We were on a mission to find the perfect stay in a European wine country. Our dreams of relaxing by the pool, overlooking rows of age-old vines, and getting to know the nuances of their fabulous wines were vivid… we just needed to know where.
Read on to learn how we decided on Portugal’s Douro Valley, and get our travel guide to the best Quintas & places to stay…
Popular films like ‘Under the Tuscan Sun’ and ‘Stealing Beauty’ have created a fairytale of the Tuscan summer dream. The allure has proved infectious, and now over 40 million tourists flock to Italian Tuscany each year to explore the sunbaked landscape and enjoy its world renowned wines. France’s Bordeaux and Champagne are equally famous, and most deserving of their own dedicated and thorough exploration.
These are bucket-list trips to be sure, akin to a wine lover’s pilgrimage, but the savvy traveler will know to pick their dates carefully. During the high season the traditional locales of a European wine-lover’s dream can become both crowded and costly as you compete with all the other visitors chasing the same vision of paradise. These are gorgeous areas, famous for a reason and worth visiting in a lifetime, but there are other jewels still waiting to be discovered.
To the west is a true hidden gem… featuring equally complex yet lesser known old-world wines, served with the most generous of hospitality against a backdrop of incredible landscapes. Holding a prime location on Europe’s far west coast, Portugal delivers all the tenets of the authentic European vineyard dream, and it remains yours to discover.
Gateways to the region, Portugal’s capital Lisbon (a scenic 4 hour drive to the Douro Valley) and Porto (1.5 hours) are each impressive cities in their own right. Both are easily accessible from within Europe or major airport hubs around the world. If you need to mix water with your wine, tie in the Algarve on Portugal’s south coast for some absolutely incredible beaches. You will have yourself a dream holiday!
Famous for its Port, and increasingly recognized for its impeccable and complex table wines, the Douro Valley is a stunning landscape of old stone terrace vineyards built up from the banks of the winding Douro River. The grapevines are planted on steep hills of schist rock and grow under the hot Portuguese sun. The harsh terroir makes the vines struggle to break through the rock, resulting in a lower yield of more flavorful grapes. The harvest is still picked by hand each year as tractors cannot fit on the very narrow terraces, often wide enough for only one row!
A UNESCO World Heritage Site with a rich history, the Douro Valley has been perfecting its wines for the last three hundred years. In fact, it was the world’s first demarcated regulated wine region. This means true Port can only come from the Douro Valley, much like Champagne can only come from Champagne… so do not be fooled by unregulated port-style imposters.
The Douro wine region is made up of three sub-regions. The Upper Corgo is recommended if you are looking to visit a number of excellent wineries, or Quintas, in close proximity.
If you have ever enjoyed a great glass of Port as an aperitif, or to complete a meal with a selection of cheeses, you know the allure of this intensely flavored fortified wine.
Port wines are made from a number of grape varietals, vintages, and blends. To make Port, winemakers add a neutral grape brandy, aguardente, during the fermentation process. This addition stops the fermentation of the natural grape juice sugars and results in the Port wine’s distinct sweetness.
Of course, true Port wine can only be labelled as such if produced entirely of grapes grown in the Douro Valley. The numbered label is a verification of authenticity, and is tightly controlled by the Port Wine Institute. If there is no numbered label, it isn’t Port wine.
The Douro Valley also produces an extensive range of great table wines (Douro Wines) which benefit from the same environment that make the exceptional and flavorful Port. Douro wines are quickly gaining notoriety and can account for 30-50% of the production of many Quintas.
To enjoy a week in Douro nothing is more fitting than staying in a gorgeous family manor where you can relax by the pool while enjoying amazing vineyard views. Each day your biggest choice will be which of the many Quintas nearby you’ll visit, before you finish the evening with a long multi-course dinner paired with local wines and shared conversations among new friends.
Casa Do Visconde De Chaceleiros, near Pinhao, is the perfect accommodation. An impeccable 18th century manor is set amongst beautifully manicured grounds filled with gardens, a pool with a view, tennis court, hot tub, sauna and, of course, a help-yourself bar.
Every evening, out of a magnificent chef’s kitchen, the charming staff serve a three-course meal complete with local wine pairings while you gaze upon the view from the second floor terrace. Vegetarians are generously accommodated with divine home-cooked Portuguese dishes that spare no effort. Dinner reservations are confirmed daily in advance, so if you wish to dine in for dinner on your first night it is best to confirm this when booking your stay. Many, as we did, will choose to dine in each evening.
The Deluxe Room is your choice for the ultimate getaway, though none of the accommodations will disappoint. Separate from the other guest rooms, the deluxe rooms feature two levels, a European queen sized bed, soaker bathtub with a view and a small private patio surrounded by lavender, rosemary, and vineyard views.
If you are in the Douro Valley then wine tasting is no doubt at the top of your to-do list. The vineyard views are stunning, and the selection of Port and Douro Wines is fantastic!
When considering your plans, we do not recommend driving the in Douro Valley if you plan on wine tasting! The roads to many Quintas are extremely steep and winding. Only one lane wide in many areas, and often featuring no guard rails to the valley below, the drive through Douro’s backroads can be quite exhilarating! Instead of going it alone, invest to spend the day with a private driver or a guide. Tastings in Douro are generous and unhurried affairs, so even though they are located seemingly close together, visiting two to three Quintas is rather ambitious for a single day.
Many of the best Quintas absolutely require reservations for tours and tastings. You may be accustomed to wine regions where it is possible to arrive at the tasting room counter at any time during business hours and be served. Since many Quintas are family-run and without large commercial tasting rooms, making a reservation in advance will ensure your experience is tailored for you and most memorable.
To help plan your day of tastings, we’ve included the names of some of the very best luxury wineries & restaurants (as well as the best boat tour) in the area:
On the drive into the Douro Valley
September and October is harvest time in the Douro Valley and this is a great time to visit! Sign up for some truly unique experiences, such as hand picking grapes in the vineyards or pressing them in the winepress. Of course, plenty of incredible table wines and Ports will be on hand to reward your hard work.
How could we talk about the beautiful Douro Valley and its delicious Ports without sharing some pairing tips to enjoy at home?
If you are still considering where to spend your next wine holiday, Portugal’s Douro Valley is a hidden gem that’s been producing excellent wine and ports for centuries. Our time in Douro exceeded every expectation and we could not have been more spoiled by the Portuguese hospitality and generosity. The visit was truly special.
Let us know if you have any questions we can help answer, and if you’ve been to the Douro Valley please leave us a note in the comments with your top tips for our next visit!
If you are planning a trip around Portugal, check out the rest of Sails & Spices Portugal City Guides:
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When Port’s popularity rose with the British in 1700s, regulations were put in place to protect the production of authentic Douro Port. Today, true Port only originates from the Douro Valley, Portugal, much like you can only get Champagne from Champagne, France. There are however many ‘port-style’ wines produced globally. True Ports use a blend of grapes (no mono-varietals), and add a fortifying grape spirit (not brandy) during fermentation. The addition of the grape spirit allows it to be converted to alcohol while sparing the natural sweetness of the Duoro grapes.
We learnt all this and more during a once in a lifetime visit to Portugal’s Douro Valley, a UNESCO World Heritage site. The terraced valley is absolutely stunning to see. Photos simply cannot do it justice, and certainly do little to convey the unforgettable food, wine, and hospitality.
Port wine is served all throughout Portugal, and on one of our first days in Lisbon we were wandering through the city and stumbled upon a lively outdoor market with cheese and meat delicacies, and huge jugs of Port Sangria.
The White Port Sangria was exceptional, a delicate mix of flavors and sweetness while still being refreshing. We each ordered a large cup and asked the host to tell us how we could replicate it for our friends back home!
Nothing beats sightseeing in Lisbon with a cup of fruity Portuguese Sangria. It’s just what you need to cool off and relax before heading off on Tram 15 to Belém to try the famous Pastéis de Belém.
Once you have tried the recipe for yourself, let us know what you think in the comments below!
This is a delicious Sangria made with White Port. It can be made with authentic Portuguese Port, or just Port-style wine. It has a delicate mix of flavors and sweetness while still being refreshing.
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