of Portuguese wines and cheese pairings
- The CorkScrew | A nice wine bar to spend the afternoon or evening watching the people go by through, trying from hundreds of wines, and enjoying tasty tapas.
Our Thoughts
Lisbon is a modern European city with all the amenities, but it proceeds at its own pace and enjoys a somewhat laid-back west coast style. Meals are long unhurried affairs and even the most popular attractions boast queues no where near the length you come to expect in major Euro enters.
This city is so friendly and hospitable to travellers (budget conscious adventurers can enjoy some of the world’s best-rated hostels) we wished we had more than three nights to soak up the atmosphere.
While many who visit Lisbon have been known to scrap their day trips to keep exploring the city, it is an iconic melting pot of all that is great about Portugal and the country that deserve your exploration. Nearby, be sure to check out the pastries and Torre de Bélem, the growling Boca do Inferno, the fairy tale castles of Sintra, and sip ginja in the the medieval town of Obidos.
Have you visited Lisbon and know of a hidden gem? Are you planning a visit and need a tip? Let us know below…
PORTUGAL CITY GUIDES
If you are planning a trip around Portugal, check out the rest of Sails & Spices Portugal City Guides:
- A Romantic Weekend in Porto
- A Wine Lover’s Dream in the Douro Valley
- Sipping Ginja in Obidos
- Pena Palace in Sintra
- Pastries and Parapetes in Belem
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When we were planning our trip to Portugal, as soon as we saw Pena Palace we just knew we had to visit. Where else in the world can you find such a colorful fantasy palace right next to an old medieval stone castle? These are the sites of legends and fairy tales. Only 30 minutes out of Lisbon, there is really no excuse to miss it.
Not ones to settle for the bus, we decided to hike up through the forest to the palace. Expect a good 1.5 hour climb, taking time for pictures, and another 45 minutes just to find the trail head when you first reach town. Our day was a summer cooker, but it felt like quite an accomplishment when we reached the top and could see the Castle of the Moors looming behind us.
The Pena Palace is whimsical and immaculately detailed, a UNESCO world heritage site, known for its romantic style architecture. As you walk around the palace walls, there is an impressive view of the Castle of the Moors with the valley below. From the palace terrace, arches frame the view out towards the ocean.
Walking through the inside of the palace is a journey back in time. All the rooms and have been preserved so you can peek in on the interior decor of ancient kings and queens. Walk the grand dining room, the royal quarters, and the best part, the huge chefs kitchen… filled to the brim with copper cookware and everything you can imagine to cook a huge feast.
Some tips for visiting The Pena Palace and Castle of the Moors in Sintra:
- Plan for a long day if you are going to hike up the hill to visit both the Pena Place and Moore Castle. It is a long walk up, and they are not immediately adjacent (read, more walking to get to the second stop). Combination tickets are available.
- The hike up through the forest was a highlight, and on the way down you can take convertible buggy for around 5-euro p.p. which raced us back down the narrow streets to the town of Sintra in about 10 minutes.
- Avoid going on the weekends if you want to miss the crowds, so much as is possible. During the week parking is relatively easy. We had read recommendations to park in the outskirts of town, fearing no spaces and steep one-way streets. This advice was a bit overkill, as arriving by 10:00am into Sintra on a Monday there were parking spots at the castle once we finally made it to the top.
PORTUGAL CITY GUIDES
Portugal is filled with medieval castles of an age gone by, which is part of what makes it so unique and fun to visit. Sintra is a great day trip from Lisbon, especially if you are staying in Lisbon 3 days or more.
If you are planning a trip around Portugal, check out the rest of Sails & Spices Portugal City Guides:
- A Romantic Weekend in Porto
- A Wine Lover’s Dream in the Douro Valley
- Sipping Ginja in Obidos
- Lisbon City Guide
- Pastries and Parapetes in Belem
This trip has inspired me visit the amazing castles and palaces in places like India, Moscow and France.
Have you visited any castles that you thought were really impressive that we need to check out? Let me know in the comments!
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