France’s champagne region and city of Reims is just a 45 minute train ride north-east from Paris through the countryside. If you are visiting Paris and have time for a day trip, this is the perfect blend of history and gastronomy.
The iconic champagne houses, including Veuve Clicquot, Tattinger, and Pommery, are situated in the town of Reims. Ruinart is the oldest of the champagne houses, established in 1729, and is known for its blanc de blanc, a pure blend of Chardonnay grapes.
We decided to catch the train in the morning and visit two champagne houses. The trip was easy, we settled into our pre-assigned seats and soon were swaying along the tracks as the train sped through golden fields and open skies.
Once we pulled up to the train station I had read how important it was to quickly get in line at the taxi line up just outside the train station doors. It was true. There was a long line up already when we arrived.
Surrounded by tall stone walls, we pulled into the driveway of Maison Ruinart and were greeted by a friendly guard. All guests booked on a tour have their name on the list, no walk-ins allowed! Luckily, due to our advanced planning, we were invited to enter the gates and join a few fellow couples in the salon, elegantly decorated with renaissance paintings and some comfortable plush sofas.
Our chic french guide greeted us and started our visit by speaking about the history of Ruinart, pointing out the portraits of the founders. It was after Louis XV issued a decree allowing champagne to be distributed by bottles, and not just barrels, that Ruinart’s champagne gained popularity as business gifts to the cloth buyers, distributed through Dom Ruinart’s brother’s network as a cloth merchant.
Our first stop was a room filled with art – a modern tablescape with melting chandeliers by Dutch artist Maarten Baas; one of France’s earliest advertising posters with a woman provocatively showing off her shoulder by Czech illustrator Alphons Mucha; a replica of Louis XV’s commissioned “Le Déjeuner d’Huîtres” oil painting depicting an oyster feast in full swing with many of Ruinart’s recognizable round shaped champagne bottles.
This painting happens to be the first known piece of art to showcase champagne – can you look carefully and figure how they knew it was champagne featured at the party?
Finally someone in our group noticed the cork flying over the table, a telltale sign of the bubbles pressurized into the wine.
Throughout the entire tour our guide’s descriptions were interesting, engaging and thought provoking… she really knew her craft!
At this stage our guide offered the group a warm blanket as the cellars – les crayères – would be quite cold once we dropped 38 feet below ground, to an even temperature of 11-degrees Celsius. It was this attention to detail that really elevated the experience and made us feel taken care of and appreciative of the luxury in this world prestigious champagne house.
Down the steps we went into the cool dark tunnels, lit with a warm glow along the stairwell. Once we reached the lower level we could see through a window into the production facility as they corked each bottle.
Champagne has a two part fermentation process. Once the first fermentation is complete the neck of the bottle is frozen to create an ice plug, trapping the collected lees sediment. The plug is popped out before quickly re-corking the bottle for a second ferment to create those beautiful fine bubbles.
We were led through the dark halls of the cellars where rows and rows of champagne bottles were gently resting. A quiet setting with dim lighting is just what the champagne needs to mature into its wonderful flavor. As we walked deeper into the caves the bottles of champagne grew larger, and the rows grew deeper, grouped by various cuvée.
In one of the main cathedral-like chambers, the champagne bottles rest at an angle in large wooden trestles shapes like an M, where they are rotated or ‘remuaged’ a quarter turn, 2-3 times a day, to help the lees particles slowly make their way into the neck of the bottle. Madame Veuve Clicquot is credited with inventing the riddling rack. Premium cuvée continue to be rotated by hand.
The history of the cellars is fascinating. Originally old chalk quarries, the walls and large dome shaped rooms are all chiseled by hand. During World War I the main Ruinart house was tragically destroyed and so the offices were moved into the cellars, creating an underground bomb shelter where work could continue.
France’s champagne houses have a history of strong women entrepreneurs. In 1919 André Ruinart passed away leaving his widow Charlotte to run the estate. This is a similar tale to that of Madam Veuve Clicquot who had a huge influence on establishing and innovation in the champagne industry (and some say was rumored to have murdered her husband!). There must have been huge competition and drama between the champagne houses, this setting would make an exciting novel I’d like to read.
Finally we emerged into the sunlight and walked back across the grounds taking in the vast and elegant building and its perfectly manicured landscape. We re-gathered in the salon to savor some of the delicate champagne that had been resting in the caves just days prior..
Our host presented us with a choice of blanc de blanc or rosé, with two cuvées to sample. As we sipped, she joined us and described the flavor profiles, taking us through what to look for on the pallet and the subtle differences.
The blanc de blanc is Ruinart’s signature champagne, made entirely from Chardonnay grapes. It glows with a pale golden yellow color and very fine bubbles. The rosé, created since the 18th century, blends Chardonay with the addition of Pinot Noir.
This was a lovely way to experience the champagnes and we discussed as a group what we thought of each one, which we preferred, and where everyones’ travels had taken them. Finally our tour was complete and we couldn’t resist stopping into the store to bring a few bottles home with us, creating a very special memory of our visit to the one and only champagne region.
Sails & Spices Travel Tips
- Getting Around – When arriving at the train station be prepared for a long line up at the taxi stand. We took a taxi to get around and once we were done our tours, called one from the champagne house to get back into the town square where the train station was.
- Lunch – The champagne houses can be quite far apart and it’s a bit of a walk along the main road to get from place to place. We decided to book two tastings and in between it was a challenge finding somewhere for lunch. Next time I would pack a picnic if there isn’t ample time to find a restaurant. Note the main town square has lots of restaurants (although not a ton of vegetarian or vegan options – we settled for a veggie burger).
- Dress – It does get chilly down in the caves and there is a fair bit of walking, so dress accordingly for your comfort.
- Language – We took the tour in French and probably understood 80% of it, but being immersed in the French language added to the atmosphere and we felt we probably got a better tour in the guide’s native language.
- Book in advance! It’s no surprise the tours book up quickly especially in the summer time. We simply booked online.
Before I arranged this trip I had no idea the champagne region was so close to Paris. It turned out to be a very easy day trip from Paris. We were back in time for dinner and were thrilled to have experienced the Champagne region of France. What an experience!
Enjoying Your Champagne
- Serving – Serve your Champagne cold, between 7 to 10 °C / 45 to 50 °F. Chill your bottle in a bucket of water and ice for 30 minutes, or take your champagne out of a cold fridge for ~10 minutes before serving.
- Storing – For long term storage, champagne prefers a cool and dark location, with a consistent temperature of approximately 55 deg-F . Lay your bottles on their side so the cork doesn’t dry out. Only store your champagne for up to a couple days in a fridge before serving, or chill with ice.
- Pairings – Champagne pairs beautifully with most lighter meals. Brie cheese, strawberries and almonds are all classic pairings. Rich, buttery and salty foods will contrast nicely with the champagne’s light bubbles. Try our Spring Asparagus Risotto to enjoy with your next bottle.
- If you are looking to throw a cheese a wine party – don’t miss our comprehensive guide to The Ultimate Cheese and Wine Pairing Party.
If you love wine, we would highly recommend a visit to the Champagne region, just outside of Paris.
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Isle of Skye
When we received the invitation to visit Scotland for a dear friend’s wedding, we couldn’t resist the adventure. We were eager to explore stone castles and cobblestone streets and photograph scenic landscapes. The idea of little local pubs filled with fine scotches and live bands playing in front of the wood fire sounded like a perfect getaway.
Sandy Bell’s In Edinburgh
Pretty soon we had plans to start in Edinburgh and drive through the countryside to Isle of Skye, where we stayed on a local sheep croft. To conclude the trip we reunited with our friends for a traditional Scottish wedding complete with kilts and Cèilidh dancing, close to St. Andrews – home of the original golf course.
Our Scotland travel guide is a collection of our best research, personal experiences, and referrals for places to see, stay and eat (vegetarian!) covering Edinburgh to Isle of Skye.
Scotland’s incredible countryside had us pulling over every 5 minutes wanting to take another photograph. Visiting in October gave us gorgeous tones of gold and orange and we even spotted a beautiful buck with large antlers walking peacefully by the marsh. To our delight we also counted many hairy cows who were happy to pose for photographs.
The Highlights
- Edinburgh | Spend a few days in the capital, exploring one of Europe’s oldest cities. > VIEW THE CITY GUIDE
- Stirling & Callander | Two nice options for a quick stop, walk around, and refuel at a cafe.
- Glen Coe | Great hiking trails combined with charming B&Bs and pubs made this small town a great overnight destination.
- Eilean Donan Castle | The views of this picturesque castle can easily be enjoyed from the warmth of your dry car in the parking lot.
- Isle of Skye | Dramatic landscapes on this remote island set the stage for smokey whiskeys, stunning photography and moody scenery. The ultimate destination! > VIEW THE CITY GUIDE
On the Road – Points of Interest
Stirling & Callendar
Stirling is nice for quick stop after an hour of driving on the way to Glen Coe from Edinburgh. Small shops and cafes offer an opportunity to refill before the second leg of the journey. Stirling’s attractions include monuments, castles, as well as the site of the 1297 Battle of Stirling Bridge. If it’s not too early for a tipple of whisky, stop in at the Deanston Distillery.
Callendar is another quaint town that makes a pleasant stop along the drive with a few gift shops and nearby hiking trails.
Glen Coe
We chose Glen Coe as our place to spend the night on the way to Isle of Skye. Although it is possible to drive straight from Edinburgh to Isle Of Skye, it’s usually a nicer journey when you can go slow.
Stay:
Heather Lea Bed and Breakfast
RiverBeds Luxury Wee Lodges
Eat:
The Boots Bar, The Clachaig Inn
Glen Coe is a tiny little town nestled in the valley of several big mountains. By far our highlight was the vegetarian friendly pub, The Boots Bar, that our B&B recommended to us.
The Boots Bar appeared in our headlights after driving a few minutes down a dark and windy road. We dashed in from the wet and cold and were welcomed with a hot roaring fire, live music, and friendly locals hanging out with their dogs while enjoying dinner and playing pool. The menu include 4-5 veggie options, as well as local beer, fruit wines and ciders. Clachaig Inn also offers special whisky Master Classes if you decide to stay longer.
The Boots Bar, Glen Coe
Eilean Donan Castle
Eilean Donan Castle makes a pretty stop that’s easy to get to along the drive to Isle of Skye. The Castle is surrounded by a beautiful lake and mountains, and the scene changes depending on the tides and the clouds.
Isle of Skye
And after you make the windy drive past a million beautiful sights, bridges, lakes and waterfalls, you finally get to Isle of Skye, where everything has a little bit of that special glow. VIEW THE CITY GUIDE
What are your plans for visiting Scotland? If we were to change anything we probably would have spent more time in Isle of Skye since there is so much to explore and it takes a while to get there. Let us know your experiences!
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On Lonely Planet’s Best-in-Travel Top 10 Countries to Visit in 2018, Portugal is an explorer’s dream. Leave the research to us!
This exciting two week itinerary in Portugal will have you relaxing on magnificent beaches, sightseeing medieval cities, exploring quaint towns, and reveling in old world wines paired to plant-based cuisine. Hire a car for the gorgeous coastal roads and start the adventure through one of Europe’s best kept secrets.
Your Portugal getaway awaits,
Boa viagem!
Two Weeks in Portugal
- Lagos | (1 hour drive) Arrive into Faro airport and take the drive to Lagos
- Lagos | Enjoy Lagos’ beaches by boat with one of the many boat trips along the coast through the rocky grottos. Explore the walled old-town of Lagos with alfresco dining and a lively nightlife.
- Lagos | Suntan & picnic on the dramatic beaches around Lagos or explore the Algarve Coast by car
- Lisbon | (4 hour drive) Head north up the coast, taking plenty of stops along the windswept West Coast beaches until reaching Lisbon. Enjoy dinner and drinks in the charming Alfama or Bairro Alto neighborhoods of Lisbon.
- Lisbon | Sightsee for the day around Lisbon visiting centuries-old churches, grand monuments and quaint plazas. Take the tram to the historic seaside town of Belem and sample the famous Pasteis de Belem.
- Lisbon | Plan a day trip to the whimsical Pena Palace and Moorish Castle in in Sintra.
- Obidos | (1 hour drive) Spend the night in Obidos, a charming medieval town set inside the stone walls of a grand castle.
- Douro Valley | (5 hour drive) Drive to the scenic Douro Valley, where the roads wind through mountain passes and serpentine valleys filled with heritage vineyards, set along the gorgeous Douro River.
- Douro Valley | Sip magnificent wold-world wine in the finest Quintas of the Douro Valley. Enjoy a chef-prepared locally grown lunch set in a spectacular vineyard overlooking the Douro river
- Douro Valley | In the morning, ride a Rabelo boat up the Douro River. Spend the afternoon relaxing poolside. Wine and dine with a muilt-course wine pairing, served in an 18th century manor.
- Porto | (3 hour drive) Drive to Porto in the morning and wander the colorful town to admire exquisitely tiled churches, an acclaimed bookstore and a picturesque train station.
- Porto | Walk over a world-famous bridge and take the Teleferico de Gaia to Vila Novo de Gaia to visit the Port Cellars for their informative tours and delicious Port wine tasting.
- Fly home from the Porto Airport
- Your Choice | One extra day to spend how you choose
A Vegetarian Guide to Lagos
A charming and lively beach town on the Algarve Coast, Lagos is popular with students and tourists drawn to the dramatic coastal caves and secluded beaches. The perfect place to start the trip and rest on the beach to get into vacation mode.
Stay: Pick an AirBnB rental in the center of the old town.
Read Your Complete Vegetarian Guide to Lagos
Lisbon City Guide
Get out on foot with your camera and explore this lovely city of neighborhoods, bringing together a collection of wine and tapas bars tucked among historic buildings on old cobbled streets.
Stay: Fontecruz Lisboa, Autograph Collection
Read Your Complete Guide to Lisbon City
Pastries and Parapetes in Belem
Just a quick 20 minute tram ride from Lisbon, Belem is a charming seaside destination with stunning architecture and delicious local pastries that the crowds come flocking for. Cafes selling various Pasteis de Belem can be found all over Portugal but the original flakey custard pastries hail from a small cafe in Belem, where the recipe has been kept top secret since 1837!
Day Trip: Ride Tram 15 to Belem and delight in the original Pasteis de Belem.
Read Your Complete Guide to Belem
Pena Palace in Sintra
A short day trip from Lisbon, this fairy tale land feels miles away. A crumbling stone Moorish Castle counterbalances the over-the-top and whimsical Pena Palace set atop the hills within a vast 200 hectare forest.
Day Trip: Visit the beautiful Pena Palace
Read Your Complete Guide to Pena Palace in Sintra
Sipping Ginja in Obidos
– OR – Pousada Castelo Óbidos Historic Hotel
Read Your Complete Guide to Sipping Ginja in Obidos
A Wine Lover’s Dream in Douro
A Romantic Weekend in Porto
Porto’s magnetism pulls at you with its old world charm. Gorgeous architecture transforms simple bookstores, cafes, churches and train stations into marvels just waiting to be discovered. In Nova de Gaia, large wooden barrels of Port wine float down the river on old Rabelo boats. They arrive from the nearby Douro Valley to be cellared for years (if not decades) before being enjoyed in one of Porto’s many wine lodges.
Stay in Style: InterContinental Porto – Palacio das Cardosas
Read Your Complete Guide to Porto City
Route Map
The entire route is approximately 12-14 hours of drive time from Lagos to Porto. It’s worth it to take the scenic route up the west coast from Lisbon. Stop along the way at the dramatic Arrifana beach, in Aljezur to explore a tenth century castle, see the expansive curved beach in Odeceixe, and visit the brightly painted town of Porto Covo.
Based from Lisbon you can visit Belem, Sintra, the Boca do Inferno in Cascais, and even Comporta as great day trips. Obidos is charming stopover on the way to the Douro Valley and Porto, where the dramatic scenery really shines… just when it seemed the trip couldn’t get any better!
Portugal is a remarkable european destination, benefiting from warm and friendly locals truly happy to share their charming towns with culture-seeking travelers.
Let us know in the comments if you are researching a trip to Portugal, we would love to hear about your plans!
If you’ve already checked it off your travel wish list, what part of Portugal did you enjoy most?
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In this travel guide we share all our favorite sights in the city to help plan your perfect weekend away. Check out the interactive map at the end of this post with all our recommendations!
There is so much to see and do in Porto. As a suggested itinerary, start by sightseeing the many landmarks in the city. In the afternoon, enjoy the views and walk over the Dom Luis I Bridge to Gaia. The gondolas, Teleferico de Gaia, are definitely worth the ride down, even if you are a little scared of heights.
On this side of the river you can arrange tours to visit the cellars, or Port Lodges, where Port is aged. In our opinion, the best way to enjoy the evening is with some glasses of Port wine and cheese pairings along the waterfront. Muito Romantico!
Our Favorite Sights in Porto
Church of Santo Ildefonso | One of the most beautiful blue-tiled churches in Porto.
Lello Bookstore | Rumored to be a source of inspiration for Harry Potter, this bookstore is so famous you’ll need a ticket to get in.
Sao Bento Railway Station | This train station is worth a visit just to see the stories and history depicted on all the hand painted tiles.
Liberdade Square | Porto’s central square surrounded by beautiful buildings and close to many other sights in the city.
Capela de Santa Catarina | Another beautiful church featuring stunning tile work.
Torre dos Clérigos | Climb the steps for an unmatched 360 degree view of Porto from inside the tower.
Ribeira District | A riverside neighborhood across from Gaia with cobbled streets and colorful houses.
The Porto Cathedral | Fantastic views of the city from the cathedral walls.
Best Port Cellars to Visit
Once the Port wine is harvested and bottled in the Douro Valley, it’s brought to Porto to be aged in the cellars. Traditionally, the Port wine barrels were carried down the Douro River in Rabelo boats.
The Port Lodges are located in Vila Novo de Gaia. There are many to choose from, some offer a great cellar tour, while others feature the best riverfront patio for Port wine tasting and watching the world go by.
- Sandeman | Cellar tours & a beautiful riverside patio with delicious Port cocktails and cheese pairings.
- Grahams 1890 Lodge | An impressive, historic lodge with cellar tours & a tasting room. By reservation only.
- Churchill | A short and informative cellar tour & a garden patio overlooking the river.
- Ramos Pinto | Popular tour with tasting included, indoor seating only.
Since we were there to celebrate my birthday, we decided to sit on the sunny patio and order the 30 year old reserve Port and a cheese plate to share. Porto is a great place to visit for any special occasion!
Sails & Spices’ Favorite Places
Porto is one of Portugal’s most popular cities and it’s easy to see why. During our visit the city’s charm won us over and left us wanting more time to enjoy this beautiful place. We will be back! Is Porto on your wish list of cities to visit?
Portugal City Guides
We highly recommend visiting the Douro Valley from Porto, it makes a great day trip or you can even go for a few nights. In this post A Wine Lover’s Dream in the Douro Valley we share tips & photos of one of the most beautiful wine regions in the world!
If you are planning a trip around Portugal, check out the rest of Sails & Spices Portugal City Guides:
- Sipping Ginja in Obidos
- Lisbon City Guide
- Pena Palace in Sintra
- Pastries and Parapetes in Belem
- A Vegetarian Guide to Lagos
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Quinta Nova
We were on a mission to find the perfect stay in a European wine country. Our dreams of relaxing by the pool, overlooking rows of age-old vines, and getting to know the nuances of their fabulous wines were vivid… we just needed to know where.
Read on to learn how we decided on Portugal’s Douro Valley, and get our travel guide to the best Quintas & places to stay…
Casa Do Visconde De Chaceleiros
The European Wine Experience
Popular films like ‘Under the Tuscan Sun’ and ‘Stealing Beauty’ have created a fairytale of the Tuscan summer dream. The allure has proved infectious, and now over 40 million tourists flock to Italian Tuscany each year to explore the sunbaked landscape and enjoy its world renowned wines. France’s Bordeaux and Champagne are equally famous, and most deserving of their own dedicated and thorough exploration.
These are bucket-list trips to be sure, akin to a wine lover’s pilgrimage, but the savvy traveler will know to pick their dates carefully. During the high season the traditional locales of a European wine-lover’s dream can become both crowded and costly as you compete with all the other visitors chasing the same vision of paradise. These are gorgeous areas, famous for a reason and worth visiting in a lifetime, but there are other jewels still waiting to be discovered.
To the west is a true hidden gem… featuring equally complex yet lesser known old-world wines, served with the most generous of hospitality against a backdrop of incredible landscapes. Holding a prime location on Europe’s far west coast, Portugal delivers all the tenets of the authentic European vineyard dream, and it remains yours to discover.
Gateways to the region, Portugal’s capital Lisbon (a scenic 4 hour drive to the Douro Valley) and Porto (1.5 hours) are each impressive cities in their own right. Both are easily accessible from within Europe or major airport hubs around the world. If you need to mix water with your wine, tie in the Algarve on Portugal’s south coast for some absolutely incredible beaches. You will have yourself a dream holiday!
The Douro Valley
Famous for its Port, and increasingly recognized for its impeccable and complex table wines, the Douro Valley is a stunning landscape of old stone terrace vineyards built up from the banks of the winding Douro River. The grapevines are planted on steep hills of schist rock and grow under the hot Portuguese sun. The harsh terroir makes the vines struggle to break through the rock, resulting in a lower yield of more flavorful grapes. The harvest is still picked by hand each year as tractors cannot fit on the very narrow terraces, often wide enough for only one row!
A UNESCO World Heritage Site with a rich history, the Douro Valley has been perfecting its wines for the last three hundred years. In fact, it was the world’s first demarcated regulated wine region. This means true Port can only come from the Douro Valley, much like Champagne can only come from Champagne… so do not be fooled by unregulated port-style imposters.
The Douro wine region is made up of three sub-regions. The Upper Corgo is recommended if you are looking to visit a number of excellent wineries, or Quintas, in close proximity.
- Baixo Corgo (Lower Corgo) | The smallest region, producing early maturing, inexpensive ruby and tawny ports.
- Cima Corgo (Upper Corgo) | The largest region, centered by the town of Pinhao, featuring famous vineyards with many excellent ports.
- Douro Superior (Upper Douro or New Douro) | The least accessible region, with only a few wineries but some of the finest ports.
Port Wines
If you have ever enjoyed a great glass of Port as an aperitif, or to complete a meal with a selection of cheeses, you know the allure of this intensely flavored fortified wine.
Port wines are made from a number of grape varietals, vintages, and blends. To make Port, winemakers add a neutral grape brandy, aguardente, during the fermentation process. This addition stops the fermentation of the natural grape juice sugars and results in the Port wine’s distinct sweetness.
- White Port | Lightly golden, made from white grapes primarily from the upper slopes. Fruity and full-bodied. Aged for 2-3 years and can be dry or semi-sweet.
- Ruby Port | Beautiful ruby red color with strong notes of fresh fruit. Youthful, approachable and versatile with firm tannins. Aged no more than 3 years in barrels, ready to drink young.
- Aged Tawny Port | Amber or garnet in color. Rich and mellow with nutty and caramel flavors. Made from multiple vintages. Aged 3 years in smaller barrels where some oxidization can occur, then casked and aged for 10, 20 or 30+ years before being blended and bottled.
- Late-Bottled Vintage Ports or Reserve Port | Deep red color. A complex berry or plum taste. Single year vintage, aged 4-6 years in barrels.
- Vintage Port | Dark ruby color. Premium and complex, with character. Made from a blend of the finest grapes within a vintage year. Vintage years are only declared by the Port Wine Institute for outstanding regional harvests, typically every 3 out of 10 years. Aged 2 years in barrels, and 20-50 years in bottle.
Of course, true Port wine can only be labelled as such if produced entirely of grapes grown in the Douro Valley. The numbered label is a verification of authenticity, and is tightly controlled by the Port Wine Institute. If there is no numbered label, it isn’t Port wine.
The Douro Valley also produces an extensive range of great table wines (Douro Wines) which benefit from the same environment that make the exceptional and flavorful Port. Douro wines are quickly gaining notoriety and can account for 30-50% of the production of many Quintas.
Where to stay in the Douro Valley
To enjoy a week in Douro nothing is more fitting than staying in a gorgeous family manor where you can relax by the pool while enjoying amazing vineyard views. Each day your biggest choice will be which of the many Quintas nearby you’ll visit, before you finish the evening with a long multi-course dinner paired with local wines and shared conversations among new friends.
Casa Do Visconde De Chaceleiros
Casa Do Visconde De Chaceleiros, near Pinhao, is the perfect accommodation. An impeccable 18th century manor is set amongst beautifully manicured grounds filled with gardens, a pool with a view, tennis court, hot tub, sauna and, of course, a help-yourself bar.
Every evening, out of a magnificent chef’s kitchen, the charming staff serve a three-course meal complete with local wine pairings while you gaze upon the view from the second floor terrace. Vegetarians are generously accommodated with divine home-cooked Portuguese dishes that spare no effort. Dinner reservations are confirmed daily in advance, so if you wish to dine in for dinner on your first night it is best to confirm this when booking your stay. Many, as we did, will choose to dine in each evening.
The Deluxe Room is your choice for the ultimate getaway, though none of the accommodations will disappoint. Separate from the other guest rooms, the deluxe rooms feature two levels, a European queen sized bed, soaker bathtub with a view and a small private patio surrounded by lavender, rosemary, and vineyard views.
A Day of Wine Tasting
If you are in the Douro Valley then wine tasting is no doubt at the top of your to-do list. The vineyard views are stunning, and the selection of Port and Douro Wines is fantastic!
When considering your plans, we do not recommend driving the in Douro Valley if you plan on wine tasting! The roads to many Quintas are extremely steep and winding. Only one lane wide in many areas, and often featuring no guard rails to the valley below, the drive through Douro’s backroads can be quite exhilarating! Instead of going it alone, invest to spend the day with a private driver or a guide. Tastings in Douro are generous and unhurried affairs, so even though they are located seemingly close together, visiting two to three Quintas is rather ambitious for a single day.
Many of the best Quintas absolutely require reservations for tours and tastings. You may be accustomed to wine regions where it is possible to arrive at the tasting room counter at any time during business hours and be served. Since many Quintas are family-run and without large commercial tasting rooms, making a reservation in advance will ensure your experience is tailored for you and most memorable.
Where to visit in the Douro Valley
To help plan your day of tastings, we’ve included the names of some of the very best luxury wineries & restaurants (as well as the best boat tour) in the area:
- Rabelo Boat Tour (Tour) | Rabelo boats are the traditional vessels historically used to take the barrels of Port down the river from the Douro Valley to the city of Porto, where they are cellar aged. Short tours up the river are available from Pinhao with Magnifico Douro. Tours leave from the Magnifico Douro pier in front of the Vintage House hotel, and cost 10€ cash per person (2016).
- Quinta do Crasto | An incredible location for the most luxurious lunch with wine pairings. This was one of our favorites with its beautiful setting, delicious vegetarian food, and exceptional wines. Not only specializing in wines, Quinta do Crasto also grow their own incredible almonds and olives on site. Be sure to leave enough time during your visit to enjoy the impressive views from the turquoise pool, one of the best in the valley.
- Quinta Nova | Fantastic wine and port tastings, with three tasting experiences to choose from (24€-74€, 2016). The Quinta has a lovely view, and offers an onsite hotel and pool (for guests). Take advantage of the winery tour, sunset tasting served with appetizers, or a luxurious 3-course vegetarian meal.
- Quinta do Panascal | A small winery specializing in Port wines, with optional ‘reserve tastings’. Owned by the Fonseca brand which is internationally recognized for excellent Ports. For 7€ (2016) you can take the independent guided audio tour through the vineyards and enjoy three Port samples. It can get very hot in the summer, so good footwear and a hat is recommended.
- Quinta do Seixo | Sandeman’s award-winning winery offers tours of the impressive production facilities and welcomes thousands of visitors each year. Choose between tours like the Vau Vintage Tour where you can learn about the history of the winery and sample 5 wines in a private setting (€ 16.00 in 2016) or go on the Wineyard Tour and take a guided walk through the vineyard, learning about the 100-year old grapes and the unique terainne of the Douro Valley (€ 18.00 in 2016)
- Quinta do Popa | A small family run vineyard that comes well recommended. This vineyard is special because of the beautiful picnic baskets they offer that you can take out and enjoy in the vineyard with some wine and a nice view. This Quinta also offers beautiful lunch or brunch experiences with wine tasting. Bookings are essential for tastings and experiences.
- DOC (Restaurant) | A luxury high-end restaurant with the choice of elegant dishes or a chef’s tasting menu with wine pairings, located in a beautiful setting next to the river.
On the drive into the Douro Valley
- Quinta da Pacheca – This is one of the oldest wineries in the region and still family run. Make a reservation to take one of the informative tours to learn the history of the estate, visit the cellars, and taste the selection of wines. There is a boutique hotel on the property and some vegetarian options available in the restaurant.
- Six Senses Douro Valley (Hotel) | A luxury hotel suited for an outstanding stay. This unique property offers an organic garden, swimming pools, great views, spa, and an exquisite chef’s tasting experience.
An elegant lunch at Quinta do Crasto
One of the best infinity pools in the valley – Quinta do Crasto
September and October is harvest time in the Douro Valley and this is a great time to visit! Sign up for some truly unique experiences, such as hand picking grapes in the vineyards or pressing them in the winepress. Of course, plenty of incredible table wines and Ports will be on hand to reward your hard work.
Sails & Spices Port Pairing Tips
How could we talk about the beautiful Douro Valley and its delicious Ports without sharing some pairing tips to enjoy at home?
- White Port | Enjoy as an aperitif before dinner, mix with tonic and a sprig of mint for a refreshing summer cocktail, or try a fresh take on sangria with Portuguese White Port Sangria.
- Ruby Port or Late-Bottled Vintage Ports | Beautiful after dinner with berry deserts, complimenting with strong notes of fresh berry flavors. Excellent with a rich dark chocolate mousse or homemade brownie.
- Aged Tawny Port | Bring out the Tawny Port’s caramel and toasted nut flavors with cheeses, toasted nuts, spiced apple pie and vanilla ice-cream, or a caramelized crème brûlée.
- Vintage Port | The finest of all, a Vintage Port has the complexity of flavors and distinction to be savored alone. It may be traditionally paired with Stilton cheese, salted walnuts, or chestnuts and dark chocolate.
Final Words
If you are still considering where to spend your next wine holiday, Portugal’s Douro Valley is a hidden gem that’s been producing excellent wine and ports for centuries. Our time in Douro exceeded every expectation and we could not have been more spoiled by the Portuguese hospitality and generosity. The visit was truly special.
Let us know if you have any questions we can help answer, and if you’ve been to the Douro Valley please leave us a note in the comments with your top tips for our next visit!
Portugal City Guides
If you are planning a trip around Portugal, check out the rest of Sails & Spices Portugal City Guides:
- A Romantic Weekend in Porto
- Sipping Ginja in Obidos
- Lisbon City Guide
- Pena Palace in Sintra
- Pastries and Parapetes in Belem
- A Vegetarian Guide to Lagos
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Gather the family around, this pierogi recipe is pure tradition. Always on the table in numbers for Thanksgiving, Christmas, and Easter celebrations of Eastern European families and their descendants, these ubiquitous potato and cheese dumplings are a humble delicacy made with plenty of love.
Dating back to 13th century Ukraine and Poland, pierogi (or piroghi, pirogi, perogi, perogy, pirohi, pirogen, pierogy, pirohy, pyrohy, pyrohe, varenyki, varenyky) have as many variations as they do names. Made with an unleavened dough (no yeast is used) they are best rolled and individually filled by hand. Pierogi are right at home in the slow food revolution.
While potato and cottage (farmer’s) cheese is the most common variety in North America, vegans and vegetarians have full license to experiment with their filling of choice. Consider this recipe your springboard. The vegan combination of cabbage, sauerkraut, and mushroom is still one of the most popular variations in eastern Poland.
One thing is for certain, pierogi making is about community. Friends, parents, cousins, aunts, uncles, siblings, and grandparents all circle around and have a job on the assembly line. The result is simple, wholesome, and delicious.
If your family is anything like ours, book the day to the task… Festivities begin early with an ice-cold shot of vodka and won’t finish until late in the evening after you’ve negotiated for the leftovers.
Since the family’s around to chop veggies with you, serve alongside Grandma’s Doukhobor Borscht.
Cheers!
Traditional Ukrainian Potato Pierogi
Homemade Pierogi with a traditional unleavened dough and potato, onion and cottage cheese filling. Recipe passed down for generations, perfect for a celebration feast. Recipe makes approximatly 70 pierogi.
Dough x 2 (Make two batches of dough, separately, or halve the filling)
- 3 cups 400g all purpose flour, spooned into measure and leveled
- 1.5 tsp sea salt
- 1 organic egg
- 2 tbs olive oil
- 1 cup warm water
Potato Filling
- 1.5 Kilo russet potatoes*
- 2 whole cloves of garlic (peeled)
- 1 tsp sea salt
- 1/2 onion (diced (If you are serving the Pierogi right away, sauté 1 whole onion and reserve half for serving))
- 1 tbsp olive oil
- 1.5 cups 1 lb./454 g dry cottage cheese**
- Salt and Pepper
To Serve
- 1/2 onion (diced)
- 1 tablespoon of olive oil
- Sour cream/Greek Yogurt (optional)
- Chives (optional)
Dough
- In a large bowl, mix flour and salt.
- In a smaller bowl, beat egg. Add olive oil and warm water, and whisk together.
- Pour liquid, reserving 2 tablespoons, into the flour.
- Combine using a fork, and knead gently until the dough comes together, without over mixing. Add reserve liquid only if needed.
- Make 3 dough balls, and place in a lightly floured bowl. Cover and rest at room temperature for 1 hour.
Potato Filling
- Peel potatoes, and boil in a large pot with garlic cloves and sea salt. Cook until soft but not water logged.
- While the potatoes are boiling, sauté 1/2 onion with olive oil. Cover the onions with a lid if they start to dry out before cooking through.
- Drain and mash the potatoes.
- Add onion and cottage cheese to mashed potatoes.
- Salt and pepper to taste.
Making the Pierogi
- On a lightly floured surface, roll out dough to 3mm (1/8″) thick.
- Using a 75m (3″) inch ring or glass, press out circles into the dough.
- Pinch and stretch each circle, thinning out the dough and increasing the size slightly.
- Place 1 tablespoon of potato filling onto the center of the circle.
- Fold over to create a half circle, bringing two edges up around the filling to meet at the top, and press down either side, sealing the filling in the dough.
- Dough trimmings can be lightly kneaded and re-rolled once, but any more will harden the dough.
- Place Pirogi on parchment or wax paper on a baking tray. Pierogi can be flash frozen on the tray and then stored in ziplock bags until ready to cook & serve.
To Serve
- Bring a large pot of water to boil.
- Meanwhile, sauté onion in oil until soft and they start to turn golden.
- Add Pierogi (fresh or frozen) and boil until they begin to float. If boiling from fresh, be sure pierogi have not stuck to the bottom of the pot.
- Drain well and sauté until golden.
- Serve with cooked onions, and if you like, sour cream and chives.
*Use Russet or another of your favorite mash/high-starch potato
**Instead of dry Cottage Cheese, you can use regular and drain excess liquid using a cheesecloth
Lisbon is a city of neighborhoods waiting to be discovered and explored. Panoramic views are around every corner. The city is spread across seven hills, giving stunning views over the red rooftops and plazas towards the Tagus River (Río Tajo) as it empties into the Atlantic ocean.
After walking up all those hills, there is no shortage of wine bars, tapas lounges, and terrace cafés to refuel you. You can explore by foot, tuk-tuk, or take the historic trams through the old winding and beautifully cobbled streets.
In this city guide we share our favorite attractions, wine bars & best vegetarian place to eat. Keep scrolling to the end of the post for a map with all our recommendations listed…
BAIXA
Baixa, Lisbon’s city center, is the first city in the modern age developed in a grid format, an update made during the rebuild after the devastating earthquake of 1755. Featuring several gorgeous squares of mosaic cobbles, fountains, and the bustle of vendors we found great joy in simply walking amongst the colorful buildings and admiring the details.
If your trip dates align, be sure to visit the market in Figueira Square on the last weekend of every month. Browse the paintings or crafts, while nibbling on fruits, local cheeses, fresh breads and cured meats. This was our first encounter with the deliciously sour, sweet, and refreshing liqueur called Ginjinha, or Ginja, served in small chocolate cups as is the tradition in Obidos.
While sangria is most often associated with the Spanish, do not be mistaken… Portugal will give them a run for their money any day! While walking among the market stalls we came across our new favourite… White Port Sangria. Mint and cinnamon? Who knew!
Figueira Square is also the terminus where you’ll get your best chance to catch the busy tram 15 to Belém and try the famous custard tarts, Pastéis de Belém. While tram 15 isn’t your only transport to Belém, it’s the most iconic. If you simply can’t make it, the historic Rossio Square is one location where you’ll find a café serving fresh Pastéis de Nata, based on a similar recipe.
If you’re anything like us, once you try one you’ll have to compare both… alternating back and forth throughout your stay to find the ‘true winner’. Good luck!
Praça do Comércio is a majestic square with the stunning and very photogenic Arco da Rua Augusta. Located by the river it feels like the gateway to the city. Tram 15 does stop in front of the Arch, but in high season you are likely to just watch it roll by, completely full.
While in town, check the calendar as there is often some manner of festivities taking place here. We were lucky to soak up some Euro 2016 action playing on a huge screen while locals and tourists alike ate, drank, and cheered their loudest “Força Portugal!”.
EDUARDO VII PARK
If the Praça do Comércio is the gateway arch to the bottom of city, The Eduardo VII Park at the top of the Avenue de Liberdade, is surely its crown with panoramic views over the whole city.
We recommend packing your walking shoes, picking an end and making your way from one to the other. You could begin at the arch you and walk past the outdoor cafes, flea market stalls and designer stores. At the top of Eduardo VII Park you will be rewarded with stunning views of Lisbon and the accomplishment of a nice hill climb. This is a great location to get a work out in, running up and down the park three to five times will get you breathing and your calves burning!
If that’s a bit over ambitious, take a tuk-tuk or taxi to the top and work your way back down with a glass of wine at the river as your reward.
ALFAMA
We found Alfama to be a charming neighborhood to explore and walk around, though be forewarned… It’s full of steep streets and cobbled stone steps. It is the oldest district in Lisbon, least affected by the earthquake of 1755, and boasts some gorgeous tiled homes, their fresh washing drying in the Atlantic breeze.
The shady open-air café next to the Monastery of São Vicente de Fora is a nice place to get a view of the city and the old Sao Jorge castle walls. Wine bars tucked along the streets have hundreds of wines lining the walls, and can be enjoyed by the glass or by the bottle. If you are lucky you might catch a small parade or other festivities winding through the streets in this quaint area, particularly in June when the patron saints like Santo Antonio are celebrated.
BAIRRO ALTO
Bairro Alto is a fantastic stop for happy hour and its vibrant nightlife. Start at the beautiful old church of São Roque and walk down the narrow and twisting pedestrian streets, passing the purveyors of wine and tapas.
You never know what you will find. One afternoon we found turned a corner to see a gorgeous yellow tram and a couple dozen folks laughing and drinking alongside the tracks. Well, poke your head through the half-height stone door beside them and you’ll find one-euro beers being served for alley-side enjoyment. We enjoyed our drinks and the atmosphere outside on the steps as the tram came and went every couple of minutes, navigating the steep climb on behalf of its weary passengers. (This charming street was known as the Bica Elevator, check our map at the end of the post for the exact location!)
Simply being is a lovely way to spend a relaxed late afternoon in Bairro Alto.
Best Wine Bars & Vegetarian Friendly Places to Eat
- Primo Basilico | Pizza with vegetarian & vegan options
- The Food Temple | A cozy find for some healthy vegetarian or vegan food
- Estrela da Bica | Low key with a bohemian vibe, good wine list, and lots vegetarian options
- Terra | Award winning vegetarian restaurant with a calm garden setting
- Jardim dos Sentidos | A charming restaurant with tasty and innovative vegetarian food and a beautiful garden
- BA Wine Bar do Bairro Alto | A tiny and trendy wine bar, worth making the necessary reservations to enjoy the huge selection of Portuguese wines and cheese pairings
- The CorkScrew | A nice wine bar to spend the afternoon or evening watching the people go by through, trying from hundreds of wines, and enjoying tasty tapas.
Our Thoughts
Lisbon is a modern European city with all the amenities, but it proceeds at its own pace and enjoys a somewhat laid-back west coast style. Meals are long unhurried affairs and even the most popular attractions boast queues no where near the length you come to expect in major Euro enters.
This city is so friendly and hospitable to travellers (budget conscious adventurers can enjoy some of the world’s best-rated hostels) we wished we had more than three nights to soak up the atmosphere.
While many who visit Lisbon have been known to scrap their day trips to keep exploring the city, it is an iconic melting pot of all that is great about Portugal and the country that deserve your exploration. Nearby, be sure to check out the pastries and Torre de Bélem, the growling Boca do Inferno, the fairy tale castles of Sintra, and sip ginja in the the medieval town of Obidos.
Have you visited Lisbon and know of a hidden gem? Are you planning a visit and need a tip? Let us know below…
PORTUGAL CITY GUIDES
If you are planning a trip around Portugal, check out the rest of Sails & Spices Portugal City Guides:
- A Romantic Weekend in Porto
- A Wine Lover’s Dream in the Douro Valley
- Sipping Ginja in Obidos
- Pena Palace in Sintra
- Pastries and Parapetes in Belem
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