Whistler village is a tourist destination in its own right, more cosmopolitan than quaint. A mix of locals, tourists, and expats frequent Whistler. Families experience snow for the first time, party animals enjoy the night scene, and wine connoisseurs revel in high end dining. In short, there’s something for everyone. 

Our carefully curated travel guide has been loving put together after several seasons skiing in Whistler, along with frequent trips to this all-season getaway just 1.5 hours from Vancouver. Enjoy our favourite places to eat vegetarian and vegan, stay and play!

Skiing!

Skiing in Whistler is awesome. With over 200 runs and 8,171 acres of terrain you will not get bored. As both a beginner and intermediate skier we fully enjoyed the slopes, views and variety of runs. The gondola ride up is meditative; trees capped in thick layers of icing sugar snow give way to rocky outcrops and abstract white slopes. Skiing down feels both exhilarating and relaxing, gently gliding or taking more challenging runs, swooping between trees or weaving across wide open terrain.

Umbrella Bar

The Umbrella Bar is my favourite place for a drink with a view in Whistler. It’s a great place to be after a day of skiing, but don’t feel you can’t participate if hitting the slopes was not for you. Located halfway up Whistler Blackcomb Mountain next to the Roundhouse Lodge you can take the Whistler Village Gondola up (which is a must do anyways for the views), and perch yourself on the edge of world, 6000 feet up.

Vodka Ice Bar

Ever since I first read about the concept of a Vodka Ice Bar in a travel magazine it’s been something I wanted to do, so I was so excited the first time we got to do this! The Vodka Ice Bar is situated in Bearfoot Bistro restaurant, but you can book vodka experiences separately (although the restaurant is really good as well). First of all you are given a big fluffy parka complete with hood to keep you comfortable in the subzero ice room. The room is kept at -32 degrees which takes out any bite from the vodka. You get to choose four different vodkas to sample and the whole experience is very cool! You can also arrange to sabre champagnes in the wine cellar if that’s more to your liking.

Scandinave Spa

I can’t believe it took us so long to go to the Scandinave Spa. We came with friends and had such a great time but it would be just as enjoyable as a solo experience. This tranquil setting is made up of hot and cold pools, icy waterfalls, hot saunas, and several relaxation rooms with hammocks, lounge chairs and amazing views. It was so relaxing sitting in a cozy robe, watching the tops of the evergreen trees sway after soaking in the hot pools. A few things to note – It can get quite busy here, but if you have extended health benefits you can make a reservation with an RMT masseuse and skip the wait. Otherwise plan for it to take a little time to get in to the pools only. The spa is restricted to no talking, no phone, and 19+ yrs, which only adds to the peaceful vibe.

Lost Lake

Lost Lake is gorgeous in both the Summer and Winter. In the summer the docks are filled with people sunbathing and swimming. In the winter it’s perfect for a brisk walk and chance to get in tune with nature. Ask your hotel if there is a shuttle service and you might be able to get a ride.

Peak to Peak Gondola

The Peak to Peak Gondola stretches 3.03 km, spanning from Whistler Mountain to Blackcomb Mountain. When it was first built the gondola held the record for the longest continuous lift, now it remains the highest at 436 meters above the ground. If you’re patient, wait for the glass bottomed gondola for even better views of the valley below…way down below.

More Ways to Have Fun:

• Mountain climb on the Via Ferrata Tour
• Zip line through the old growth forests
• Go Mountain Biking during the summer 
• Drive a luxury supercar up the Sea to Sky highway
• During the summer visit the 130-metre Cloudraker Skybridge
• The Vallea Lumina multi media night walk 
• Annual Wanderlust Yoga Festival (On pause 2020, hopefully to return 2021)

Vegan and Vegetarian Dining

What would a travel food blog be without a few recommendations for dining?

Whistler Village

• Naked Sprout | Healthy organic wraps, bowls, and juices
• Green Moustache | Creative, nourishing and plant-based juices, meals and deserts.
• Alta Bistro | Fine dining, very vegan friendly with options rotating on the menu
• Tandoori Grill | Indian curries to warm you up
• Bearfoot Bistro | Fine dining, happy to accommodate vegans
• Harajuku | Offers vegan ramen and sushi rolls
• La Cantina | Selection of veggie tacos
• Mallard Lounge | Located in the Fairmont Hotel in the Upper Village, the Mallard Lounge has a great ambience, large windows, fireplaces, live music and an awesome vegetarian menu. From vegetarian pates with crispy lentils and taro root chips to fried artichoke sandwiches with eggplant bacon, it’s hard to choose what to order. The cocktails are fabulous as well – A Duck in the Fog comes in a little lantern carrier and when you open the door smoke swirls out from around the cocktail, revealing your beverage and making you the envy of all the other tables.
• La Bocca – A selection of Pastas, Pizzas and appies such as Arachini balls in the heart of the village. A mix of vegetarian and non-vegetarian dining.
• La Brasserie – Offers vegetarian brunch options and vegetarian poutin among their mixed menu, also located long the Village stroll next to La Bocca. Good for people watching.

Creekside

• BReD | Organic vegan breads and pizza doughs (to make at home – perfect for your airbnb!)
• Creekbread | Pizza place with a vegetarian and vegan options.
• Aura | Go for the Meatless Monday three-course vegan menu, with wine pairing available
• Raven’s Nest | Vegetarian restaurant located at the top of Creekside Gondola

Function Junction

• The Velvet Underground Cafe | A new local favourite for vegetarian
• Functional Pie | Serving vegan pizza with sausage and mozzarella!
• Green Moustache | Second location, vegetarian juices and nourishing meals.

Accommodation

Choose a hotel in Whistler’s Upper Village or in the main Village, both close to gondolas and a 10 min walk apart. Otherwise find an airbnb or rental for a cozier experience.

• Fairmont Chateau Whistler | A luxurious option in the Upper Village. The Mallard lounge is always good for a drink by the fire with live music in the evenings.
• Four Seasons | This hotel has the best pool and jacuzzis in my opinion.
• The Westin Resort and Spa | Located in a central location beside the gondolas, the hotel’s ski valet is a real treat – bringing your skis and boots right onto the slopes!

Getting There

From downtown Vancouver it’s a very scenic 1.5-2hr drive along the Sea to Sky highway. Stop along the way at Porteau Cove, Shannon Falls, The Chief, or Alice Lake to enjoy the mountain scenery.

In the summer arrive in style and take the floatplane from downtown Vancouver harbour, landing in Green Lake, just 3 km north of Whistler. 

Whistler draws many visitors year round as a world-class ski resort, with a variety of all-season attractions. Whether you are coming to ski, mountain bike, pamper yourself, or dine at gourmet restaurants, Whistler offers fantastic memory making experiences. Welcome to our corner of winter paradise.

This vegetarian travel guide for Banff and Lake Louise outlines our favourite places to eat, stay, shop and explore. Scroll down for all the details and we hope this can be a great resource for you as you plan your travels. 

Our first visit was in early spring, and the evergreen trees lining the drive of the Fairmont Banff Springs were heavy with snow. The valet who came to greet us were smartly dressed in thick wool coats. From high in our room we overlooked the river and snowcapped mountains, and the warm pools beckoned us to join the merrymakers soaking their muscles and sharing stories of hiking canyons, skiing, and climbing the nearby mountains.

• Fairmont Banff Springs | Staying at the Fairmont Banff Springs is like staying in a museum. The “castle in the sky” first opened its doors in 1888, welcoming guests from around the world including Marilyn Monroe and Winston Churchill. The hotel boasts a onsite spa with hot pools, an elegant lobby, sweeping mountain views, and multiple dining outlets to satisfy your thirst and hunger. Only a short walk into town (or catch the hotel’s car service), you can also hire snow boots, among other winter equipment, to walk the nearby trails along the Bow River.

View from the Royal Penthouse Suite

• The Fairmont Lake Louise | Lake Louise is located within the Banff National Park, less than an hour drive from the town of Banff. I’ve been told its a lovely experience to book a room at the Fairmont Lake Louise for the weekend, curl up in one of the bay windows with a book, and look out over the lake. We can attest to the wonderful feeling as you sit in the Lakeview Lounge enjoying a glass of wine, musing about how pretty the scenery is. There is excitement in the air, as if each guest knows they’ve found a special place on earth.  

Where to Eat – Vegan & Vegetarian

BANFF

• Nourish | Hands down, our favourite vegetarian spot in Banff is Nourish. Good cocktails, a large selection of bitters and caesars made with in-house worcestershire sauce, great daily specials, and vegan ‘Glow Food‘ cheese made right here in Banff. This cozy spot is decorated with Edison style light bulbs, paper mâché, projection art and local paintings. Our recommendation would be to start with the Nachos, voted best Nachos since 2016, overflowing with 29 ingredients and accompanied by a strawberry salsa. The ravioli makes an excellent main to follow. After chatting with the bartender he shared with us his favourite part of Banff was the people.

Everyone’s a similar age group and you meet a lot of international travellers and interesting people.

Nourish Restaurant

• Wild Flour Bakery | Proudly local, Wild Flour is a great organic cafe that offers vegan sandwiches and a selection of freshly baked treats straight out of their stone hearth oven.
• Stock | Located within the Fairmont Banff Spring lobby, Stock is a good option for grab and go or a casual sit down meal. Choose from warming soups, avo toasts, exotic lattes, and fresh pastries. Check out the futuristic display fridge with fresh sprouts and greens, and challenge your mate to a game of giant scrabble. 

Stock at the Fairmont Banff Springs

• Three Ravens | A highly rated fine dining restaurant in Banff with modern decor and great views which offers a selection of vegan and vegetarian options, if you can look past the otherwise mainly meat and fish based offerings.
• Sky Bistro | More for the view than the vegetarian selection, though they do have a few vegetarian dishes to choose from, Sky Bistro is a pretty special place for date night at the top of the mountain with a romantic gondola ride to get there.
• Juniper Bistro | Another spot with a wonderful view and some vegetarian/vegan options available.

LAKE LOUISE

• Fairmont Lake Louise – Lakeview Lounge | Stunning views from cozy plush chairs or sit outside on the patio on a sunny day, this is the spot to enjoy a glass of wine take in all the beauty of Lake Louise.
• Ice Bar | For a novel experience during the winter Ice Magic Festival order a drink from the Fairmont’s open air ice bar and watch the hockey players skate around the lake.

Lakeview Lounge at Fairmont Lake Louise

Lake Louise frozen over during the winter

• Rocky Mountain Soap Company | Gorgeous collection of soaps and other skin care products. Choose a box and fill it with four of your favourite handmade soaps for great gifts all year long.
• Branches Marketplace | Just a super cute little shop with local and handmade items to peruse.
• Amaryllis Crystal Garden | The place in Banff for all your precious stones and crystals, take a wander and see which stones you are drawn to. This is one of the reasons you gotta pack light!
• Banff Tea Company | Local store selling loose leaf tea with delicious blends like Mama Bear and Banff Trail Mix.

Get Out & Explore!

• Ambraham Lake | Abraham lake is a bit of a drive from Banff (2 hours and 15 min) and off the beaten track, but this is a special sight which draws photographers from far and wide. Look to go in February or March when the lake freezes over and giant bubbles are trapped in the ice creating a gorgeous winter scene. 
• Johnston Canyon Hike | A popular hike near Banff that runs through the canyon, along the river, up to multiple waterfalls and lookout points. Gets very busy with tour buses so plan your trip accordingly.
• The Fairmont Banff Springs Golf Course | A challenging course with gorgeous mountain scenery and exceptional views of the hotel, if you’re lucky you might see some elk sighting during your round.
• Skiing at Sunshine Village, Lake Louise Ski Resort, and Mt. Norquay | Our favourite mountain was Sunshine Village for a day of skiing in the Rockies, and Lake Louise offered steeper slopes for more of a challenge. 
• Banff Upper Hot Springs | Just the ticket for a soak after a day of hiking, skiing, rock climbing and river rafting, or let’s be honest… even after a day lounging around your hotel in a robe. 

Fairmont Banff Springs Golf Course

Elk Sighting in the springtime 

When a crate of cherries landed on our doorstep I knew two things, 1) I needed a cherry pitter and 2) I had to make Cherry Clafoutis. This recipe came drifting into my memory from a time long ago when I was visiting my aunt. A classic French dessert passed down from my grandmother, Cherry Clafoutis is surprisingly easy and can be made with any fresh berries or stone fruit in season.

Each forkful brings you a creamy vanilla custard filling interlaced with the caramel flavours of roasted cherries. Cherries are a delicious superfood packed with antioxidants, vitamin C and even melatonin for a restful nights sleep. No excuse to skip on dessert!

You can pit your cherries with a stainless steel straw (just carefully push it through the cherry centre to push out the pit), or else if you have a ton like we did I recommend something like the OXO good grips cherry pitter, and an apron!

Let’s get to it!

We hope you enjoy these flavours of France and fill your kitchen with the delicious aroma of Cherry Clafoutis this summer.

Along the Algarve Coast of Portugal is the small fishing town of Lagos. Hugely popular as a summer destination, this idyllic seaside town is made up of cobbled pedestrian streets and miles of crescent beaches flanked by impressive cliffs. In the heart of Lagos, at the Rising Cock hostel, Mama takes great care of her guest and makes sure to serve hot fresh crêpes every morning.

10 years after our first visit to Lagos we returned, the ocean and friendly Portuguese people beckoning us back. There was Mama happily cooking up crêpes, telling us to pull up a stool and eat as many as we liked. Backpackers came and went, sitting around the small table, having their fill of crêpes before another day of sunbathing on the beach or going on the infamous Booze Cruise.

Lucky for us Mama shared her recipe with us before we left, and although there are many crêpe recipes online, this one is special to us. The addition of a tablespoon of cornstarch gives those crispy lacy edges that makes a crêpe just that much better than a pancake.

There’s no denying crêpes can be fickle things, but I’m quite sure Mama didn’t use a special crêpe pan, in fact she had these going on multiple burners to keep up with the demand.  With a little trial and error we managed to whip these up in a cast iron pan and before long were feasting on a stack of crêpes proudly made at home.

Mama's Crêpes

• 2 eggs
• 2 cups milk
• 2 cups water
• 2 tablespoon oil
• 2 cups flour
• 1 tablespoon cornstarch
• pinch of salt
• pinch of sugar
• Optional – Vanilla, lemon zest

1. Whisk your eggs in a large bowl.
2. Add in the liquids.
3. Pour in the flour, cornstarch, salt and sugar.
4. Depending on your desired flavors add in the optional vanilla or lemon zest.
5. Whisk to combine everything together. (You can also blend all ingredients in a blender and wait 30 min – 1 hour for the bubbles to subside)
6. Heat up a small or medium pan over low to medium heat. (A pan with a flat bottom surface that is relatively non stick, such as a seasoned cast iron pan, or a specialty crêpe pan, works best.)
7. Use the handle to hold the pan at an angle, and using a ladle scoop a small amount of the batter into the pan, swirling the mixture to cover the pan. You want the batter to spread quite thin so it cooks quickly and doesn’t stick to the bottom of the pan.
8. The first crêpe is often a throw away while the pan heats up and you get your settings right.
9. Cook for several minutes until the edges start to rise and the bottom is golden, and use a spatula to flip the crêpe over.
10. Cook the second side until golden and transfer to a plate to keep warm until ready to serve.
11. Serve with fresh fruit, yogurt or whipped cream, a squeeze of lemon and sugar, Nutella and banana, savory asparagus and cheese, the possibilities are endless!

Crêpes freeze well in an airtight container with parchment paper between them.

The iconic champagne houses, including Veuve Clicquot, Tattinger, and Pommery, are situated in the town of Reims. Ruinart is the oldest of the champagne houses, established in 1729, and is known for its blanc de blanc, a pure blend of Chardonnay grapes.

We decided to catch the train in the morning and visit two champagne houses. The trip was easy, we settled into our pre-assigned seats and soon were swaying along the tracks as the train sped through golden fields and open skies.

Once we pulled up to the train station I had read how important it was to quickly get in line at the taxi line up just outside the train station doors. It was true. There was a long line up already when we arrived.

Surrounded by tall stone walls, we pulled into the driveway of Maison Ruinart and were greeted by a friendly guard. All guests booked on a tour have their name on the list, no walk-ins allowed! Luckily, due to our advanced planning, we were invited to enter the gates and join a few fellow couples in the salon, elegantly decorated with renaissance paintings and some comfortable plush sofas.

Our chic french guide greeted us and started our visit by speaking about the history of Ruinart, pointing out the portraits of the founders. It was after Louis XV issued a decree allowing champagne to be distributed by bottles, and not just barrels, that Ruinart’s champagne gained popularity as business gifts to the cloth buyers, distributed through Dom Ruinart’s brother’s network as a cloth merchant.

Our first stop was a room filled with art – a modern tablescape with melting chandeliers by Dutch artist Maarten Baas; one of France’s earliest advertising posters with a woman provocatively showing off her shoulder by Czech illustrator Alphons Mucha; a replica of Louis XV’s commissioned “Le Déjeuner d’Huîtres” oil painting depicting an oyster feast in full swing with many of Ruinart’s recognizable round shaped champagne bottles.

This painting happens to be the first known piece of art to showcase champagne – can you look carefully and figure how they knew it was champagne featured at the party?

Finally someone in our group noticed the cork flying over the table, a telltale sign of the bubbles pressurized into the wine.

Throughout the entire tour our guide’s descriptions were interesting, engaging and thought provoking… she really knew her craft!

At this stage our guide offered the group a warm blanket as the cellars – les crayères – would be quite cold once we dropped 38 feet below ground, to an even temperature of 11-degrees Celsius. It was this attention to detail that really elevated the experience and made us feel taken care of and appreciative of the luxury in this world prestigious champagne house.

Down the steps we went into the cool dark tunnels, lit with a warm glow along the stairwell. Once we reached the lower level we could see through a window into the production facility as they corked each bottle.

Champagne has a two part fermentation process. Once the first fermentation is complete the neck of the bottle is frozen to create an ice plug, trapping the collected lees sediment. The plug is popped out before quickly re-corking the bottle for a second ferment to create those beautiful fine bubbles.

We were led through the dark halls of the cellars where rows and rows of champagne bottles were gently resting. A quiet setting with dim lighting is just what the champagne needs to mature into its wonderful flavor. As we walked deeper into the caves the bottles of champagne grew larger, and the rows grew deeper, grouped by various cuvée.

In one of the main cathedral-like chambers, the champagne bottles rest at an angle in large wooden trestles shapes like an M, where they are rotated or ‘remuaged’ a quarter turn, 2-3 times a day, to help the lees particles slowly make their way into the neck of the bottle. Madame Veuve Clicquot is credited with inventing the riddling rack. Premium cuvée continue to be rotated by hand.

The history of the cellars is fascinating. Originally old chalk quarries, the walls and large dome shaped rooms are all chiseled by hand. During World War I the main Ruinart house was tragically destroyed and so the offices were moved into the cellars, creating an underground bomb shelter where work could continue.

France’s champagne houses have a history of strong women entrepreneurs. In 1919 André Ruinart passed away leaving his widow Charlotte to run the estate. This is a similar tale to that of Madam Veuve Clicquot who had a huge influence on establishing and innovation in the champagne industry (and some say was rumored to have murdered her husband!). There must have been huge competition and drama between the champagne houses, this setting would make an exciting novel I’d like to read.

Finally we emerged into the sunlight and walked back across the grounds taking in the vast and elegant building and its perfectly manicured landscape. We re-gathered in the salon to savor some of the delicate champagne that had been resting in the caves just days prior..

Our host presented us with a choice of blanc de blanc or rosé, with two cuvées to sample. As we sipped, she joined us and described the flavor profiles, taking us through what to look for on the pallet and the subtle differences.

The blanc de blanc is Ruinart’s signature champagne, made entirely from Chardonnay grapes. It glows with a pale golden yellow color and very fine bubbles. The rosé, created since the 18th century, blends Chardonay with the addition of Pinot Noir.

This was a lovely way to experience the champagnes and we discussed as a group what we thought of each one, which we preferred, and where everyones’ travels had taken them. Finally our tour was complete and we couldn’t resist stopping into the store to bring a few bottles home with us, creating a very special memory of our visit to the one and only champagne region.

Sails & Spices Travel Tips

• Getting Around – When arriving at the train station be prepared for a long line up at the taxi stand. We took a taxi to get around and once we were done our tours, called one from the champagne house to get back into the town square where the train station was.
• Lunch – The champagne houses can be quite far apart and it’s a bit of a walk along the main road to get from place to place. We decided to book two tastings and in between it was a challenge finding somewhere for lunch. Next time I would pack a picnic if there isn’t ample time to find a restaurant. Note the main town square has lots of restaurants (although not a ton of vegetarian or vegan options – we settled for a veggie burger).
• Dress – It does get chilly down in the caves and there is a fair bit of walking, so dress accordingly for your comfort.
• Language – We took the tour in French and probably understood 80% of it, but  being immersed in the French language added to the atmosphere and we felt we probably got a better tour in the guide’s native language.
• Book in advance! It’s no surprise the tours book up quickly especially in the summer time. We simply booked online.

Before I arranged this trip I had no idea the champagne region was so close to Paris. It turned out to be a very easy day trip from Paris. We were back in time for dinner and were thrilled to have experienced the Champagne region of France. What an experience!

Enjoying Your Champagne

• Serving – Serve your Champagne cold, between  7 to 10 °C / 45 to 50 °F. Chill your bottle in a bucket of water and ice for 30 minutes, or take your champagne out of a cold fridge for ~10 minutes before serving.
• Storing – For long term storage, champagne prefers a cool and dark location, with a consistent temperature of approximately 55 deg-F . Lay your bottles on their side so the cork doesn’t dry out. Only store your champagne for up to a couple days in a fridge before serving, or chill with ice.
• Pairings – Champagne pairs beautifully with most lighter meals. Brie cheese, strawberries and almonds are all classic pairings. Rich, buttery and salty foods will contrast nicely with the champagne’s light bubbles. Try our Spring Asparagus Risotto to enjoy with your next bottle.
• If you are looking to throw a cheese a wine party – don’t miss our comprehensive guide to The Ultimate Cheese and Wine Pairing Party. 

If you love wine, we would highly recommend a visit to the Champagne region, just outside of Paris.

We were taught this recipe in Cancun, at the Ritz-Carlton Culinary Center. Our teacher, Chef Manning brought the flavours of Mexico to life and we left with a stronger appreciation for the ingredients and techniques of Mexican cooking. Read about our interview with Chef Ryan Manning here! 

One of the special ingredients for this soup is the guajillo chili, however if you can’t find this you could also use Ancho chili. It’s worth trying to track these down as substituting with other chilis is not going to give the same complex taste.

To really impress your guests take the time to plate your soup bowls with the garnishes and serve the tortilla soup from a teapot for a dramatic presentation. It’s true what they say – you eat with your eyes first.

Let’s make some soup!

Isle of Skye

When we received the invitation to visit Scotland for a dear friend’s wedding, we couldn’t resist the adventure. We were eager to explore stone castles and cobblestone streets and photograph scenic landscapes. The idea of little local pubs filled with fine scotches and live bands playing in front of the wood fire sounded like a perfect getaway. 

Sandy Bell’s In Edinburgh

Pretty soon we had plans to start in Edinburgh and drive through the countryside to Isle of Skye, where we stayed on a local sheep croft. To conclude the trip we reunited with our friends for a traditional Scottish wedding complete with kilts and Cèilidh dancing, close to St. Andrews – home of the original golf course.

Our Scotland travel guide is a collection of our best research, personal experiences, and referrals for places to see, stay and eat (vegetarian!) covering Edinburgh to Isle of Skye.

Scotland’s incredible countryside had us pulling over every 5 minutes wanting to take another photograph. Visiting in October gave us gorgeous tones of gold and orange and we even spotted a beautiful buck with large antlers walking peacefully by the marsh. To our delight we also counted many hairy cows who were happy to pose for photographs.

The Highlights

• Edinburgh | Spend a few days in the capital, exploring one of Europe’s oldest cities. > VIEW THE CITY GUIDE 
• Stirling & Callander | Two nice options for a quick stop, walk around, and refuel at a cafe.
• Glen Coe | Great hiking trails combined with charming B&Bs and pubs made this small town a great overnight destination.
• Eilean Donan Castle | The views of this picturesque castle can easily be enjoyed from the warmth of your dry car in the parking lot.
• Isle of Skye | Dramatic landscapes on this remote island set the stage for smokey whiskeys, stunning photography and moody scenery. The ultimate destination! > VIEW THE CITY GUIDE

On the Road – Points of Interest

Stirling & Callendar

Stirling is nice for quick stop after an hour of driving on the way to Glen Coe from Edinburgh. Small shops and cafes offer an opportunity to refill before the second leg of the journey. Stirling’s attractions include monuments, castles, as well as the site of the 1297 Battle of Stirling Bridge. If it’s not too early for a tipple of whisky, stop in at the Deanston Distillery.

Callendar is another quaint town that makes a pleasant stop along the drive with a few gift shops and nearby hiking trails.

Glen Coe

We chose Glen Coe as our place to spend the night on the way to Isle of Skye. Although it is possible to drive straight from Edinburgh to Isle Of Skye, it’s usually a nicer journey when you can go slow.

Stay:
Heather Lea Bed and Breakfast
RiverBeds Luxury Wee Lodges

Eat:
The Boots Bar, The Clachaig Inn

Glen Coe is a tiny little town nestled in the valley of several big mountains. By far our highlight was the vegetarian friendly pub, The Boots Bar, that our B&B recommended to us.

The Boots Bar appeared in our headlights after driving a few minutes down a dark and windy road. We dashed in from the wet and cold and were welcomed with a hot roaring fire, live music, and friendly locals hanging out with their dogs while enjoying dinner and playing pool. The menu include 4-5 veggie options, as well as local beer, fruit wines and ciders. Clachaig Inn also offers special whisky Master Classes if you decide to stay longer.

The Boots Bar, Glen Coe

Eilean Donan Castle

Eilean Donan Castle makes a pretty stop that’s easy to get to along the drive to Isle of Skye. The Castle is surrounded by a beautiful lake and mountains, and the scene changes depending on the tides and the clouds.

Isle of Skye 

And after you make the windy drive past a million beautiful sights, bridges, lakes and waterfalls, you finally get to Isle of Skye, where everything has a little bit of that special glow. VIEW THE CITY GUIDE

What are your plans for visiting Scotland? If we were to change anything we probably would have spent more time in Isle of Skye since there is so much to explore and it takes a while to get there. Let us know your experiences!

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Victoria Street, Edinburgh

A picturesque city with plenty of history, Edinburgh makes a great jumping off point to start your trip to Scotland. While in the capital, visit the castles and monuments, explore the Royal Mile in Old Town, and make New Town your destination for shopping and cocktails.

Victoria Street, Edinburgh

Edinburgh Castle

Visit:

• Castlehill | The oldest part of Edinburgh is Castlehill, located on the upper side of the Royal Mile. The wide cobblestoned street leads right up to the castle, between shops selling woolen scarves and bag pipers dressed in tartan.
• Edinburgh Castle | The Castle is one of Edinburgh’s most popular sites, if you are interested in touring the grounds and taking a peek at Scotland’s crown jewels, get there for 9:30 when it opens, or the bell ringing at 1:00pm. Even just walking right up to the castle along the Royal Mile, and crossing the draw bridge is a great way to experience the city.
• Arthur’s seat | Hiking up to Arthur’s seat will give you panoramic views, especially during sunrise.
• National Monument | This is Scotland’s monument to fallen soldiers, set high on Calton Hill with great views and greek inspired structures.
• Victoria Street | A colourful and highly photographed street with interesting shops in the historic Old Town.
• Scott Monument | A striking Victorian Gothic monument, found in the Princes Street Garden. Climb up the narrow curved stairs in the tower for great views of the city.

Castlehill

The view of the Edinburgh Castle, Balmoral clock tower, and Scott Monument from the National Monument hill.

Vegetarian Eats & Drinks:

• Start your day with breakfast at Urban Angle, a small organic cafe, or Valvona Crolla for yummy italian pastries.
• We came across Sandy Bell’s while we were walking down Candlemaker Row, and stayed for the friendly vibe and selection of beers and ciders on tap. The Scottish folk band that was playing made the whole experience.
• For a tasty treat visit The Baked Potato Shop in Old Edinburgh serving vegetarian baked potatoes, soups and salads.
• Hula juice bar and gallery is a good stop to get your vitamins for the day.
• For an excellent plant-based dinner visit David Bann and enjoy innovative vegetarian and vegan dining.
• Great for picnics, I.J Mellis Cheesemonger is a small shop on Victoria Street with a wide array of Scottish Cheeses.

I.J Mellis Cheesemonger

Sandy Bell’s

Stay:
The Glass House
Sheraton Grand Hotel & Spa

The Glass house is a beautiful boutique hotel built up from an old church, with an outdoor rooftop garden and exclusive whisky tasting experiences. The Sheraton Grand Hotel has nice castle view rooms, and the One Spa is incredible, offering eight stages of hot saunas, rain showers, and indoor and outdoor pools. With this blissful treatment you’ll be fully relaxed and ready for your holiday!

We were in Edinburgh in the fall and there were lots of pubs and shops to hideaway during the chilly weather and soak in the local atmosphere. Take the time to explore, wander around, and on a clear day take advantage of the views from some of the many lookout points.

The main town in Skye is Portree, where you’ll find small gift shops selling harris tweed, cafes with warming veggie soup of the day & fresh bread, or the local grocery store offering cheese and wine for a picnic.

There are so many sights to visit on Isle of Skye, including the Fairy Pools, Coral Beach, Neist Point lighthouse, and Talisker Whisky distillery. One of the most iconic experiences is to climb up to Old Man of Storr. From the vantage point at the top, giant rocks jut out from swirling misty clouds, and the lakes and ocean glisten below in rays of stray sunbeams. For us this was a truly special moment, the cumulations of months of planning and hours of travel, finally attained undeterred by howling wind and rain drops splattered across our faces.

Right as we were steps from the top, the last steep climb through the slippery mud, a young indian man called out “be careful, go this way… your efforts will be well rewarded!” and off he disappeared down the side of the hill with his camera in hand.

Stay:
Lochshore House

Lochshore is a beautiful house set on a sheep farm, with views overlooking the water. In the mornings the sun rises over the small the duck pond and you can watch the farmer going about his chores, with his sheep dog in tow  while they herd the sheep across the fields. Each morning an impressive home cooked breakfast is served at the dining room table, with decadent made to order choices like delicious blueberry waffles or duck eggs Benedict which you select the night before.

See:

• Old Man Storr | With breathtaking views over Isle of Skye, the steep hike up to the jagged outcrop of rocks that make up Old Man Storr is well worth the effort. Be prepared to get wet and windy no matter what the weather might be when you start up the hill. Waterproof hiking boots and a waterproof clothes make life much easier if the path is muddy.

• Neist Point Lighthouse | Located on the western point of Isle of Skye with panoramic views of the cliffs and ocean. Especially beautiful at sunrise or sunset.
• Dunvegan Castle & Gardens | Explore the gardens and walk through furnished and decorated castle of Dunvegan, with beautiful views all around.
• The Fairy Pools |  Beautiful interconnected crystal blue waterfalls, a great place for photos or a cold swim in the icy water.
• Kilt Rock View Point | A pretty lookout over steep cliffs
• The Quiraing | A popular hiking loop with lush green rolling hills
• Coral Beach | Unique white coral beach with turquoise waters for a great walk or picnic spot.

Eat

• The Caledonian Cafe | a popular cafe in the middle of Portree, with good veggie soups and wraps,
• Cafe Arriba | Cafe with a vegetarian friendly menu in Portree with great views over the harbour.
• Edinbean Inn Restaurant – A local’s favorite with a few good vegetarian options to choose from.
• The Old Inn | Pub with a good atmosphere, live music, and a delicious red ale on tap. Great place for a drink before the Distillery tour.

Whisky

• Talisker Distillery | This distillery tells the story of Talisker, inspired by the strength and salt of the sea, and reviews the essentials of how whiskey is made. Known for peatier smoky whiskeys with an salty profile, Talisker sets a good example of the spectrum of whiskeys available and how they are shaped by their environment. Note that it does get busy so it’s a good idea to book a tour in advance. Last tour of the day takes place at 4pm in the winter, and the distillery closes in January for maintenance.

We hope you get a chance to visit this gem of an island soon – we had a great time! Let us know if you have any questions or ideas to share with other travelers. Happy trails.

This exciting two week itinerary in Portugal will have you relaxing on magnificent beaches, sightseeing medieval cities, exploring quaint towns, and reveling in old world wines paired to plant-based cuisine. Hire a car for the gorgeous coastal roads and start the adventure through one of Europe’s best kept secrets.

Your Portugal getaway awaits,

Boa viagem!

Two Weeks in Portugal

1. Lagos | (1 hour drive) Arrive into Faro airport and take the drive to Lagos
2. Lagos | Enjoy Lagos’ beaches by boat with one of the many boat trips along the coast through the rocky grottos. Explore the walled old-town of Lagos with alfresco dining and a lively nightlife.
3. Lagos | Suntan & picnic on the dramatic beaches around Lagos or explore the Algarve Coast by car
4. Lisbon | (4 hour drive) Head north up the coast, taking plenty of stops along the windswept West Coast beaches until reaching Lisbon. Enjoy dinner and drinks in the charming Alfama or Bairro Alto neighborhoods of Lisbon.
5. Lisbon | Sightsee for the day around Lisbon visiting centuries-old churches, grand monuments and quaint plazas. Take the tram to the historic seaside town of Belem and sample the famous Pasteis de Belem.
6. Lisbon | Plan a day trip to the whimsical Pena Palace and Moorish Castle in in Sintra.
7. Obidos | (1 hour drive) Spend the night in Obidos, a charming medieval town set inside the stone walls of a grand castle.
8. Douro Valley | (5 hour drive) Drive to the scenic Douro Valley, where the roads wind through mountain passes and serpentine valleys filled with heritage vineyards, set along the gorgeous Douro River.
9. Douro Valley | Sip magnificent wold-world wine in the finest Quintas of the Douro Valley.  Enjoy a chef-prepared locally grown lunch set in a spectacular vineyard overlooking the Douro river
10. Douro Valley | In the morning, ride a Rabelo boat up the Douro River.  Spend the afternoon relaxing poolside. Wine and dine with a muilt-course wine pairing, served in an 18th century manor.
11. Porto | (3 hour drive) Drive to Porto in the morning and wander the colorful town to admire exquisitely tiled churches, an acclaimed bookstore and a picturesque train station.
12. Porto | Walk over a world-famous bridge and take the Teleferico de Gaia to Vila Novo de Gaia to visit the Port Cellars for their informative tours and delicious Port wine tasting.
13. Fly home from the Porto Airport
14. Your Choice | One extra day to spend how you choose 

A Vegetarian Guide to Lagos

A charming and lively beach town on the Algarve Coast, Lagos is popular with students and tourists drawn to the dramatic coastal caves and secluded beaches. The perfect place to start the trip and rest on the beach to get into vacation mode.

Stay: Pick an AirBnB rental in the center of the old town.
Read Your Complete Vegetarian Guide to Lagos

Lisbon City Guide

Get out on foot with your camera and explore this lovely city of neighborhoods, bringing together a collection of wine and tapas bars tucked among historic buildings on old cobbled streets.

Stay: Fontecruz Lisboa, Autograph Collection
Read Your Complete Guide to Lisbon City

Pastries and Parapetes in Belem

Just a quick 20 minute tram ride from Lisbon, Belem is a charming seaside destination with stunning architecture and delicious local pastries that the crowds come flocking for. Cafes selling various Pasteis de Belem can be found all over Portugal but the original flakey custard pastries hail from a small cafe in Belem, where the recipe has been kept top secret since 1837!

Day Trip: Ride Tram 15 to Belem and delight in the original Pasteis de Belem. 
Read Your Complete Guide to Belem

Pena Palace in Sintra

A short day trip from Lisbon, this fairy tale land feels miles away. A crumbling stone Moorish Castle counterbalances the over-the-top and whimsical Pena Palace set atop the hills within a vast 200 hectare forest.

Day Trip: Visit the beautiful Pena Palace
Read Your Complete Guide to Pena Palace in Sintra

Sipping Ginja in Obidos

Stay: Praia D’El Rey Marriott Golf & Beach Resort
– OR – Pousada Castelo Óbidos Historic Hotel
Read Your Complete Guide to Sipping Ginja in Obidos 

A Wine Lover’s Dream in Douro

Read Your Complete Guide to the: Douro Valley

A Romantic Weekend in Porto

Porto’s magnetism pulls at you with its old world charm. Gorgeous architecture transforms simple bookstores, cafes, churches and train stations into marvels just waiting to be discovered. In Nova de Gaia, large wooden barrels of Port wine float down the river on old Rabelo boats.  They arrive from the nearby Douro Valley to be cellared for years (if not decades) before being enjoyed in one of Porto’s many wine lodges.

Stay in Style: InterContinental Porto – Palacio das Cardosas
Read Your Complete Guide to Porto City

Route Map

The entire route is approximately 12-14 hours of drive time from Lagos to Porto. It’s worth it to take the scenic route up the west coast from Lisbon.  Stop along the way at the dramatic Arrifana beach, in Aljezur to explore a tenth century castle, see the expansive curved beach in Odeceixe, and visit the brightly painted town of Porto Covo.

Based from Lisbon you can visit Belem, Sintra, the Boca do Inferno in Cascais, and even Comporta as great day trips. Obidos is charming stopover on the way to the Douro Valley and Porto, where the dramatic scenery really shines… just when it seemed the trip couldn’t get any better!

Portugal is a remarkable european destination, benefiting from warm and friendly locals truly happy to share their charming towns with culture-seeking travelers.

Let us know in the comments if you are researching a trip to Portugal, we would love to hear about your plans!

If you’ve already checked it off your travel wish list, what part of Portugal did you enjoy most?

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