The iconic champagne houses, including Veuve Clicquot, Tattinger, and Pommery, are situated in the town of Reims. Ruinart is the oldest of the champagne houses, established in 1729, and is known for its blanc de blanc, a pure blend of Chardonnay grapes.

We decided to catch the train in the morning and visit two champagne houses. The trip was easy, we settled into our pre-assigned seats and soon were swaying along the tracks as the train sped through golden fields and open skies.

Once we pulled up to the train station I had read how important it was to quickly get in line at the taxi line up just outside the train station doors. It was true. There was a long line up already when we arrived.

Surrounded by tall stone walls, we pulled into the driveway of Maison Ruinart and were greeted by a friendly guard. All guests booked on a tour have their name on the list, no walk-ins allowed! Luckily, due to our advanced planning, we were invited to enter the gates and join a few fellow couples in the salon, elegantly decorated with renaissance paintings and some comfortable plush sofas.

Our chic french guide greeted us and started our visit by speaking about the history of Ruinart, pointing out the portraits of the founders. It was after Louis XV issued a decree allowing champagne to be distributed by bottles, and not just barrels, that Ruinart’s champagne gained popularity as business gifts to the cloth buyers, distributed through Dom Ruinart’s brother’s network as a cloth merchant.

Our first stop was a room filled with art – a modern tablescape with melting chandeliers by Dutch artist Maarten Baas; one of France’s earliest advertising posters with a woman provocatively showing off her shoulder by Czech illustrator Alphons Mucha; a replica of Louis XV’s commissioned “Le Déjeuner d’Huîtres” oil painting depicting an oyster feast in full swing with many of Ruinart’s recognizable round shaped champagne bottles.

This painting happens to be the first known piece of art to showcase champagne – can you look carefully and figure how they knew it was champagne featured at the party?

Finally someone in our group noticed the cork flying over the table, a telltale sign of the bubbles pressurized into the wine.

Throughout the entire tour our guide’s descriptions were interesting, engaging and thought provoking… she really knew her craft!

At this stage our guide offered the group a warm blanket as the cellars – les crayères – would be quite cold once we dropped 38 feet below ground, to an even temperature of 11-degrees Celsius. It was this attention to detail that really elevated the experience and made us feel taken care of and appreciative of the luxury in this world prestigious champagne house.

Down the steps we went into the cool dark tunnels, lit with a warm glow along the stairwell. Once we reached the lower level we could see through a window into the production facility as they corked each bottle.

Champagne has a two part fermentation process. Once the first fermentation is complete the neck of the bottle is frozen to create an ice plug, trapping the collected lees sediment. The plug is popped out before quickly re-corking the bottle for a second ferment to create those beautiful fine bubbles.

We were led through the dark halls of the cellars where rows and rows of champagne bottles were gently resting. A quiet setting with dim lighting is just what the champagne needs to mature into its wonderful flavor. As we walked deeper into the caves the bottles of champagne grew larger, and the rows grew deeper, grouped by various cuvée.

In one of the main cathedral-like chambers, the champagne bottles rest at an angle in large wooden trestles shapes like an M, where they are rotated or ‘remuaged’ a quarter turn, 2-3 times a day, to help the lees particles slowly make their way into the neck of the bottle. Madame Veuve Clicquot is credited with inventing the riddling rack. Premium cuvée continue to be rotated by hand.

The history of the cellars is fascinating. Originally old chalk quarries, the walls and large dome shaped rooms are all chiseled by hand. During World War I the main Ruinart house was tragically destroyed and so the offices were moved into the cellars, creating an underground bomb shelter where work could continue.

France’s champagne houses have a history of strong women entrepreneurs. In 1919 André Ruinart passed away leaving his widow Charlotte to run the estate. This is a similar tale to that of Madam Veuve Clicquot who had a huge influence on establishing and innovation in the champagne industry (and some say was rumored to have murdered her husband!). There must have been huge competition and drama between the champagne houses, this setting would make an exciting novel I’d like to read.

Finally we emerged into the sunlight and walked back across the grounds taking in the vast and elegant building and its perfectly manicured landscape. We re-gathered in the salon to savor some of the delicate champagne that had been resting in the caves just days prior..

Our host presented us with a choice of blanc de blanc or rosé, with two cuvées to sample. As we sipped, she joined us and described the flavor profiles, taking us through what to look for on the pallet and the subtle differences.

The blanc de blanc is Ruinart’s signature champagne, made entirely from Chardonnay grapes. It glows with a pale golden yellow color and very fine bubbles. The rosé, created since the 18th century, blends Chardonay with the addition of Pinot Noir.

This was a lovely way to experience the champagnes and we discussed as a group what we thought of each one, which we preferred, and where everyones’ travels had taken them. Finally our tour was complete and we couldn’t resist stopping into the store to bring a few bottles home with us, creating a very special memory of our visit to the one and only champagne region.

Sails & Spices Travel Tips

• Getting Around – When arriving at the train station be prepared for a long line up at the taxi stand. We took a taxi to get around and once we were done our tours, called one from the champagne house to get back into the town square where the train station was.
• Lunch – The champagne houses can be quite far apart and it’s a bit of a walk along the main road to get from place to place. We decided to book two tastings and in between it was a challenge finding somewhere for lunch. Next time I would pack a picnic if there isn’t ample time to find a restaurant. Note the main town square has lots of restaurants (although not a ton of vegetarian or vegan options – we settled for a veggie burger).
• Dress – It does get chilly down in the caves and there is a fair bit of walking, so dress accordingly for your comfort.
• Language – We took the tour in French and probably understood 80% of it, but  being immersed in the French language added to the atmosphere and we felt we probably got a better tour in the guide’s native language.
• Book in advance! It’s no surprise the tours book up quickly especially in the summer time. We simply booked online.

Before I arranged this trip I had no idea the champagne region was so close to Paris. It turned out to be a very easy day trip from Paris. We were back in time for dinner and were thrilled to have experienced the Champagne region of France. What an experience!

Enjoying Your Champagne

• Serving – Serve your Champagne cold, between  7 to 10 °C / 45 to 50 °F. Chill your bottle in a bucket of water and ice for 30 minutes, or take your champagne out of a cold fridge for ~10 minutes before serving.
• Storing – For long term storage, champagne prefers a cool and dark location, with a consistent temperature of approximately 55 deg-F . Lay your bottles on their side so the cork doesn’t dry out. Only store your champagne for up to a couple days in a fridge before serving, or chill with ice.
• Pairings – Champagne pairs beautifully with most lighter meals. Brie cheese, strawberries and almonds are all classic pairings. Rich, buttery and salty foods will contrast nicely with the champagne’s light bubbles. Try our Spring Asparagus Risotto to enjoy with your next bottle.
• If you are looking to throw a cheese a wine party – don’t miss our comprehensive guide to The Ultimate Cheese and Wine Pairing Party. 

If you love wine, we would highly recommend a visit to the Champagne region, just outside of Paris.

If you have a little extra time, be sure to drive along country roads through the small villages along the way, stopping and visit the crafts and farmer’s markets. There are gems just waiting to be discovered that can change your perspective of a destination and how you see the world.

Chichen Itza is an expansive collection of Mayan ruins in the Yucatán, Mexico, dating back to 600 A.D. We spent the day exploring this ancient Mayan society.  We could spend hours just walking around the base of the impressive the step pyramid, El Castillo, and appreciating the detailed stone carvings at the Great temple of Warriors. With this much history, having a guide or guidebook can really help you understand the symbolism and significance behind the architecture.

Visiting Chichen Itza is an easy day trip from Cancun and the surrounding areas, but to help make the most of your visit we’ve outlined our top tips to know before you go.

Temple of the Warriors

El Castillo

Getting There

• Set the alarm and head out early! The Chichen Itza ruins open at 8am ~ and is located in the central standard time zone, which is conveniently 1 hour behind Cancun time only half of the year, so double check your time zones.  It’s recommended to be a few minutes early if you really want to beat the crowds. If traveling in a group, once you arrive have one person park while the another gets in line at the ticket booth.
• To give you an idea of the crowds, every year over 1.4 million people visit the Chichen Itza Mayan Ruins; a UNSECO World Heritage site and a New Seven Wonder of the World.
• If you’re driving from Cancun, it’s a two and a half hour (200km / 125mi) drive on the toll highway. From Playa Del Carmen, Chichen Itza is a comparable (180km / 111mi). There are two tolls for a standard car in each direction $67pesos and $267pesos ($632pesos return trip ~ 2017).  Fill up with gas before you go and be sure stay within the speed limits.
  • Sails & Spices Note: There is plenty of highway patrol, so the route is quite safe.  Even so, at dawn and dusk some industrious folks have been known to fake a vehicle breakdown or flat tire to lure in a tourist or two and relieve them of a few dollars.  Don’t bother to stop, local authorities can assist any drivers that have broken down.
• If an early morning wake up call while on vacation isn’t your idea of a good time you can also spend the night near the ruins, like in the bungalows at The Lodge, and take a leisurely 10 minute walk over in the morning.

El Castillo Serpent

El Castillo

Mesoamerican ballgame

What to Bring to Chichen Itza

• Your camera! The ruins make for stunning photos, particularly at sunrise.  Many of Mexico’s top attractions do not allow tripods, monopods, or any “filming” without a government permit.  As long as your camera is handheld, you’ll be fine. 
• Chichen Itza is a sprawling site with limited shade.  On a sunny day remember to bring lots of water, your hat, and sunscreen!  There aren’t any hills to climb, but as the site is large it’s best to wear some good walking shoes.
• There is so much history behind the ruins that having a guidebook or hiring a guide will help paint a vivid picture of the ancient city.  Guides may be hired at the front entrance though prices will vary.
• On site vendors sell all manners of high quality artisan souvenirs including masks, pottery and jewelry so bring cash if you want bring some handmade crafts back with you.  An ATM is located just outside the main gate.

Nearby Attractions

After a day of walking in the hot sun, stop for a refreshing swim at one of the nearby cenotes on the way back to your hotel.  Two recommendations are Cenote Il Kil or Cenote Samula, and both are on the google map below.

Continue Exploring Mexico’s Tastes and Sites

Explore more of Mexico’s great culture!  Catch a sunrise at the incredible sea-side ruins of Tulum, explore local Mexican cuisine at the Ritz-Carlton Culinary Center, or reminisce on a trip for your taste buds with one of our favorite Mexican recipes:

• Visiting The Ancient Ruins of Tulum
• The Ritz-Carlton Cancun’s Culinary Center 
• Vegan Ceviche Recipe
• Squash Tacos with Homemade Tortillas Recipe

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Quinta Nova

We were on a mission to find the perfect stay in a European wine country.  Our dreams of relaxing by the pool, overlooking rows of age-old vines, and getting to know the nuances of their fabulous wines were vivid… we just needed to know where.

Read on to learn how we decided on Portugal’s Douro Valley, and get our travel guide to the best Quintas & places to stay…

Casa Do Visconde De Chaceleiros

The European Wine Experience

Popular films like ‘Under the Tuscan Sun’ and ‘Stealing Beauty’ have created a fairytale of the Tuscan summer dream. The allure has proved infectious, and now over 40 million tourists flock to Italian Tuscany each year to explore the sunbaked landscape and enjoy its world renowned wines. France’s Bordeaux and Champagne are equally famous, and most deserving of their own dedicated and thorough exploration.

These are bucket-list trips to be sure, akin to a wine lover’s pilgrimage, but the savvy traveler will know to pick their dates carefully.   During the high season the traditional locales of a European wine-lover’s dream can become both crowded and costly as you compete with all the other visitors chasing the same vision of paradise. These are gorgeous areas, famous for a reason and worth visiting in a lifetime, but there are other jewels still waiting to be discovered.

To the west is a true hidden gem… featuring equally complex yet lesser known old-world wines, served with the most generous of hospitality against a backdrop of incredible landscapes. Holding a prime location on Europe’s far west coast, Portugal delivers all the tenets of the authentic European vineyard dream, and it remains yours to discover.

Gateways to the region, Portugal’s capital Lisbon (a scenic 4 hour drive to the Douro Valley) and Porto (1.5 hours) are each impressive cities in their own right.  Both are easily accessible from within Europe or major airport hubs around the world.  If you need to mix water with your wine, tie in the Algarve on Portugal’s south coast for some absolutely incredible beaches.  You will have yourself a dream holiday!

The Douro Valley

Famous for its Port, and increasingly recognized for its impeccable and complex table wines, the Douro Valley is a stunning landscape of old stone terrace vineyards built up from the banks of the winding Douro River. The grapevines are planted on steep hills of schist rock and grow under the hot Portuguese sun. The harsh terroir makes the vines struggle to break through the rock, resulting in a lower yield of more flavorful grapes. The harvest is still picked by hand each year as tractors cannot fit on the very narrow terraces, often wide enough for only one row!

A UNESCO World Heritage Site with a rich history, the Douro Valley has been perfecting its wines for the last three hundred years. In fact, it was the world’s first demarcated regulated wine region. This means true Port can only come from the Douro Valley, much like Champagne can only come from Champagne… so do not be fooled by unregulated port-style imposters.

The Douro wine region is made up of three sub-regions. The Upper Corgo is recommended if you are looking to visit a number of excellent wineries, or Quintas, in close proximity.

• Baixo Corgo (Lower Corgo) | The smallest region, producing early maturing, inexpensive ruby and tawny ports.
• Cima Corgo (Upper Corgo) | The largest region, centered by the town of Pinhao, featuring famous vineyards with many excellent ports.
• Douro Superior (Upper Douro or New Douro) | The least accessible region, with only a few wineries but some of the finest ports.

Port Wines

If you have ever enjoyed a great glass of Port as an aperitif, or to complete a meal with a selection of cheeses, you know the allure of this intensely flavored fortified wine.

Port wines are made from a number of grape varietals, vintages, and blends. To make Port, winemakers add a neutral grape brandy, aguardente, during the fermentation process.  This addition stops the fermentation of the natural grape juice sugars and results in the Port wine’s distinct sweetness.

• White Port | Lightly golden, made from white grapes primarily from the upper slopes. Fruity and full-bodied. Aged for 2-3 years and can be dry or semi-sweet.
• Ruby Port | Beautiful ruby red color with strong notes of fresh fruit. Youthful, approachable and versatile with firm tannins. Aged no more than 3 years in barrels, ready to drink young.
• Aged Tawny Port | Amber or garnet in color. Rich and mellow with nutty and caramel flavors. Made from multiple vintages. Aged 3 years in smaller barrels where some oxidization can occur, then casked and aged for 10, 20 or 30+ years before being blended and bottled.
• Late-Bottled Vintage Ports or Reserve Port | Deep red color. A complex berry or plum taste. Single year vintage, aged 4-6 years in barrels.
• Vintage Port | Dark ruby color. Premium and complex, with character. Made from a blend of the finest grapes within a vintage year. Vintage years are only declared by the Port Wine Institute for outstanding regional harvests, typically every 3 out of 10 years. Aged 2 years in barrels, and 20-50 years in bottle.

Of course, true Port wine can only be labelled as such if produced entirely of grapes grown in the Douro Valley.  The numbered label is a verification of authenticity, and is tightly controlled by the Port Wine Institute.  If there is no numbered label, it isn’t Port wine.

The Douro Valley also produces an extensive range of great table wines (Douro Wines) which benefit from the same environment that make the exceptional and flavorful Port.  Douro wines are quickly gaining notoriety and can account for 30-50% of the production of many Quintas.

Where to stay in the Douro Valley

To enjoy a week in Douro nothing is more fitting than staying in a gorgeous family manor where you can relax by the pool while enjoying amazing vineyard views. Each day your biggest choice will be which of the many Quintas nearby you’ll visit, before you finish the evening with a long multi-course dinner paired with local wines and shared conversations among new friends.

Casa Do Visconde De Chaceleiros

Casa Do Visconde De Chaceleiros, near Pinhao, is the perfect accommodation. An impeccable 18^th century manor is set amongst beautifully manicured grounds filled with gardens, a pool with a view, tennis court, hot tub, sauna and, of course, a help-yourself bar.

Every evening, out of a magnificent chef’s kitchen, the charming staff serve a three-course meal complete with local wine pairings while you gaze upon the view from the second floor terrace. Vegetarians are generously accommodated with divine home-cooked Portuguese dishes that spare no effort. Dinner reservations are confirmed daily in advance, so if you wish to dine in for dinner on your first night it is best to confirm this when booking your stay.  Many, as we did, will choose to dine in each evening.

The Deluxe Room is your choice for the ultimate getaway, though none of the accommodations will disappoint. Separate from the other guest rooms, the deluxe rooms feature two levels, a European queen sized bed, soaker bathtub with a view and a small private patio surrounded by lavender, rosemary, and vineyard views.

A Day of Wine Tasting

If you are in the Douro Valley then wine tasting is no doubt at the top of your to-do list. The vineyard views are stunning, and the selection of Port and Douro Wines is fantastic!

When considering your plans, we do not recommend driving the in Douro Valley if you plan on wine tasting! The roads to many Quintas are extremely steep and winding. Only one lane wide in many areas, and often featuring no guard rails to the valley below, the drive through Douro’s backroads can be quite exhilarating!  Instead of going it alone, invest to spend the day with a private driver or a guide. Tastings in Douro are generous and unhurried affairs, so even though they are located seemingly close together, visiting two to three Quintas is rather ambitious for a single day.

Many of the best Quintas absolutely require reservations for tours and tastings. You may be accustomed to wine regions where it is possible to arrive at the tasting room counter at any time during business hours and be served.  Since many Quintas are family-run and without large commercial tasting rooms, making a reservation in advance will ensure your experience is tailored for you and most memorable.

Where to visit in the Douro Valley

To help plan your day of tastings, we’ve included the names of some of the very best luxury wineries & restaurants (as well as the best boat tour) in the area:

• Rabelo Boat Tour (Tour) | Rabelo boats are the traditional vessels historically used to take the barrels of Port down the river from the Douro Valley to the city of Porto, where they are cellar aged. Short tours up the river are available from Pinhao with Magnifico Douro. Tours leave from the Magnifico Douro pier in front of the Vintage House hotel, and cost 10€ cash per person (2016).
• Quinta do Crasto | An incredible location for the most luxurious lunch with wine pairings. This was one of our favorites with its beautiful setting, delicious vegetarian food, and exceptional wines. Not only specializing in wines, Quinta do Crasto also grow their own incredible almonds and olives on site. Be sure to leave enough time during your visit to enjoy the impressive views from the turquoise pool, one of the best in the valley.
• Quinta Nova | Fantastic wine and port tastings, with three tasting experiences to choose from (24€-74€, 2016). The Quinta has a lovely view, and offers an onsite hotel and pool (for guests). Take advantage of the winery tour, sunset tasting served with appetizers, or a luxurious 3-course vegetarian meal.
• Quinta do Panascal | A small winery specializing in Port wines, with optional ‘reserve tastings’. Owned by the Fonseca brand which is internationally recognized for excellent Ports. For 7€ (2016) you can take the independent guided audio tour through the vineyards and enjoy three Port samples. It can get very hot in the summer, so good footwear and a hat is recommended.
• Quinta do Seixo | Sandeman’s award-winning winery offers tours of the impressive production facilities and welcomes thousands of visitors each year. Choose between tours like the Vau Vintage Tour where you can learn about the history of the winery and sample 5 wines in a private setting (€ 16.00 in 2016) or go on the Wineyard Tour and take a guided walk through the vineyard, learning about the 100-year old grapes and the unique terainne of the Douro Valley  (€ 18.00 in 2016)
• Quinta do Popa | A small family run vineyard that comes well recommended. This vineyard is special because of the beautiful picnic baskets they offer that you can take out and enjoy in the vineyard with some wine and a nice view. This Quinta also offers beautiful lunch or brunch experiences with wine tasting. Bookings are essential for tastings and experiences.
• DOC (Restaurant) | A luxury high-end restaurant with the choice of elegant dishes or a chef’s tasting menu with wine pairings, located in a beautiful setting next to the river.

On the drive into the Douro Valley 

• Quinta da Pacheca – This is one of the oldest wineries in the region and still family run. Make a reservation to take one of the informative tours to learn the history of the estate, visit the cellars, and taste the selection of wines. There is a boutique hotel on the property and some vegetarian options available in the restaurant.
• Six Senses Douro Valley (Hotel) | A luxury hotel suited for an outstanding stay. This unique property offers an organic garden, swimming pools, great views, spa, and an exquisite chef’s tasting experience.

An elegant lunch at Quinta do Crasto

One of the best infinity pools in the valley – Quinta do Crasto

September and October is harvest time in the Douro Valley and this is a great time to visit! Sign up for some truly unique experiences, such as hand picking grapes in the vineyards or pressing them in the winepress.  Of course, plenty of incredible table wines and Ports will be on hand to reward your hard work.

Sails & Spices Port Pairing Tips

How could we talk about the beautiful Douro Valley and its delicious Ports without sharing some pairing tips to enjoy at home?

• White Port | Enjoy as an aperitif before dinner, mix with tonic and a sprig of mint for a refreshing summer cocktail, or try a fresh take on sangria with Portuguese White Port Sangria.
• Ruby Port or Late-Bottled Vintage Ports | Beautiful after dinner with berry deserts, complimenting with strong notes of fresh berry flavors. Excellent with a rich dark chocolate mousse or homemade brownie.
• Aged Tawny Port | Bring out the Tawny Port’s caramel and toasted nut flavors with cheeses, toasted nuts, spiced apple pie and vanilla ice-cream, or a caramelized crème brûlée.
• Vintage Port | The finest of all, a Vintage Port has the complexity of flavors and distinction to be savored alone. It may be traditionally paired with Stilton cheese, salted walnuts, or chestnuts and dark chocolate.

Final Words

If you are still considering where to spend your next wine holiday, Portugal’s Douro Valley is a hidden gem that’s been producing excellent wine and ports for centuries. Our time in Douro exceeded every expectation and we could not have been more spoiled by the Portuguese hospitality and generosity.  The visit was truly special.

Let us know if you have any questions we can help answer, and if you’ve been to the Douro Valley please leave us a note in the comments with your top tips for our next visit!

Portugal City Guides

If you are planning a trip around Portugal, check out the rest of Sails & Spices Portugal City Guides:

• A Romantic Weekend in Porto
• Sipping Ginja in Obidos
• Lisbon City Guide
• Pena Palace in Sintra
• Pastries and Parapetes in Belem
• A Vegetarian Guide to Lagos 

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