When we were planning our trip to Portugal, as soon as we saw Pena Palace we just knew we had to visit. Where else in the world can you find such a colorful fantasy palace right next to an old medieval stone castle? These are the sites of legends and fairy tales. Only 30 minutes out of Lisbon, there is really no excuse to miss it.
Not ones to settle for the bus, we decided to hike up through the forest to the palace. Expect a good 1.5 hour climb, taking time for pictures, and another 45 minutes just to find the trail head when you first reach town. Our day was a summer cooker, but it felt like quite an accomplishment when we reached the top and could see the Castle of the Moors looming behind us.
The Pena Palace is whimsical and immaculately detailed, a UNESCO world heritage site, known for its romantic style architecture. As you walk around the palace walls, there is an impressive view of the Castle of the Moors with the valley below. From the palace terrace, arches frame the view out towards the ocean.
Walking through the inside of the palace is a journey back in time. All the rooms and have been preserved so you can peek in on the interior decor of ancient kings and queens. Walk the grand dining room, the royal quarters, and the best part, the huge chefs kitchen… filled to the brim with copper cookware and everything you can imagine to cook a huge feast.
Some tips for visiting The Pena Palace and Castle of the Moors in Sintra:
- Plan for a long day if you are going to hike up the hill to visit both the Pena Place and Moore Castle. It is a long walk up, and they are not immediately adjacent (read, more walking to get to the second stop). Combination tickets are available.
- The hike up through the forest was a highlight, and on the way down you can take convertible buggy for around 5-euro p.p. which raced us back down the narrow streets to the town of Sintra in about 10 minutes.
- Avoid going on the weekends if you want to miss the crowds, so much as is possible. During the week parking is relatively easy. We had read recommendations to park in the outskirts of town, fearing no spaces and steep one-way streets. This advice was a bit overkill, as arriving by 10:00am into Sintra on a Monday there were parking spots at the castle once we finally made it to the top.
PORTUGAL CITY GUIDES
Portugal is filled with medieval castles of an age gone by, which is part of what makes it so unique and fun to visit. Sintra is a great day trip from Lisbon, especially if you are staying in Lisbon 3 days or more.
If you are planning a trip around Portugal, check out the rest of Sails & Spices Portugal City Guides:
- A Romantic Weekend in Porto
- A Wine Lover’s Dream in the Douro Valley
- Sipping Ginja in Obidos
- Lisbon City Guide
- Pastries and Parapetes in Belem
This trip has inspired me visit the amazing castles and palaces in places like India, Moscow and France.
Have you visited any castles that you thought were really impressive that we need to check out? Let me know in the comments!
]]>
If you want to try some great wines, head to Portugal! An under-recognized old-world wine producer, Portugal has been exporting wines since at least 1679, and is home of the fortified and complexly sweet Port. Young Port wines are easy on the pocketbook, and make an excellent Port Sangria, a local favourite…
When Port’s popularity rose with the British in 1700s, regulations were put in place to protect the production of authentic Douro Port. Today, true Port only originates from the Douro Valley, Portugal, much like you can only get Champagne from Champagne, France. There are however many ‘port-style’ wines produced globally. True Ports use a blend of grapes (no mono-varietals), and add a fortifying grape spirit (not brandy) during fermentation. The addition of the grape spirit allows it to be converted to alcohol while sparing the natural sweetness of the Duoro grapes.
We learnt all this and more during a once in a lifetime visit to Portugal’s Douro Valley, a UNESCO World Heritage site. The terraced valley is absolutely stunning to see. Photos simply cannot do it justice, and certainly do little to convey the unforgettable food, wine, and hospitality.
Port wine is served all throughout Portugal, and on one of our first days in Lisbon we were wandering through the city and stumbled upon a lively outdoor market with cheese and meat delicacies, and huge jugs of Port Sangria.
The White Port Sangria was exceptional, a delicate mix of flavors and sweetness while still being refreshing. We each ordered a large cup and asked the host to tell us how we could replicate it for our friends back home!
Nothing beats sightseeing in Lisbon with a cup of fruity Portuguese Sangria. It’s just what you need to cool off and relax before heading off on Tram 15 to Belém to try the famous Pastéis de Belém.
Once you have tried the recipe for yourself, let us know what you think in the comments below!
Portuguese White Port Sangria
This is a delicious Sangria made with White Port. It can be made with authentic Portuguese Port, or just Port-style wine. It has a delicate mix of flavors and sweetness while still being refreshing.
- 2 cinnamon sticks
- 5 branches of mint
- 1- pint strawberries (sliced)
- 2 oranges (chopped into round slices and quartered)
- 1 bottle white port-style wine
- 2 cans of sparkling water (or club soda)
- Ice
- Place the cinnamon sticks, mint leaves, strawberries and oranges into a large jug.
- Pour in the white port wine
- Stir and chill for one to two hours
- Immediately before serving, fill to the brim with sparking water and give a delicate stir
- Serve over ice in wine or rocks glasses
- Enjoy!
]]>
It’s exciting planning a trip to Rottnest Island, or Rotto, as the locals call it. You know you’re in for an amazing day! There’s no wonder it was recently voted the Top Destinations in Australia to Experience. After a short Rottnest Express ferry ride from Perth or Fremantle, pick up your bike and a sandwich and spend the day exploring. Along the way you will find the most serene, deserted beaches. Take a dip, and savour the sparkling turquoise views… all while knowing there is an ice-cold cider and some cute little quokkas waiting for you at the pub when you finish your ride.
What could be better? The views are incredible, the water perfect hues of blues, and the beaches never crowded.
GETTING THERE
You can sense the excitement when you get to the B-Shed docks at Fremantle, 30 minutes from Perth. Friends and families gather and enjoy a coffee and a pastry as they get their tickets and wait for the ferry to arrive. Those going to Rottnest for several days all have coolers full of supplies to last them while they stay in one of the cottages spotted around the island.
The ferry takes about 25 minutes and before you know it, you are pulling up to the crystal clear waters of Thompson Bay. If you have your own bike this can easily be loaded onto the ferry (for a fee). Otherwise, include a bike rental with your ferry ticket and your rusty trusty bike will be there waiting for you on the pier when you arrive on Rottnest Island.
GETTING AROUND
The biggest choice you are going to have to make all day is deciding if you want to start your ride around the island clockwise or counterclockwise. The second biggest is which of the 60+ beaches you want to stop at for a swim. With no cars on the island, a bicycle is a great way to get around. Be prepared for a few steep climbs up the rolling hills and enjoy soaring down the other side. It is all so worth it.
TO-DO
Rottnest has a calm and relaxed vibe to it, a place where kids can run free and time holds still. Just don’t miss the ferry back! While you are there you feel a million miles away from Perth, even though you can just see it floating on the horizon. Riding along it’s only a matter of time before you spot a Quokka. Quokkas are the cutest little marsupials, a tiny relative of the Kangaroo. They are ridiculously friendly, and will come over for a visit if you stop your bike to say hi.
BEACHES
The best part of Rottnest is finding your favorite beach… often you will be the only person there. The water is a hundred shades of brilliant blues and invites you in with a siren’s song. Some of our absolute favorites are Little Parakeet Bay, the Grand Basin, Parker Point, and Salmon Bay.
Little Parakeet Bay, Rottnest Island
Little Parakeet Bay, Rottnest Island
Little Parakeet Bay, Rottnest Island
Parker Point, Rottnest Island
Parker Point, Rottnest Island
Salmon Bay (Eastern Corner), Rottnest Island
FOOD & DRINK
When you are completely covered in salt and sand, it’s usually just one or two more bays before you reach the Hotel Rottnest Bar & Bistro (formerly the Quokka Arms). Relaxing on the patio is the great prize for all your hard work pedalling. Here people gather to talk about their day around the island, while enjoying Australia’s great cold ciders and some fresh hot chips. Don’t be surprised if the resident peacock wanders through the pub and a cute little Quokka runs by your feet.
ISALND INTERVIEW RATING
We dream of retiring to an island paradise, and we love interviewing the candidates! As an Australian A-Class Nature Reserve, you can’t actually live on Rottnest… but you could live in Perth or Fremantle, both very close!
Island Livability Score: Not Eligible
This is a great place to visit for the day, or stay the week for a relaxing vacation in paradise.
Island Dream Vacation Score: 5 / 5
GETTING TO ROTTNEST ISLAND
- Rottnest Express Ferry Service – For quick, comfortable, and convenient access to Rottnest Island from the Perth CBD, Northport (North Fremantle) or B-Shed @ Fremantle, the Rottnest Express Ferry Service is your best bet. From transport to bike rentals and tour bookings, they have you covered. For info and bookings visit www.rottnestexpress.com.au.
- By private boat – Rent or charter a boat with friends for a unique view of Rottnest and its beaches. This is a popular option on holidays like Australia Day where you will be moored among lots of other boats also having a good time.
- By helicopter – For a special occasion, a romantic helicopter ride to Rottnest is sure to impress.
- Stay overnight – Staying overnight is a whole different experience to going for the day. When the last ferry leaves, the pace slows down (even more) and you can enjoy some wine by the beach or a live band at the pub. This is also when all the nocturnal Quokkas come out to play. You can choose to say at Hotel Rottnest in Thompson Bay, or one of the cabins or cottages around the Island. Due to demand, the cabins and cottages require advance planning and can be booked up to 18 months in advance!
SAILS & SPICES TIPS
- Tickets – Save money and time and buy your tickets online at www.rottnestexpress.com.au a couple days ahead of time to get the “Red Hot Deals”.
- Timing – Take the 9:45am ferry there and the 4:25pm ferry back for a relaxed day with lots of time to tour the island.
- Packing – Remember to pack a swim suit, water, sunscreen, hat, sandwich for lunch, beach towel, camera and some money for a cold cider and hot chips at the end of the day. A Subway sandwich and snacks can be picked up at the small shops in Thompson Bay.
- Snorkeling – Bring your mask and snorkel if you want to explore the underwater paradise. Parker Point and Little Salmon Bay have underwater snorkel trails with informative plaques along the seabed.
- Getting around – Riding your bike offers the most flexibility to explore the island, but there is also the option of a air-condition hop-on hop-off bus if this suits you better. While cycling around you will do a big loop of the island. When you get to the Western point there is the option to extend, this side is a little rougher and wilder.
- Essentials Guide – Check out the Rottnest Island website to download the latest essentials guide full of all kinds of helpful information and a map of the island.
LAST WORD
Rottnest was one of my absolute favorite parts of Western Australia. It’s hard to believe that a little island paradise can be just 18k offshore from Perth. I can’t wait to go again soon!
]]>
Salt Cay, Turks & Caicos, is the tiniest, saltiest, donkeyest island we have found!
After a challenging year at work with a relocation and new role, we had one goal: ultimate relaxation. The turquoise waters of the Turks & Caicos Islands beckoned. Not content to settle in with the holiday crowds, we opted to go off the beaten path passing up the popular island of Providenciales (Provo) for Salt Cay and Grand Turk.
Getting to Salt Cay is a multi-day adventure. On advice we stayed one night at Grace Bay on Providenciales (Provo) to pick up fresh groceries and load them up in a cooler bag. One couple we met tried to make the direct connection through Provo and got jammed in the immigration line up, missing their connection… predictably, the last of the evening.
Graceway Gourmet will be a (pricey) must-make stop on Provo. Having most of what you would expect from a community-sized Whole Foods, we recommend packing your bags light from home and filling them up on arrival in Provo. Your puddle jumper to Salt Cay or Grand Turk has luggage weight limits and the shopping options are minimal once you arrive.
The flight to Salt Cay takes around 20 minutes on a tiny single-prop 10-seater plane that touches down on Grand Turk on the way over. Keep your camera handy… The views of the blue, tranquil waters are incredible and may be a trip highlight!
If you’re lucky, as we were, you may even get the co-pilot seat.
~~~~~~~~~~~
VISITING SALT CAY … NEED TO KNOW
OVERVIEW
Salt Cay is an underdeveloped off-the-beaten-path getaway ideal for empty nesters (young or old) looking for quiet diving, snorkeling, or beach relaxation. Expectations of high-end modern amenities will leave you disappointed, but the stunning North Beach makes a few days on this tranquil island most worthwhile.
FOOD & DRINK
There are 3-4 restaurants on the island serving lunch and dinner daily. If you want dinner, you’ll need to let them know your intent to join by around 2:00pm so they can prepare… your visit will no doubt be one of the highlights of their night. Vegetarians will find tasty and authentic Caribbean Rice & Peas at Pat’s.
Several accommodations on the island include kitchens or kitchenettes. If you, like us, don’t fancy Conch three ways and generally want to be in the drivers’ seat for your meals we recommend packing some simple cooking supplies in and being self-sufficient. We enjoyed frequenting the restaurants for a happy hour cocktail and light appetizer.
While we were there we discovered some great recipes. The Bajan Seasoning is a delicious caribbean marinade, the ‘secret-sauce’ of local cuisine. For happy hour, the island’s slow afternoon pace inspired us to mix up the refreshing Coco Loco Cocktail. It’s a must-try whether you’re in the caribbean, or just wishing!
BEACHES
North Beach is the star of the island. Untouched and undeveloped you can walk along it for ages. For maximum beach enjoyment, we recommend staying up there.
Snorkeling is easy and accessible from the leeward side of the island. Walk-in sites are accessible at Lighthouse Point (our favourite), Deane’s Dock, and the “Swimming Pool” near the old government wharf.
Snorkel gear is available for rental from the dive shop, though you may prefer to bring your own and use it as you please.
Stay tuned for our upcoming post on Salt Cay diving!
TO-DO
Relax! If you are in a hurry on Salt Cay, you’re lost…
GETTING AROUND
Your own two feet will be the most reliable, but not the only mode of transport on the island.
Bicycles are available with many accommodations, and may be hired on island.
Golf carts (pricey) are available for rent and are recommended if you are staying several nights up at North Beach, as without it will be a 30 minute walk down a rocky path. Island living is tough on a golf cart, and replacement parts must make the same long journey you did to arrive. Expect your cart to be in well-worn condition.
~~~~~~~~~~~
ISLAND INTERVIEW RATING
We dream of retiring to an island paradise, and we love interviewing the candidates!
For us, Salt Cay lacks the infrastructure to be a long term home. Real Estate prices are a bargain for the caribbean, but existing structures offer only the basics. The gravel airstrip and lack of deep water mooring for a container ship or barge (building supplies) means even the most adventuresome home builders will run into logistics nightmares until the access improves.
Island Livability Score: 2 / 5
That said, Salt Cay, and particular North Beach, is a gorgeous place to get off the grid for a few days and enjoy the sound of the lapping waves, without the crowds that come with a typical built-up destination. We have great memories of riding off into the sunset on our golf cart with a drink for the road, going to explore the island’s views, among the donkeys.
Island Dream Vacation Score: 4 / 5
SAILS & SPICES TIPS
- Humpback Whales – Salt Cay is a perfect escape during the cold winter months. Between January and April you can spot migrating humpback whales, and if you are diving you can hear them underwater!
- Pink Flamingos – Make it a point to try to find the elusive pink flamingos in the salinas before sunset.
LAST WORD
Worth 2-3 days to enjoy North Beach, a good book, and a bit of snorkelling or diving.
]]>