The iconic champagne houses, including Veuve Clicquot, Tattinger, and Pommery, are situated in the town of Reims. Ruinart is the oldest of the champagne houses, established in 1729, and is known for its blanc de blanc, a pure blend of Chardonnay grapes.
We decided to catch the train in the morning and visit two champagne houses. The trip was easy, we settled into our pre-assigned seats and soon were swaying along the tracks as the train sped through golden fields and open skies.
Once we pulled up to the train station I had read how important it was to quickly get in line at the taxi line up just outside the train station doors. It was true. There was a long line up already when we arrived.
Surrounded by tall stone walls, we pulled into the driveway of Maison Ruinart and were greeted by a friendly guard. All guests booked on a tour have their name on the list, no walk-ins allowed! Luckily, due to our advanced planning, we were invited to enter the gates and join a few fellow couples in the salon, elegantly decorated with renaissance paintings and some comfortable plush sofas.
Our chic french guide greeted us and started our visit by speaking about the history of Ruinart, pointing out the portraits of the founders. It was after Louis XV issued a decree allowing champagne to be distributed by bottles, and not just barrels, that Ruinart’s champagne gained popularity as business gifts to the cloth buyers, distributed through Dom Ruinart’s brother’s network as a cloth merchant.
Our first stop was a room filled with art – a modern tablescape with melting chandeliers by Dutch artist Maarten Baas; one of France’s earliest advertising posters with a woman provocatively showing off her shoulder by Czech illustrator Alphons Mucha; a replica of Louis XV’s commissioned “Le Déjeuner d’Huîtres” oil painting depicting an oyster feast in full swing with many of Ruinart’s recognizable round shaped champagne bottles.
This painting happens to be the first known piece of art to showcase champagne – can you look carefully and figure how they knew it was champagne featured at the party?
Finally someone in our group noticed the cork flying over the table, a telltale sign of the bubbles pressurized into the wine.
Throughout the entire tour our guide’s descriptions were interesting, engaging and thought provoking… she really knew her craft!
At this stage our guide offered the group a warm blanket as the cellars – les crayères – would be quite cold once we dropped 38 feet below ground, to an even temperature of 11-degrees Celsius. It was this attention to detail that really elevated the experience and made us feel taken care of and appreciative of the luxury in this world prestigious champagne house.
Down the steps we went into the cool dark tunnels, lit with a warm glow along the stairwell. Once we reached the lower level we could see through a window into the production facility as they corked each bottle.
Champagne has a two part fermentation process. Once the first fermentation is complete the neck of the bottle is frozen to create an ice plug, trapping the collected lees sediment. The plug is popped out before quickly re-corking the bottle for a second ferment to create those beautiful fine bubbles.
We were led through the dark halls of the cellars where rows and rows of champagne bottles were gently resting. A quiet setting with dim lighting is just what the champagne needs to mature into its wonderful flavor. As we walked deeper into the caves the bottles of champagne grew larger, and the rows grew deeper, grouped by various cuvée.
In one of the main cathedral-like chambers, the champagne bottles rest at an angle in large wooden trestles shapes like an M, where they are rotated or ‘remuaged’ a quarter turn, 2-3 times a day, to help the lees particles slowly make their way into the neck of the bottle. Madame Veuve Clicquot is credited with inventing the riddling rack. Premium cuvée continue to be rotated by hand.
The history of the cellars is fascinating. Originally old chalk quarries, the walls and large dome shaped rooms are all chiseled by hand. During World War I the main Ruinart house was tragically destroyed and so the offices were moved into the cellars, creating an underground bomb shelter where work could continue.
France’s champagne houses have a history of strong women entrepreneurs. In 1919 André Ruinart passed away leaving his widow Charlotte to run the estate. This is a similar tale to that of Madam Veuve Clicquot who had a huge influence on establishing and innovation in the champagne industry (and some say was rumored to have murdered her husband!). There must have been huge competition and drama between the champagne houses, this setting would make an exciting novel I’d like to read.
Finally we emerged into the sunlight and walked back across the grounds taking in the vast and elegant building and its perfectly manicured landscape. We re-gathered in the salon to savor some of the delicate champagne that had been resting in the caves just days prior..
Our host presented us with a choice of blanc de blanc or rosé, with two cuvées to sample. As we sipped, she joined us and described the flavor profiles, taking us through what to look for on the pallet and the subtle differences.
The blanc de blanc is Ruinart’s signature champagne, made entirely from Chardonnay grapes. It glows with a pale golden yellow color and very fine bubbles. The rosé, created since the 18th century, blends Chardonay with the addition of Pinot Noir.
This was a lovely way to experience the champagnes and we discussed as a group what we thought of each one, which we preferred, and where everyones’ travels had taken them. Finally our tour was complete and we couldn’t resist stopping into the store to bring a few bottles home with us, creating a very special memory of our visit to the one and only champagne region.
Before I arranged this trip I had no idea the champagne region was so close to Paris. It turned out to be a very easy day trip from Paris. We were back in time for dinner and were thrilled to have experienced the Champagne region of France. What an experience!
If you love wine, we would highly recommend a visit to the Champagne region, just outside of Paris.
]]>This exciting two week itinerary in Portugal will have you relaxing on magnificent beaches, sightseeing medieval cities, exploring quaint towns, and reveling in old world wines paired to plant-based cuisine. Hire a car for the gorgeous coastal roads and start the adventure through one of Europe’s best kept secrets.
Your Portugal getaway awaits,
Boa viagem!
A charming and lively beach town on the Algarve Coast, Lagos is popular with students and tourists drawn to the dramatic coastal caves and secluded beaches. The perfect place to start the trip and rest on the beach to get into vacation mode.
Stay: Pick an AirBnB rental in the center of the old town.
Read Your Complete Vegetarian Guide to Lagos
Get out on foot with your camera and explore this lovely city of neighborhoods, bringing together a collection of wine and tapas bars tucked among historic buildings on old cobbled streets.
Stay: Fontecruz Lisboa, Autograph Collection
Read Your Complete Guide to Lisbon City
Just a quick 20 minute tram ride from Lisbon, Belem is a charming seaside destination with stunning architecture and delicious local pastries that the crowds come flocking for. Cafes selling various Pasteis de Belem can be found all over Portugal but the original flakey custard pastries hail from a small cafe in Belem, where the recipe has been kept top secret since 1837!
Day Trip: Ride Tram 15 to Belem and delight in the original Pasteis de Belem.
Read Your Complete Guide to Belem
A short day trip from Lisbon, this fairy tale land feels miles away. A crumbling stone Moorish Castle counterbalances the over-the-top and whimsical Pena Palace set atop the hills within a vast 200 hectare forest.
Day Trip: Visit the beautiful Pena Palace
Read Your Complete Guide to Pena Palace in Sintra
Porto’s magnetism pulls at you with its old world charm. Gorgeous architecture transforms simple bookstores, cafes, churches and train stations into marvels just waiting to be discovered. In Nova de Gaia, large wooden barrels of Port wine float down the river on old Rabelo boats. They arrive from the nearby Douro Valley to be cellared for years (if not decades) before being enjoyed in one of Porto’s many wine lodges.
Stay in Style: InterContinental Porto – Palacio das Cardosas
Read Your Complete Guide to Porto City
The entire route is approximately 12-14 hours of drive time from Lagos to Porto. It’s worth it to take the scenic route up the west coast from Lisbon. Stop along the way at the dramatic Arrifana beach, in Aljezur to explore a tenth century castle, see the expansive curved beach in Odeceixe, and visit the brightly painted town of Porto Covo.
Based from Lisbon you can visit Belem, Sintra, the Boca do Inferno in Cascais, and even Comporta as great day trips. Obidos is charming stopover on the way to the Douro Valley and Porto, where the dramatic scenery really shines… just when it seemed the trip couldn’t get any better!
Portugal is a remarkable european destination, benefiting from warm and friendly locals truly happy to share their charming towns with culture-seeking travelers.
Let us know in the comments if you are researching a trip to Portugal, we would love to hear about your plans!
If you’ve already checked it off your travel wish list, what part of Portugal did you enjoy most?
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We were on a mission to find the perfect stay in a European wine country. Our dreams of relaxing by the pool, overlooking rows of age-old vines, and getting to know the nuances of their fabulous wines were vivid… we just needed to know where.
Read on to learn how we decided on Portugal’s Douro Valley, and get our travel guide to the best Quintas & places to stay…
Popular films like ‘Under the Tuscan Sun’ and ‘Stealing Beauty’ have created a fairytale of the Tuscan summer dream. The allure has proved infectious, and now over 40 million tourists flock to Italian Tuscany each year to explore the sunbaked landscape and enjoy its world renowned wines. France’s Bordeaux and Champagne are equally famous, and most deserving of their own dedicated and thorough exploration.
These are bucket-list trips to be sure, akin to a wine lover’s pilgrimage, but the savvy traveler will know to pick their dates carefully. During the high season the traditional locales of a European wine-lover’s dream can become both crowded and costly as you compete with all the other visitors chasing the same vision of paradise. These are gorgeous areas, famous for a reason and worth visiting in a lifetime, but there are other jewels still waiting to be discovered.
To the west is a true hidden gem… featuring equally complex yet lesser known old-world wines, served with the most generous of hospitality against a backdrop of incredible landscapes. Holding a prime location on Europe’s far west coast, Portugal delivers all the tenets of the authentic European vineyard dream, and it remains yours to discover.
Gateways to the region, Portugal’s capital Lisbon (a scenic 4 hour drive to the Douro Valley) and Porto (1.5 hours) are each impressive cities in their own right. Both are easily accessible from within Europe or major airport hubs around the world. If you need to mix water with your wine, tie in the Algarve on Portugal’s south coast for some absolutely incredible beaches. You will have yourself a dream holiday!
Famous for its Port, and increasingly recognized for its impeccable and complex table wines, the Douro Valley is a stunning landscape of old stone terrace vineyards built up from the banks of the winding Douro River. The grapevines are planted on steep hills of schist rock and grow under the hot Portuguese sun. The harsh terroir makes the vines struggle to break through the rock, resulting in a lower yield of more flavorful grapes. The harvest is still picked by hand each year as tractors cannot fit on the very narrow terraces, often wide enough for only one row!
A UNESCO World Heritage Site with a rich history, the Douro Valley has been perfecting its wines for the last three hundred years. In fact, it was the world’s first demarcated regulated wine region. This means true Port can only come from the Douro Valley, much like Champagne can only come from Champagne… so do not be fooled by unregulated port-style imposters.
The Douro wine region is made up of three sub-regions. The Upper Corgo is recommended if you are looking to visit a number of excellent wineries, or Quintas, in close proximity.
If you have ever enjoyed a great glass of Port as an aperitif, or to complete a meal with a selection of cheeses, you know the allure of this intensely flavored fortified wine.
Port wines are made from a number of grape varietals, vintages, and blends. To make Port, winemakers add a neutral grape brandy, aguardente, during the fermentation process. This addition stops the fermentation of the natural grape juice sugars and results in the Port wine’s distinct sweetness.
Of course, true Port wine can only be labelled as such if produced entirely of grapes grown in the Douro Valley. The numbered label is a verification of authenticity, and is tightly controlled by the Port Wine Institute. If there is no numbered label, it isn’t Port wine.
The Douro Valley also produces an extensive range of great table wines (Douro Wines) which benefit from the same environment that make the exceptional and flavorful Port. Douro wines are quickly gaining notoriety and can account for 30-50% of the production of many Quintas.
To enjoy a week in Douro nothing is more fitting than staying in a gorgeous family manor where you can relax by the pool while enjoying amazing vineyard views. Each day your biggest choice will be which of the many Quintas nearby you’ll visit, before you finish the evening with a long multi-course dinner paired with local wines and shared conversations among new friends.
Casa Do Visconde De Chaceleiros, near Pinhao, is the perfect accommodation. An impeccable 18th century manor is set amongst beautifully manicured grounds filled with gardens, a pool with a view, tennis court, hot tub, sauna and, of course, a help-yourself bar.
Every evening, out of a magnificent chef’s kitchen, the charming staff serve a three-course meal complete with local wine pairings while you gaze upon the view from the second floor terrace. Vegetarians are generously accommodated with divine home-cooked Portuguese dishes that spare no effort. Dinner reservations are confirmed daily in advance, so if you wish to dine in for dinner on your first night it is best to confirm this when booking your stay. Many, as we did, will choose to dine in each evening.
The Deluxe Room is your choice for the ultimate getaway, though none of the accommodations will disappoint. Separate from the other guest rooms, the deluxe rooms feature two levels, a European queen sized bed, soaker bathtub with a view and a small private patio surrounded by lavender, rosemary, and vineyard views.
If you are in the Douro Valley then wine tasting is no doubt at the top of your to-do list. The vineyard views are stunning, and the selection of Port and Douro Wines is fantastic!
When considering your plans, we do not recommend driving the in Douro Valley if you plan on wine tasting! The roads to many Quintas are extremely steep and winding. Only one lane wide in many areas, and often featuring no guard rails to the valley below, the drive through Douro’s backroads can be quite exhilarating! Instead of going it alone, invest to spend the day with a private driver or a guide. Tastings in Douro are generous and unhurried affairs, so even though they are located seemingly close together, visiting two to three Quintas is rather ambitious for a single day.
Many of the best Quintas absolutely require reservations for tours and tastings. You may be accustomed to wine regions where it is possible to arrive at the tasting room counter at any time during business hours and be served. Since many Quintas are family-run and without large commercial tasting rooms, making a reservation in advance will ensure your experience is tailored for you and most memorable.
To help plan your day of tastings, we’ve included the names of some of the very best luxury wineries & restaurants (as well as the best boat tour) in the area:
On the drive into the Douro Valley
September and October is harvest time in the Douro Valley and this is a great time to visit! Sign up for some truly unique experiences, such as hand picking grapes in the vineyards or pressing them in the winepress. Of course, plenty of incredible table wines and Ports will be on hand to reward your hard work.
How could we talk about the beautiful Douro Valley and its delicious Ports without sharing some pairing tips to enjoy at home?
If you are still considering where to spend your next wine holiday, Portugal’s Douro Valley is a hidden gem that’s been producing excellent wine and ports for centuries. Our time in Douro exceeded every expectation and we could not have been more spoiled by the Portuguese hospitality and generosity. The visit was truly special.
Let us know if you have any questions we can help answer, and if you’ve been to the Douro Valley please leave us a note in the comments with your top tips for our next visit!
If you are planning a trip around Portugal, check out the rest of Sails & Spices Portugal City Guides:
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When Port’s popularity rose with the British in 1700s, regulations were put in place to protect the production of authentic Douro Port. Today, true Port only originates from the Douro Valley, Portugal, much like you can only get Champagne from Champagne, France. There are however many ‘port-style’ wines produced globally. True Ports use a blend of grapes (no mono-varietals), and add a fortifying grape spirit (not brandy) during fermentation. The addition of the grape spirit allows it to be converted to alcohol while sparing the natural sweetness of the Duoro grapes.
We learnt all this and more during a once in a lifetime visit to Portugal’s Douro Valley, a UNESCO World Heritage site. The terraced valley is absolutely stunning to see. Photos simply cannot do it justice, and certainly do little to convey the unforgettable food, wine, and hospitality.
Port wine is served all throughout Portugal, and on one of our first days in Lisbon we were wandering through the city and stumbled upon a lively outdoor market with cheese and meat delicacies, and huge jugs of Port Sangria.
The White Port Sangria was exceptional, a delicate mix of flavors and sweetness while still being refreshing. We each ordered a large cup and asked the host to tell us how we could replicate it for our friends back home!
Nothing beats sightseeing in Lisbon with a cup of fruity Portuguese Sangria. It’s just what you need to cool off and relax before heading off on Tram 15 to Belém to try the famous Pastéis de Belém.
Once you have tried the recipe for yourself, let us know what you think in the comments below!
This is a delicious Sangria made with White Port. It can be made with authentic Portuguese Port, or just Port-style wine. It has a delicate mix of flavors and sweetness while still being refreshing.
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Here are some helpful tips on how to plan the ultimate cheese and wine party, including how to make your own beautiful chalk table runner.
CHOOSING YOUR CHEESES
Choose anywhere from 2-5 cheeses. You want variety while being able to enjoy each one. Aim for a selection of:
Consider the type of milk the cheese is made from and opt for a selection from cow, goat, and sheep’s milk. For vegan cheese lovers, a soft nut cheese will pair similarly to Chèvre, and is a great conversation starter!
As an appetizer, plan on 2 ounces of cheese per person. As a main course, plan closer to 4 ounces per person. One ounce of cheese is the size of two dice, and there are 16 ounces in a pound.
FOOD PAIRINGS
Serve the cheese with some fresh bread like a sliced crusty baguette and your favorite crackers. There are many great gluten-free crackers these days, and are great to include.
Include accompaniments of fresh or dried fruit, nuts and pickles, as well as a spread (like a fruit preserve or honey) to add interest to your pairings:
SETTING THE TABLE
Plates, wooden boards, and slate boards are all great ways to serve your cheese. Arrange your cheeses from mild to strong, and give each cheese it’s own knife. You don’t want a nice mild Brie mingling with the strong blue cheese.
To create a ‘chalk board’ table runner you’ll need black construction paper and liquid chalk or gold pens. Write large headings for the wines and cheeses, and use arrows and notes to describe the flavor profiles and point to the best pairings. It can be helpful to map everything out first if you are planning multiple pairings, and will ease your day of party setup.
DRINK PAIRINGS
Cheeses pair really well with all sorts of beverages from wines, beers, and spirits. Feel free to choose your favorites! As inspiration, here are some of the classic pairings to try:
It’s always helpful to have an idea of how much you’ll need… these formulas provide a rough guide to help you decide. Of course, this will depend a lot on how much your guests like to drink! If you are buying from the liquor store you can often return un-opened bottles.
Remember to include some flavored water to hydrate, your guests will thank you for it in the morning!
Our wine & cheese party was a smashing success, and the best part is the principles can be scaled-down for a casual Friday get-together, or scaled-up for a full reception for 100+.
My favorite cheese pairing is brie with strawberries and spicy honey, with a glass of champagne. What are yours?
Share your tips on the perfect wine & cheese pairings or party planning essentials with us below.
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